those look nice... how much did they cost and where did you have them made?
Hello Vinny, the build is coming along great, congrats! about what is your HP range your shooting for?
When all is said and done ill be happy with around 280-290whp and 275tq. Originally i wanted 280 at the crank but i went deeper into the build than originally planned. Plan on 18-20 psi, garrett super 60 turbo with an RD Fabs set-up. All fully built.
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Looking good man, its really coming along nicely.
Really love your car, I bet your excited to get it done.
Update:
Got the motor all painted and pretty much everything bolted on. I still need to run lines for the turbo, and mount some sensors. The power steering pump needs to go on as well. Bought a new water pump and painted all the pulleys, and polished the heads of all the bolts. Wanted to go with chevy orange all along, and stuck with that idea. I had a heat shield that im trying to work on for the starter. The return lines and 02 sensors are very close together, so it will be fun to make those lines. Turbo and manifold are not mounted final, but everything else is, minus the intake manifold. Pictures below.
Heat Shield in the works:
Once the sensors and lines are made, the entire motor will be cleared to preserve the paint with Engine Clear paint.
XtremE2200CaV: The Build has Begun
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3864109/2001-chevrolet-cavalier-sedan-4d
I think the head should have stayed natural color, or painted silver. That could be too much orange.
FU Tuning
Chevy engine red. Classic. I like it.
Man this build is really coming along can't wait to see the finished product. Got respect for the guys sticking with the 2200 keep it up.
Update Time:
I was able to get the remaining new sensors, cam sensor and knock sensor. Bought a Felpro cylinder head gasket set for the intake gasket, throttle body, plate gasket, and a few other misc. gaskets that I needed. Got the intake, sensors, fuel rail and injectors all mounted up. While everything seemed to be running good, I ran into a pretty big problem with the return line on the turbo.
The turbo set-up was custom made by RD fabs. I have the adapter fittings and was planning on running a 10AN line. Once the adapter is on the turbo, the fitting hits the top of the starter. Also the return line will be pretty much parallel to the block. Ive read the return line is critical for turbo life. I have a few options in mind. Trying to find a starter with a solenoid that i can rotate. cutting down an aluminum fitting and welding it to the adapter. While both these options should work, they dont solve the parallel line problem. My other idea is to run a scavenge pump with a separate tank for oil just for the turbo. This will allow the turbo to run oil, without taking hot oil from the motor. The scavenge pump will solve all of those problems because it will pull it will pull the oil from the turbo. Any ideas on this will be helpful.
The return fitting:
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Sorry to be the one to suggest it, but I think it is the right solution. Take an inch off the welded return line in the pan. Then it won't be horizontal. Any other idea seems like a hack. :/ best of luck.
Yah id say weld a bung directly to the pan. Then run a 458 an fitting so you can aim it towards the turbo. Then run a 45 on the turbo
boy that would look nice with one of my sheet metal intake manifolds on it!
I feel ya.. I am running into the same problem with the eco.... tailshaft is in the way since I tapped the girdle and an fittings and -10 tend to kink a bit.
Just an FYI.
I would lock tite and possibly safety wire the engine mount bracket to the head.
I was running poly mounts and my bolts backed out.
This caused the bracket to slap the head, making me think I spun a rod bearing.
Upon dissambly I noticed, I only has 2/4 bolts still in the head.
This winter, I will be safety wiring every external bolt on my engine.
This might seem like a pain in the ass, but every rebuild costs about 2K.
Better to be safe than sorry.
Bobby, thanks for that info. I did red lock tite everything on the outside of the motor as well as lock tite during assembly.
Back to the return fitting. I agree that cutting the fitting in the pan would be easy, but i didnt want to break the gasket seal on the pan, also the fact that everything is panted too. That doesnt solve the fitting coming out of the turbo also. I took pictures of the two adapter fittings i have for the return to give everyone an idea. My option for this fitting is to cut the threads off the one adpater because the flange is thinner, and have a pipe fitting welded to it and use a pusk lock hose setup. I am worried about the oil puddling up in the fitting which is why the scavenge pump came to mind.
I also received my new throttle cable today and got that all mounted and in place through the firewall. More to come.
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What about running an external starter solenoid like an older Ford truck?
The wiring might be a pain in the ass but if you could get the solenoid off of the body of the starter youd have tons more room.
Im not sure if you can remove the solenoid completely from the starter because that is what kicks the gear out to spin the flywheel. You can mount a remote solenoid but still need the starter solenoid to kick the gear. I was thinking about looking into a performance starter with a solenoid that i can rotate the body of the starter for more room.
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VTLoki wrote:Can the center of the turbo be clocked seperatly in such a way to leave the hot side as is, but just move the drain closer to the front of the car without going too far that gravity will no longer drain it? This may give the clearance needed with the solenoid.
Does this help? http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-009&Category_Code=
With this http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-004&Category_Code=
I second this idea.
You can clock the center, as long as its not horizontal, you will not have a problem.
Not all drains are a perfect 90*, mine is about 20* off vertical.
This would be the best solution.
Clock it slightly towards the radiator, and run a 90* fitting like your last picture.
Also be sure to run a restrictor on your feed line.
You don't want to blow out the seals.
OR
On your last picture, it looks like you only a smidge away from making it clear the starter .....
What it you machined the mating face thinner, which you bring everything up closer towards the turbo.
OR
Found this on EBAY.
Search: AN 10 Turbo Oil Return Drain Flange Angled T3 T4 T04E
Thank you Bobby for the ebay link, That could come in handy. Im still looking for the best option for the return line. In the meantime, more parts came in today. Ordered the aeromotive regulator and fuel gauge, MSD booster pump, an air/oil seperator, some more russell fittings, as well as some Wilwood DOT5 brake fluid.
More to come
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Small update:
Had to drill out the AN fittings for the transmission cooler lines. These will be welded this week and installed when I get them back. Ordering some more parts for this week, hoping to put motor in this weekend if all goes well. Still need to figure out the return line, but the scavenge pump is my #1 option right now.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3864109/2001-chevrolet-cavalier-sedan-4d
Update:
Received the torque converter today, upgraded to a 2800 sthal woven carbon clutch converter. Also got the hose and some fittings for the feed line. With these parts, I am planning to put the motor in the car over the weekend so hopefully there will be some big updates to come. I also got the necessary fittings for the transmission temperature sensor for in-line. Once the fittings are welded onto the flange the transmission cooler routing will be complete.
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I love that you're taking your time on this build to make sure everything is right. Can't wait to see it up and running!!
"In Oldskool we trust"
