Well you can tell he is a hardcore gangster, just look at the crooked hat.
I think we should just let him be .....
That's my brother in the hat...
Sorry for being a d!ck, I just have confidence in my ability to wire things the right way. This comes from a lot a f-up's in stereo installs.
I agree that upgrading the wiring to the fuel pump is a great idea, and I just don't like being told that I have to spend the money on a plug and play harness, when I have the time to make the exact same thing, not to mention the materials, including the weather pack components.
Yeah, I have a hahn kit, and yeah I'm extremely happy that it's plug and play for the most part. Yeah I am extremely thankful that you guys are here to offer advice. Again, sorry for trying to push my point so hard that I end up with an "I know more than you, even though I've never done this before" sort of attitude.
Lets just drop the fuel pump wiring harness thing please until I actually get to that part. I need to pay some court cost's and get a couple brake jobs done before I can afford it.
@Chris -sweetness-
Yeah sears was award hahaha, but I got my bolts
Then i go over to autozone, and ask them if they have any dash AN fittings..... "WTF is ayanna? What year make model?".... "It's aftermarket" ... "Go away"
Down to summit I go.
@Mr. Gatti
I'm not questioning anyone's build. I was pointing out the outrageous sales pitch on the Racetronx site.
I'm 100% positive the harness yield's a big difference. I'm just going to upgrade the wiring myself.
@Bobby
I have a 2500+ watt RMS stereo system in the car. I listen to country and alternative rock. I designed my front component crossover from scratch, and positioned the tweeters to get the most possible clarity. Right now, I'm working on bringing the mid-bass more forward, as I hate when all the low end comes from the rear. 'nuff said
Not trying to be a D!ick, its just my personality. Please nobody take it personal. Except Bobby. You're an ass. I love vans hats.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Those Ohio plates? Where are you from?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Iv got a racetronix pump and brand new never installed harness if your interested.
Also, please use T bolt clamps not the regular hose clamps for your charge piping. Keep making progress
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Eric Knight wrote:I mean from inside the car, just cut a big hole, do the pump, and tack it back on, and a little rtv... then just grind the tacks off if I ever need to get back in there... or I could go all out and put hinges and a seal on it. My point was that I hate dropping gas tanks, and would rather cut a hole in the floor.
Besides that though, I'm still going to put the "harness" in, I'm just going to make it myself.
All it really is, is a "hefty" 10 gauge wire. Last time I checked you don't get up to 20% more fuel pressure from a wire that's #10 instead of #12.
I'm going to chop up the harness, use the actual pump power wire as a signal wire for a relay in the trunk, then 8 gauge to the pump connector [off of a fused distribution block at the battery]. I guarantee you there will be no voltage drop there. There ad is total bs also. They claim that putting the wire on the alternator give you 14 volts instead of 12.... When your car is running, there is 13.5-14.9 volts everywhere. If anything, connecting it to the alternator may actually lessen the life of the pump, as your car battery acts as a sort of "shock absorber" for voltage spikes and dips, evening out overall system voltage. Plus when you put the pedal to the floor, and that pump needs to draw more current... where do you think its coming from? The battery, not the alternator. The bigger wire makes sense. The +12 point does not.
Like I said I have a giant bucket of 8+ gauge wire a bajillon relays, and too many ring terminals and weather pack pins to count. I'd rather save the $50 and take the knowledge from learning the fuel wiring system.
/end dickishness
Got the 02 fuel rail on. I seemed to have lost an injector somewhere on my desk 
Coming along nicely, maybe I'll have it running tonight hahaha
First bolded statement...
So you want to grind and then weld... Right above a gas tank, that you just had the lines off and pump out. Smart
Second bolded statement...
Lazy ass.
Something else you might want to consider, Honda's and other cars that have access panels from inside the car for the pump, the fuel lines disconnect at the pump. Our cars have formed plastic lines connected directly to the pump that run all the way from there to behind and under the tank. So your "access panel" will need to be about 4-5 feet long to safely remove the pump.
Enjoy your laziness, let us know when your car goes up in flames so someone else can buy this kit, someone that isnt too cheap to spend $50 on a harness.
gtpsunfire wrote:Eric Knight wrote:I mean from inside the car, just cut a big hole, do the pump, and tack it back on, and a little rtv... then just grind the tacks off if I ever need to get back in there... or I could go all out and put hinges and a seal on it. My point was that I hate dropping gas tanks, and would rather cut a hole in the floor.
Besides that though, I'm still going to put the "harness" in, I'm just going to make it myself.
All it really is, is a "hefty" 10 gauge wire. Last time I checked you don't get up to 20% more fuel pressure from a wire that's #10 instead of #12.
I'm going to chop up the harness, use the actual pump power wire as a signal wire for a relay in the trunk, then 8 gauge to the pump connector [off of a fused distribution block at the battery]. I guarantee you there will be no voltage drop there. There ad is total bs also. They claim that putting the wire on the alternator give you 14 volts instead of 12.... When your car is running, there is 13.5-14.9 volts everywhere. If anything, connecting it to the alternator may actually lessen the life of the pump, as your car battery acts as a sort of "shock absorber" for voltage spikes and dips, evening out overall system voltage. Plus when you put the pedal to the floor, and that pump needs to draw more current... where do you think its coming from? The battery, not the alternator. The bigger wire makes sense. The +12 point does not.
Like I said I have a giant bucket of 8+ gauge wire a bajillon relays, and too many ring terminals and weather pack pins to count. I'd rather save the $50 and take the knowledge from learning the fuel wiring system.
/end dickishness
Got the 02 fuel rail on. I seemed to have lost an injector somewhere on my desk
Coming along nicely, maybe I'll have it running tonight hahaha
First bolded statement...
So you want to grind and then weld... Right above a gas tank, that you just had the lines off and pump out. Smart
Second bolded statement...
Lazy ass.
Something else you might want to consider, Honda's and other cars that have access panels from inside the car for the pump, the fuel lines disconnect at the pump. Our cars have formed plastic lines connected directly to the pump that run all the way from there to behind and under the tank. So your "access panel" will need to be about 4-5 feet long to safely remove the pump.
Enjoy your laziness, let us know when your car goes up in flames so someone else can buy this kit, someone that isnt too cheap to spend $50 on a harness.
Just an idea from when I had my gti VR6. You'll be happy to see my progress. Advice already taken.
Soooooooo close.
Swapping to a 2.4 intake w/ adapter plate for now
Hahn makes me sexy
Racetronix W1 on the way, $14.50 shipping --thumbs down-- although I'm sure its worth it.
No harness though, sticking with my plan to tap FP power directly from optima in the trunk.
Wire routing should be easy since my interior is gutted. I'm taking the opportunity to lay down the 100+sq ft of FatMat I've had laying around forever.
I'll post pics of the interior tomorrow.
Also, since I plan on running MS, I'm going to add 2 of these bad boys to the firewall while I have easy access to it.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html
Should look nice when its all together.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Wait a second. Are you Brian Knight's brother???
Chris Gatti wrote:
you have a hahn kit, not a hahnda quit trying to be cheap and cut corners! people would kill for that kit!
Honda's are WAY more advanced of a platform than we will EVER be. Comparing a cavalier to a honda is an insult to Honda's. You want to see real power, and real track times go to hondatech.... they will school you all day long.
Wtf? yeah I'm brian's brother. who the F-ck are you? lol
I'm scoping a patriot head with turbo grind comp camps... this is a friggen steal $600
Who wants to buy a fabbed turbo intake?
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
BuiltNBoosted wrote:Chris Gatti wrote:
you have a hahn kit, not a hahnda quit trying to be cheap and cut corners! people would kill for that kit!
Honda's are WAY more advanced of a platform than we will EVER be. Comparing a cavalier to a honda is an insult to
Honda's. You want to see real power, and real track times go to hondatech.... they will school you all day long.
I was more referring to the way alot of them get done half fast at least in az, it makes me sick!
Eric Knight wrote:Wtf? yeah I'm brian's brother. who the F-ck are you? lol
I'm scoping a patriot head with turbo grind comp camps... this is a friggen steal $600
Who wants to buy a fabbed turbo intake?
how much for the intake got a friend interested p.m. pics please
lmao
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
aswell as indecisive lmao
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
hahah, keep it
throw some juice on that pig too
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
Hahaha. 8psi + a 75 shot? That should be fun for all of 3 seconds...
I'll probably hold on to the basics, but I'm gonna get rid of the extra's. Like the bottle warmer, pressure gauge, possibly the NX panel switch. I can probably find a cool use for the panel switch though.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Eric Knight wrote:Hahaha. 8psi + a 75 shot? That should be fun for all of 3 seconds...
why? i was running 16psi which I would equate 10hp per psi or something along those lines and it didnt blow. its all in the tune.
I'm going to hold off on the nitrous+boost this season with my stock block. Forged internals going in over the winter... then the fun starts
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Pics before bed. Took a trip down to summit to get my oil fittings. Ended up spending $75. Well, $38 on fittings and my missing ARP stud pieces
$10 for the -8AN to 3/8NPT $7.50 for the washers, and $1.68 for the missing nut
The phone salesman at Summit was so helpful. I had no idea what the specific sizes were for Ecotec ARP studs (FYI 7/16"). He put me on hold, called ARP and figured out every size I needed in like 3 minutes. The only thing he was wrong about, is the tap and die set he sold me being able to tap 3/8" NPT... Oh well.
My $12 boost gauge hahahaha. Most likely a return, along with the tap and die set.
On the lookout for a remote fuel pressure gauge. I hear good things about GlowShift for budget, so I put a bid in on eBay for $30 shipped on #GS-T711
The one thing that went 100% right tonight. Feed line... Check.
Oil pans, Mine's on the right, the one that came with the block I bought is the one I decided to tap. He welded a 1/8" plate over his old tap (although I wish he didn't). Makes more sense to me since there's more beef, and the end of the fitting will poke out a measly 3/32"
For some reason I though 3/8th NPT meant a 3/8"-18 tap. My brother informed me that it's 3/8" ID, the tap needs to be an actually NPT tap. I tapped it to 14mm -18, and it alllmost fit.... I think I can get away with a 5/8-18 tap. Anyone have any ideas of where to buy single taps for cheap? I'm thinking harbor freight, but I'll probally end up at sears since its 3 minutes from me, and tomorrow shuts gettin' dun.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
If possible, alot of LD9 guys (including myself) put the oil return directly into the block. Dunno the entire situation with the ECO, but try and find a spot to put the drain instead of the pan. You'll be able to run a shorter line and be les prone to leaks with the extra threads to grip on. I'm sure someone has some pictures, I'll look around for you.
