Starting this build, thought it would be easy.. Turned out to be way more difficult than I thought. Putting the supercharger on, stock pulley, got all parts for an 06 ss, the pulley bumps the pulley tensioner. Now what? I removed the engine hook, which I thought was the only problem, having to remove have the stuff I put on.. then this.. The only thing I could think of is the intake manifold is using M6 studs that I made.. a lot of wiggle room, and the intake manifold is sagging. Any ideas? I have had my car disassembled for almost 2 weeks now and this is becoming quite a pain..

First...

You either need to tap the head for M8 studs or use the shoulder bolts in the supercharger how to post. Using the wrong size studs will not work!

Yor probably running into issues with the tensioner because you have to ring a little off the head iirc.

This is the link with all the info you would need. http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=183438&t=183438

It also seems you have made a post about this install a bit ago....re read that how to.

Wait you didn't use the original l61 m6 studs did you? That's asking for trouble! If you want to.use m6 studs you HAVE to use shouldered bolts. Otherwise your going to snap a stud in the head and even if you don'tyoubly have a huge vaccum leak. Order the studs from the ultimate m62 FAQ on here or re-drill and tap for m8. For the other issue What pulley is hitting the tensioner?

Sorry that was a huge typing fail haha. Trying to type on my phone while my daughter was trying to take it from me haha.

I reread that almighty post a thousand times. I know what you are talking about. I looked into all of that but couldnt find a solution. I already broke a bolt off in the bloody head and had to drill it out and retap it. Go to any auto store or hardware or call or email any bolt store, and no one has a clue what i mean by "shoulder" bolts. I mean, i like the picture, but I cannot find those bolts anywhere. Some people thought I was using old language and meant "flanged" bolts. And the M62's stock 3.45" or so pullley is bumping against the tensioner pulley's connection to the generator extension. I was looking at another solution.. You know the metal spacers that the original intake manifold had in them? If I cut those, would those work? If you guys say no, then Im buying those bolts from that website immediately..

Ahh man excuse my snapping, just getting annoyed at all the problems Im having. Thanks for helping anyways.

Just buy the bolts.

The less things you half ass the less issues your going to have in the long run. Id order the zzp spacer that comes with the M8 studs and retap the head for M8.....but thats just me.

Im sure those shouldered studs would be hard to find locally. Order them online if you are going to go that route.

For the bolts

Buy 5 of these http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0154418&ucst=t
and 2 of these http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0154419&ucst=t

$17 well spent. Fastenal will have them shipped to you in no time. If there is one close to you even better.

I got my original shoulder bolts from Fastenal. Called them on Monday, picked them up Tuesday.

Realized I put this topic in the wrong forum, was in a bit of rush.. Sorry. Umm but anyways, while I have all the the experts here, did you all use the 3/8" axle nut plug that that thread said to use? Cause if I tap that in.. I dont want the blower to crack, cause thats aluminum.

Axle nut plug? Are you talking to plug the hole on the top of the blower where the sensor on the delta's go? I know a member here was machining little plugs for them. Others just kept the sensor there and if it's areal gm kit you should have to ta an aluminum plug into it.

i tapped mine and put a pipethread plug in it. looks like it supposed to be there, when i run meth, it will be the nozzle injection point.

JUCNBST wrote:Axle nut plug? Are you talking to plug the hole on the top of the blower where the sensor on the delta's go? I know a member here was machining little plugs for them. Others just kept the sensor there and if it's areal gm kit you should have to ta an aluminum plug into it.

Next week i should have a better plug for that sensor.

I just left the sensor. I'll plug it eventually.

pyromechanic wrote:Realized I put this topic in the wrong forum, was in a bit of rush.. Sorry. Umm but anyways, while I have all the the experts here, did you all use the 3/8" axle nut plug that that thread said to use? Cause if I tap that in.. I dont want the blower to crack, cause thats aluminum.

You won't crack the blower...the axle nut plugs (I have no idea why they're called that or what their intended use is), but they're super thin and crush a bit, so one or two light taps with a hammer and it'll pop right in. If you want a little extra leak insurance, throw some rtv on first, though I used just the plug and have been fine.

Alright I got the bolts in.. Put them on, tried to see if the blow would fit on, it does ever so slightly.. the pulley is rubbing so hard against the hydraulic pulley that its creating rust on both the pullley and the tensioner's bracket.. I was now thinking that it may have been the ilder pulley that wasnt correctly positioned, so i removed my fender again. I still have the same problem.. I have had my car dismantled for almost 3 weeks already and it is still not together. Now since I basically took everything apart to try various solutions, I am closer to my stock state than supercharged. Im beginning to give up on this.. If any of you guys have any idea itd be greatly appreciated by myself. I will have pictures of it put up in a little bit.

Are you using the correct M8 sized bolts for the manifold or shoulder bolts?

That could be whats causing your issues.

Or if that supercharger ever had a aftermarket hub on it they may have pressed the stock pulley on to far.

Those are the only things thats going to affect that clearance.

Yes, the ones that were mentioned in the m62 ultimate guide. I bought the correct ones. And dude he did, I was thinking that could be it, but thought it can only go on one way, and it was a dumb idea. How do I remove it?

You didn't grind away the part of the head that the lift hook attaches to, did you? If so, that's your problem. You need to shave it down with a rotary bit (or even a file will work), about 1/8" or a bit less, to make clearance for the pulley.

If you didn't so that, re-check my m62 Guide, there's a pic showing the exact spot to remove material from

EVILution (KGM Godfather) wrote:You didn't grind away the part of the head that the lift hook attaches to, did you? If so, that's your problem. You need to shave it down with a rotary bit (or even a file will work), about 1/8" or a bit less, to make clearance for the pulley.

If you didn't so that, re-check my m62 Guide, there's a pic showing the exact spot to remove material from

Wake up Matt, that spot on the head needs to be clearanced for the tensioner pulley, not the S/C. It looks like to me that the S/C pulley was pressed on too far. You'll have to get ahold of a S/C pulley puller and fix it.

Okay I rented a pulley puller from auto zone and it didnt work.. Im not sure of how to take it off, other than a shop doing it. Im thinking I could pay about the same for the shop to remove it a little, or just split the stock pulley and remove it, and get a hub and 3.1" pulley.

Lol so I brought it to Midas and they said they have no idea how the previous owner could have done this. They said they cannot take the pulley off, and they might even think it is shot. So.. Along with a bolt breaking off in the head, multiple little things here or there that needed replacing or didnt work, getting correct injector spacers, and now this... This is depressing. Im thinking I am going to heat it up, break it off, and replace the pulley with a stock one, or a new hub and 3.1" pulley.

i have a pulley puller and a stock pulley...ill sell ya both for 90 shipped..