Its prob a sensor...Maybe 02?
Harry S wrote:Geekd24 and Smokey, do you guys get any CEL?
Got any occasional ALMOST stalling when comes to a stop?
never had any stalling problems nor CEL's from the map sensor... i have other CEL's but none of them have anything to do with the map sensor
<br>
________________________________________________
...dont encourage
this is exactly why i dont mess with turbos that much.... <br>
I read in "maxium boost" that a check valve should be placed inline with the fuel evap charcoal canister.Has anyone done this?Don't know if it would really matter but i know on some vehicles if you don't have the gas cap tight the computer will send a code so maybe having boost pressure in the canister might send a emissions code? <br>
"stupid monkey"
hehe, its back from the dead! so, does the 2.4l need a check valve? if it doesnt read boost then it wont need one, right? how long would the map sensor last doing it this way? im tryin to figure out what all i need b4 i install my stuff this winter. <br>
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
18psi and no check valve, never thrown a code in my life. it all depends on the car I guess but I've never had a problem. I just find this all interesting.
GM uses a check valve in the vacuum line on many cars with vacuum cruise control and/or vacuum heater controls. The main goal is to keep the MAP sensor from being exposed to pressures above its maximum rated pressure. Using 2 or 3 check valves to vent excessive pressure is a good way to do this job. I'd use a boost gauge Teed in with the MAP line after all the check valves so I could see what the sensor is exposed to. If you place the check valve inline so it blocks boost to the MAP, you will need some method to vent the MAP line to atmosphere after the check valve seals. Otherwise you may end up with pressure trapped between the valve and MAP sensor.
-->Slow
no check vavle on my 4.5psi'd 2.4l.
<br>
i installed a check valve because i keep getting a map error code .... well still getting it and Ive installed 2 different maps so i still dunno whats up with that lol, i think im gonna get me one of them obd II diagnostic things you can buy on ebay for like 100 and hook up threw the cars port and then see whats going on threw a PC, i herd you can even self dyno the car this way,though im sure its not accurate but maybe good for comparing befores and afters of mods
also i only have one check valve so that could be why im still getting the code though didn't know i had to put more then one, but mine is set up just like the picture
hahah holy thread resurrection bataman! I remember making this a while ago, nice to see its still being looked at
<br>
<b>---------------------------------------------------------
<br>
2004 SRT-4
<img src="http://members.cox.net/buffaluphagus/SRTKOO.GIF">
</b>
orangez-= try taking off your EGR simulator . see if the code goes away for the MAP.
(5k boosted non check vavled miled with out a Check engine light) <br>
97blkZ24 wrote:where can u get a "check valve"
Just about any auto parts store should carry them. <br>
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
ok, i got this problem. I have 0 vacuum at idle, the car id dumping fuel left and right and smoking horribly. I am getting a map/baro high voltage code and misfire which i think is from the constant fuel dumping. Now i was thinking since the car is seeing 0 vac at idle, maybe this check valve might help. I have searched for a vac leak with no luck. everything is hooked up correctly. Gonna give it a whirl tomorrow... i sure hope this fixes my problem.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/StylezTA
