Us saab turbo guys drain it back into the girdle area of the block. It's pretty obvious when you look on the rear of the block, kind of angled out and has a center you can drill out.
I found this picture through google, of all searches. Like slocav said, it's in the girdle, my mistake saying it's in the block.
Thanks, I've never seen that picture before. I've already debated weather to tap the girdle or to tap the block. I've read a lot of threads about people arguing because the oil pan is full right up to the top, and one person has had oil backed up into the turbo. Don't ask me how that happens (really low placement?)
I'll tap the girdle in the short block sitting on the floor, but I'm going to go the pan route with this setup. It's where hahn puts it, and plus I already bought the fittings haha. Oh, and I'd love to have a spare-not-f'ed-with motor chillin just if the car needs to go back to stock. Even though they probably wouldn't notice a cap on the girdle.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Silly me tapped it to 3/4-16, I found a fitting laying around that fits, and its from around the corner.
It's a little itty bitty .01 play loose, but nothing a crush washer can't fix.
What do you guys think?
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Success!
I am worried about the fitting in the pan though. If its going to leak, its going to leak there. Since it's an adapter to 3/8 NPT, I can plug it if I need to. Alumiweld? Someone stop me now if that's a bad idea!
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Personally I say grab a new pan from a yard and drill/tap the girdle. No leaks, no mess. It's fairly easy to keep the metal shaving out of the engine from what I've seen and read. No, I personally have not done it (I do not own an eco, I have an LD9). Do it once, do it right. But to each their own I guess. The pan WILL leak at some point, if not right away, very soon down the line. Just some food for thought, good luck.
Going to get something to eat while the pan cools off. Let's hope it holds! I've heard good things about alumiweld and brass, but this is the first time I've tried it.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Thrice . wrote:Personally I say grab a new pan from a yard and drill/tap the girdle. No leaks, no mess. It's fairly easy to keep the metal shaving out of the engine from what I've seen and read. No, I personally have not done it (I do not own an eco, I have an LD9). Do it once, do it right. But to each their own I guess. The pan WILL leak at some point, if not right away, very soon down the line. Just some food for thought, good luck.
My oil drain is tapped into the pan and hasn't ever leaked....
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I had a bung welded to the pan. but on my darton block, its in the girdle
^^ hope is found for me
Pan's on. Waiting for the rtv to set a little bit before I torque the bolts, then the rest should go smoothly. Worst case is I turn the car on and oil starts spewing out from the tap/seal/dip-stick. Best case no leaks. Most likely case is a slow tiny drip.
Who has input on what oil to put into it? I've been running full conventional, as I have 20 quarts still. I may fill it up conventional, then switch to a synth-blend after 300-500 miles, then full synthetic. I'm not sure.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
The only time i had an issue with a leak on the girdle drain was when the drain tube got a little worn out/broken in. I just threw some engine rtv around it and never ever had a problem with it since.
Decided that HP was the way to go with this build. Saving the MS for my winter build (excpecially since its taking years to hear back about my RMA)
Should be getting some goodies delivered throughout the week
.
I have (had) a 97 Grand Am and the transmission decided to die the other day, and with 180k on the clock it was about time. I know my short block will drop right in, and I have no problem welding up a tranny mount for an F23. What do you guys think? ... I'm gonna have to think that idea over once I get this build done. I want to keep this car stock/sleeper, and MS seemed a little overboard.
I just have to figure out axles I think, since the Grand Am would be running MS with the Ecotec, and only drive on the track.
On the way:
HPT PRO
Glowshift 0-100 fuel pressure gauge
Racetronix W1
I'm definitely not running a EGT with this hahn kit, seems a bit overkill
Just trying to figure out what else I can invest in to make this a solid daily driver.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Please tell me a set of tires is on the "to buy" list...
Hahaha, yes. I'm trying to decide the best tire under $450 for the set for auto-x. 255/55/r16 for my alloy's. I have a set of 4 run of the mill cheap tires, but with good tread that I'm throwing on when this things driving. I'd probably trade my fabbed mani for a solid set of used sticky street tires, but yes, tires are next up on the list.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
I don't know, it's here, I'm putting it in, just grumpy tonight. It did come with the strainer and lines, and I'm sure that adds up to what I payed anyways. It's a solid investment either way and should suit my needs for a long time. Thanks for the advice on the pump everybody!
I think I may replace my pressure line with a -4 an line while I have the the tank out, I need to price some fittings before that's set in stone though.
I'll also be logging my custom FP harness build in this thread, and if it turns out to be a cheaper, as effective alternative maybe we can write a how-to. I'll make 2 different variations. one to the battery in the trunk if you have it relocated with #2 or bigger cable, and #8 or #10 to the alternator. I will have to chop up my little harness at the tank, but I'll grab some spares at the yard sometime this week.
f
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Eric Knight wrote:Got my racetronix fuel pump today.
Why didn't anyone tell me I could have just bought the exact same thing at summit for $90 + a connector and a siphon tube?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-GSS342/
:/
its not the same. the venturi in the racetronix is VITAL to the pump working in our tanks correctly. Racetronix is quieter, set up to work in our tanks and doesnt deal with fuel cut.
on the racetronix, yes. That summit one you posted doesnt seem to have the correct fittings in it.
Alright, and from what I read that fitting is very important for holding pressure in the line and cold starts.
Got my FPR gauge today
Glowshift is definetally a good looking gauge. Not too ricer style, and not too hardcore racing style. Love it.
Now I still want to run a AN pressure line. Where should I put the fitting on the pump side? I was thinking of plugging the hole on the sending unit pressure line hole, and then putting a fitting next to it directly on the tank. then running the line from the pump in the sending unit and putting it on the fitting.
OR
Would it be wiser to put a fitting on after the nylon lines from the sending unit? I kinked the pressure line though :/, but I bought repair kit just in case.
Also input on what size line. I have 4an lines hanging around, hoping that that should be big enough.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Okay, the braided lines are going to have to wait for a little while, so thats not important. Pumps in, tanks on, harness in progress.
Mass pic load tomorrow, but I have a question.
I need to know the stock injector size for an l61.
The ones that come with the Hahn kit are apparently 26lb/hr
I have 60lb/hr injectors.
Did a rough calculation. They require 85-90psi for the system to run. My static pressure was about 46-48psi, and by my rough numbers here, I need to have about 20-28psi of pressure to have the same flow. I'm hoping I can run the stock injectors at 90psi for a little while while I get accustomed to HTP, or do you think these 630cc's will work at 45psi, and the ecu will cut the PW down?
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Turbo's on the manifold, The oil drain hose he gave me is too short
Pump's in the sending unit. Does that clamp from the pump to housing look alright?
HELP! I tried to put the original quick clips on, but they're huge and I just messed the line up.
Just the Dorman help section ya'll think?
2.4 manifold and my bored out throttle body.
It's a sad sight to see it without that fabbed intake. Shes in Texas now, and I'll always miss her.
Goodies.... That sending unit is HUUUUGE.
I love this sight when you pull in your driveway....
New tires for my alloys!
Wanted something for the street, and something for auto-x. Best I could find.
I <3 Tire Rack (specs here)
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
bad news...
that's not a 20G... I think it's a 16G
the 20G needs a spacer put on the manifold inorder to mount the turbo.
I though hahn injectors were 42#...
