Joe I feel the same way, I am sticking with what I have seen work for years on our motors, why change now if I haven't had any issues



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:Joe I feel the same way, I am sticking with what I have seen work for years on our motors, why change now if I haven't had any issues

I think more or less it boils down to "if you have a restrictor use it as there is no harm in doing so". "If you don't have one then you will be fine" (It's very important to note that this is for this application specifically i.e. Eco). For any other applications just simply confirm the pressures under the conditions you plan to expose it to and make accommodations as they present themselves (i.e. restrictor).



ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

^^ Hey man what size restrictor would be best if I had a journal bearing and running off one of the oil gallies in the back?


ECOtec DOHC

SLRdohc wrote:^^ Hey man what size restrictor would be best if I had a journal bearing and running off one of the oil gallies in the back?

What turbo are you running?

Most all your journal bearing turbos I would recommend .065" to include some of your larger BB turbos and then you could use a .035" for most of your smaller BB turbos. I have not physically tested the pressures on the right side of the motor (rear looking into the engine bay under exhaust manifold) but I have to assume the pressures are similar to the left balance shaft as the gallies that I believe your referring to are the right balance shaft gallies. Those pressures hover pretty steady at 90-100 psi under normal highway speeds so certainly restrictor worthy.

Regardless all the oil gallies on the Eco are M12x1.75 thread pitch so if you do route off any of them be sure to pick the adapter up. I believe the autometer P/N off the top of my head is 2278 which goes to a female 1/8th" NPT which nearly all the restrictors are that size. As for the feed oil line a -4 SS line will suffice and then a -10 drain (I personally use press-on AN high pressure/high temp line sheathed in a heat jacket for the drain).



ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

thanks. I was running a 20g. Now a .50 trim JB. My original feed was from the filter housing. I want to make the engine bay cleaner. So thats why I'm using one of the gallies in the back. I already have that adapter. I just have to move it from feed to new feed. Now time to get new fuel lines and fittings. FUN!!!


ECOtec DOHC

Bumping this back up since im getting mine rebuilt....

Just got off the phone with turbo power.... very smart guys for sure. basically what i found out is we are screwed on pressure ports the one on the side of the head is too low since it settles out to about 15-20psi. its great on cold start but suffers once warm. the front port is too high and during normal daily driving is flowing too much.

SOLUTION: Use the front port and restrict it right before the turbo to get optimal 60psi when idle, cruising, under load for ALL their journal bearing turbo's. thats the numbers they aim for every time if they can help it.

he said the 2 problems you run into with a turbo to wreck it is, pressure in, and ability to drain. which the way he explained it was perfect sense. if your feed is too long you lose static pressure. so my plan is to run off the front port, and restrict it right at the turbo so i can get the target 60psi.


waiting to hear back from him tomorrow on billet wheel availability. cant wait for this rebuild and a fully functioning turbo.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, December 27, 2010 4:13 PM

I use the rear head port...

no problems

All of the information on this thread is useful.

For what it's worth, and I say this not to take exception with anyone here, just to add to the info:

We've used the head ports for oil to our J-body turbosystems for some time now, without apparent issues. Yes, the pressure is lower than what would be considered optimal. However, pressure is but one factor in this equation, and there are many others. I believe one reason we've "gotten away with it" is that the Ecotec has a wonderfully effective engine oiling system, with an extremely well-designed oil sump and pickup that creates very high-quality, non-aerated lubrication. Further, oil windage control in the crankcase, along with its breather system, are top-notch. Compared to engines with less effective oiling systems, these items can be what's making the difference for us with Ecotec.

That being said, VInce's current approach may well the the best way to go with a high-boost, high-effort big journal bearing turbo that will require more, shall we say, "careful" lubrication than we enjoy with our smaller Mitsubishi Super 16 and 20G turbos that are fairly lube-tolerant and typically not pushed as hard.

Good thread.



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Awesome read. Thanks!

As for my 2200, for reference, cruising at 65, approx 2400 rpm 5th gear, 198 degrees oil temp, it was 40 psi at the sending unit port. Perfect for turbo feed.





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NCR-SCCA