my only other thoughts are that if the car ran fine before you installed the blower, then you did something wrong during your install.

Who tuned your PCM? You have the reflash right? Are you sure you hooked vaccum stuff up right? Are you sure you wired the new TMAP right?

I ran fine when I first started the car, the reflashed ecu from a, I think, 03 cavalier 5speed manual, was reflashed for the blower from GM and I bought it for my 05 sunfire.. And yes Im sure I wired the Tmap correctly, it is the same sensor that was on the manifold when I recieved it, from a 06 Cobalt SS. Im really thinking it is my bypass.. Im reading on it, about how another forced induced Ecotec had a whistle sound when going from vacuum to boost, which I am definately getting a whistle. Its louder than the blower, and if I didnt have my gauge, I could even tell when my bypass valve is trying to close. I dont think I noticed it when I first drove it, but now I do. Btw I really appreciate everyone's help, I know some of you are probably frustrated with my unexperienced talk and terminology, but Im going to be honest, Im not a mechanic. I just know a lot about cars, specifically this one because of this website. And I know this is the last thread anyone wants to see on top of the "boost" forum haha

It's normal to hear a whistle right as you cross into boost...as the plunger inside the bypass valve begins to close, it'll whistle from the air trying to squeeze through the closing gap. That's the noise that makes me smile since it typically leads to me mashing the pedal to the floor.
It could be possible for the valve to be bad though...mine went bad a few hundred miles after installing my blower, I couldn't generate more than 4-5 psi, and it was fluttery at best. After swapping on a new bypass, I decided to cut apart my old one, and sure enough it had a 1" tear in the rubber diagram inside the plastic casing.

BUT...it sounds sounds like something isn't hooked up correctly, or an issue with the reflash (which is just one big issue itself IMO). I'd really go back and thoroughly re-check any vacuum and electrical connection you touched during the install. You may also want to pull the blower and manifold and recheck the condition of both gaskets and make sure they aren't leaking.

i am not sure that the cobalt sensor on the manifold is a TMAP. if there is a part number on it post it....we run a 2.5 tmap, i think they just run 2 maps...

Pretty sure they run the same as ours.

Yeah I would assume that.. But the parts did have 88000 miles on them already with about 5-10 of them with a 2.8 pulley. I didnt touch any electrical yet, and my vacuum hoses are routed the same as other pictures of 2.2's with the blower.. I dont have the extra money right now to get a real tune, nor do I want to pretend I know how to tune it with HPT. Also, I think I remember reading Evil's ultimate guide saying the Cobalt's is the same. The reason I am thinking it is the bypass, is simple. I seem to be getting misfires when I accelerate (under boost), I reset the computer and made all hose connections correctly the same day I started and had plenty of power. If the by-pass valve is letting out some boost, the computer will still think I have the correct amount of boost, where it already runs "rich" as many of you say, causing it to dump too much gas, flooding the cylinder and making a misfire. Thats how I see it right now, even if my hypothesis is wrong.. I will change it as well as the alternator in the next week, and get my dual pass and heat exchanger running. Then we test..

EvoFire wrote:i am not sure that the cobalt sensor on the manifold is a TMAP. if there is a part number on it post it....we run a 2.5 tmap, i think they just run 2 maps...

It is a TMAP that is in the manifold on the LSJs.



What is the gap on the NGKs? Mine are around 35. Too much gap and you could be getting spark blowout.

Your bypass theory sounds possible to me, but with my experience with being too rich resulted in the car bucking, backfiring, and losing all power(crapflash went insanely rich on me at times).

Alright here is an update.. got the alternator replaced and put the dual pass endplate on with the bottom two cores switched and a new by pass.. Theres no difference. Im willing to accept that this is the speed of the car, but I know I felt way more power the first time I drove it.. I was also beginning to think maybe I blew through the intake gasket and didnt put enough rtv. I put more rtv along with everything else. Still the same.. The gap on the plugs are whatever they were that Auto Zone gave to me, speciffically designed for a 2.2 sunfire. They are G-power NGK platinum alloy. But I know its not the plugs cause I removed the iridium 3 step colder plugs with these close to AC delco stock, and no difference. It hit me today though.. When I really started feeling this drop in power and felt bored, was when I got a full tank of 93 octane. I had a mix os half and half unleaded and 93 the first time I drove it and for the first week. The car was crazy fast. Also, last thing Im thinking, may one of the injector orings ripped or isnt sealing anymore. On another note, there was gas on the intake gasket between the head and gasket.

This just hit me in the face.. I found this on another website:

"Unless the car is tuned for it, higher octane burns slower and can actually slow down the car."

They were talking about using a 2.6" pulley on a m62 with only.. 91 octane! Once I empty my tank, Im trying lower octanes.

pyromechanic wrote:Alright here is an update.. got the alternator replaced and put the dual pass endplate on with the bottom two cores switched and a new by pass.. Theres no difference. Im willing to accept that this is the speed of the car, but I know I felt way more power the first time I drove it.. I was also beginning to think maybe I blew through the intake gasket and didnt put enough rtv. I put more rtv along with everything else. Still the same.. The gap on the plugs are whatever they were that Auto Zone gave to me, speciffically designed for a 2.2 sunfire. They are G-power NGK platinum alloy. But I know its not the plugs cause I removed the iridium 3 step colder plugs with these close to AC delco stock, and no difference. It hit me today though.. When I really started feeling this drop in power and felt bored, was when I got a full tank of 93 octane. I had a mix os half and half unleaded and 93 the first time I drove it and for the first week. The car was crazy fast. Also, last thing Im thinking, may one of the injector orings ripped or isnt sealing anymore. On another note, there was gas on the intake gasket between the head and gasket.

Back away from the car. You really have no idea what you are doing.

So you have no idea what gap you are running, and you are using a platinum plug. The stock plugs are iridium. Put 4 of these plugs in your car and stop worrying about spark plugs.

pyromechanic wrote:This just hit me in the face.. I found this on another website:

"Unless the car is tuned for it, higher octane burns slower and can actually slow down the car."

They were talking about using a 2.6" pulley on a m62 with only.. 91 octane! Once I empty my tank, Im trying lower octanes.

They are talking about like 100 and 107 race fuel. The GM instructions say to run Premium 93 octane gas with the blower kit. If you run anything less then 91 you will have a ton of knock, and the car will hate it.

ok you will need the 91 or 93,
you need to swap the plugs as stated
and make sure they are gapped right

In this picture

where is the green line going? it needs to go where the red line is going.

if you have less then 93 it will run funny and buck and misfire if you get on it ocassionaly, if you have a 1/2 tank and add 93 to it you will still have the same issue.
likewise with the plugs, get the ones mentioned and you will be good to go.

did you modify the intake manifold gasket?

what size pulley is on there right now?

is your boost guage hooked up correctly and sit @ zero when its turned off?

Quote:

And depending on whatever other people did, I wont cut holes in the intake gasket for the pcv intake ports if no one else did and didnt have issues.

this is a necessary step^^^^^^^^^

as for the red line that is the fix, you can add a "T" for your boost guage, as stated by many before.


flashing CEL means missfire

no cooling systems means it wont feel as fast, try driving it at midnight when its cooler, it will beel better.
do you have a header? or stock manifold?

one last thing, you sure the loud whistle isnt your supercharger pulley rubbing, where it clearns now cause you hit it with a hammer?

Okay come on evo, I put the supercharger on the car and it runs fine, idk if everyone understood this, but the car runs fine, no more CEL or flashing CEL, just low power. There is no stalling, no bad idle, no codes. You want to see the plugs that I put in the first time? Click. And I just diluded the gas to about 90/91 octane and yeah.. no difference. And snowman, that green line was originally going straight to my boost gauge, but I changed it as everyone told me to, and hooked the fpr onto it, and T'ed it off to my boost gauge. I have no more pulsing lights, so the alternator was the issue for that. As well, the guy I bought the kit off of was a nice guy, but idk if knew what he was doing either.. The blower I got was dry as hell, no oil, and the pulley was pressed on far enough so it was difficult to rotate because it was rubbing the snout. I have the stock pulley still on it, I cut the gasket as shown in the "engine stock to 250hp" instructions.. And my mechanical boost gauge reads at like 1 inHG of vacuum when off.

You need to run 92-93 octane. Anything lower and you risk damaging your engine. I only run 93.

Tinkles(KGM) wrote:You need to run 92-93 octane. Anything lower and you risk damaging your engine. I only run 93.

we gosta run 91 here in AZ

pyro we are just trying to help man...maybe you just think there should be more power then there is.

oh and ill get that pulley mailed out..lol been working 10-12 hour days since you bought it so its been hard to get to the post office.

yea we only have 91 in this part of texas too.

we are trying to help, do you have a header and exhaust? or stock manifold? that will make a difference too

but the stock pulley was 5-6
the lsj pulley was 7-9

and something like that

and if your guage is off and not at zero it could be you are seeeing the 6-7 psi but only registering as 4-5

I know.. Maybe its in my head but it doesnt feel like it and I bet if one of you drove it, youd probably say the same haha.. I have pacesetter header, pacesetter exhaust, stock cat. Umm since I put everything back together with the stuff I mentioned in the previous comment, Im actually getting lower psi than before.. Such as, about 1500 rpm, I only get 2lb of boost in WOT, and it slowly declines as well. When Im at about 2000rpm Im getting 3lb of boost in WOT.. And yeah I know guys thanks a lot

With that kind of boost issue my only thought is something is going wrong with your bypass valve.

-Chris-



-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...