Dan Pelter wrote:I never said anyone said it doesnt work. I just said it works. That doesn't insinuate someone said otherwise. I am merely stating there are quite a few people who have them and they are great kits. They are very effective. Also not saying I would recommend it over one right off a header either. You read into messages too much.
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Author: Dan Pelter
Date: 08-22-04 12:50 PM
You can argue all you want until you are blue in the face. It's useless because there is more then enough proof that the system works. No matter how ghetto or stupid it may seem it is proven to be a good setup.
then why would you even mention PROOF of the system working or not...
i'm not reading into messages, i reading EXACTLY what you wrote.
you said it works, we see it works... so as my last post stated
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"whi (who)TF said anything about "it doesnt work"
people here are posting about whats more efficient and what not... a ENTIRELY different subject....
no one said it doesnt work, hence there was really no reason for you to be saying,
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because there is more then enough proof that the system works
no one ever said it didnt.
you just didnt read in full what you wrote nor anyone wrote else properly.
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you are just a retarded meathead. I can understand reading comprehension is beyond you.
hmmm name calling....
very mature.... but typical of yourself....
you cant even comprehend what you, yourself wrote.....
like said once more, no one asked for any proof of did the system work.... we alllllll already knew it worked...
so what are you gonna call me next dan.... a goon? if it makes you feel better, call me a dumb jock as well.
internet steroids and name calling is always good when you dont have anything legit to say.
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i saw this setup on a 2002 firebird. he was running the low boost setup with methanol injection, and man did it haul @!#$.
have a look at the faq on the sts site, very informative.
first off, heat doesnt make boost. sure hot air takes up more room, but what turns the impeller??? particals of air, not empty space. doesnt matter if the particals moving faster and more spread out.
the long charger pipe is the intercooler so to speak. the calculations on the sts site show its about 50% efficient. and the long pipe has less pressure drop than an intercooler, and when you figure out volume of an intercooler, it works out to be close to the same as the charger pipe. and from what it says, its about 3/4lb drop from the turbo to the intake.
as for cracking the housing, give this a try, take a hot cast iron frying pan and drop a bit of water on it and see if it cracks. to cool the housing fast enough to crack it, you would need to fully submerge it into an almost freezing puddle and leave it there for a while. and as for taking on water, its no different than a colt air intake.
now the turbo itself is a supposivly a special purpose built for remote mount setups. i did find out it is a garrent gt. i figure something like a t25 from a tgp would work perfectly for a low boost setup.
ive been looking into this a lot for my 86z24. there is a lot of work and money for a custom underhood turbo setup for a v6. you need a custom crossover pipe, rear manifold, charger pipes, relocate the battery, lose the washer fluid tank, ect, and when its all done, its rather cramped. now if i was to remote mount, i would need a custom charger pipe (or modify an off the shelf exaust system), the oil lines and scavaging pump (to get oil back to the motor). its a lot more simple, easy to remove and install, and doesnt require an intercooler.
for a small motor like a 4 cyl, i likely wouldnt go this route being there is lots of room under the hood. for a bigger motor (like a v6 cavy) or something like an v8 f body, this is a great route to go. <br>
I saw that kit on a web site like two weeks ago and I though it was cool I just woundered how it would work if it was good or bad and I was also interested in if there would be a itercooler setup that would work very good or not I have been playing with the Idea of doing this to a 94 z28 I just got. <br>
99Z24 Turbocharged (Project Mayhem)
GO BIG OR GO HOME!
im very intrested in this might be cool to try it out. couldnt u just have a second oil reserve close to the turbo so it would get to it faster. sorry if i sounds stupid just tryn to think of better ways to get oil to trubo. <br>
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/h8hondaz/sig.jpg">
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89JYturbo
Senior Member
Just got back from the track. I ran at Maple Grove's friday night grudge match (nice name for a test'n'tune). I was pretty happy with the results:
Pass 1- 14.956@93.57, 2.416 60ft
Pass 2- 14.794@94.19, 2.333 60ft
I am curious what I could run if I could get a respectable 60ft time- I suspect mid-low 14s. I never drag raced FWD before, and it is very hard to launch. I am not very good with RWD, and even worse with FWD! Even still, it should be capable of surprising a lot of people. Remember, this is a daily driver with 174k, and a turbo system built in approx 24hrs. I am tempted to install those 24# SVO injectors I have and turn the boost to maybe 10 or 12PSI. I really want the high 13s to show my ford buddies that an old cavalier can put the hurt on a 5.0!
Oh yes, and what about my T4 conversion kit I bought off eBay- I could convert the turbo to a hybrid T3/T4. That should help it run better as well.
Last edited by 89JYturbo on 05-08-2004 at 03:02 AM
apparently no one saw this post in the original thread. How can you say this system doesnt work very well? he put down 14.9 on a car that at best ran a low 16. Thats equal to the GM supercharger. And prolly cost a ton less. This is a cool idea and obviously one that works very well. Good job.
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2006 Black Cobalt SS Supercharged G85
13.91@102.77
sharkey wrote:
have a look at the faq on the sts site, very informative.
first off, heat doesnt make boost. sure hot air takes up more room, but what turns the impeller??? particals of air, not empty space. doesnt matter if the particals moving faster and more spread out.
i dont know what physics class you took but the several i took state that each mol (6.022 X 10^23 molecules, go Avogadro!!) of gas at 1 atm and room temp will be 22.4L. now with gas laws the VOLUME of that paticular gas will go up in a ratio common to temp. so therefore the amount of molecules that will bemoving those fans that you talk about will in fact taking up more space and therefore moving the blades faster. the only way you will be able to spin the blades of that turbo with any efficiency that pipe wil have to be tiny. infact i think the optimal setup would have a pipe that reduces in diameter as the pipe gets closer to the turbo. therefore keeping velocity up as volume decreases. that might be an expensive piece of pipe. like i said yes i never doubt it will work, but it will never work as well. there is just better ways to take advantage of heat (aka right off the manifold)
to test your theory against mine and that of the rest of society will be to take a zip lock baggie and blow in it. seal it and put it in the freezer. it will get smaller... <br>
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
i am not trying to impress you im am trying to teach you btw <br>
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
where can I get one of those oil pumps? That seems as though it would solve a lot of problems. <br>
Cardomain|
Myspace
Steve W
Your buddy didn't have an 89 Eagle Talon. They weren't made until the 1990 model year. <br>
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/kaoz78/personal_pic.jpg">
lol, honestly one thing that i dont like about the deal. as soon as people find out you got one there, or someone sees it. your gonna get someone who can come alone with a cordless sawz-all and nip it right off there. bye bye turbo haha. i mean its not too likely but it is very possible. <br>
'95 2.2 125K miles - T3 intercooled 7psi
Its not the most effective system, and for a jbody, when there are already aftermarket turbos available, i don't see the point unless you want more of a sleeper install or want to be able to build your own set up for cheaper. No one can deny that a system like this would be cheaper to build from scratch than a manifold-based system.
For all its inefficiency, keep in mind that they use a smaller a.r. turbo in order to minimized spool problems. The shape of the housing, and how it funnels from a large opening to a small one is what makes up for the velocity loss. Heat does help to spin the turbine but in the end, the exhaust pressure itself is still the primary factor.
Now, these kits can make good power for several reasons that are listed on sts' site. First, the turbo itself stays cooler, and is cooled by airflow under the car (hence, the air coming out of it is cooler and more dense. Then, the long charge pipes going back to the throttlebody act as an intercooler. Plus, the spool issue is further resolved because the mounting position allows what would be the downpipe to be a perfectly straight exit, with almost no hindrance to exhaust out-flow whatsoever.
As long as you could cover the turbo and not have the filter exposed to water as much as it would be in the positions that sts mounts it i think its a solid system. Likewise some more shielding for the oil lines and scavenge pump would be nice.
Considering that a system like this could be built by just about anyone with a modicum of ability, and the help of their local meineke, for way less than $2000. Use a used turbo thats in good condition and you can chop that drastically.
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Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
I think it is an awesome idea.
I wonder who muhc it costs to get a pipe with a flange for the turbo. Just unbolt muffler, weld on flange/turbo, drill oil pan, install oil pumpe, run oil lines, run intake piping, shield the whole thing. DONE
hahahha
if I were to put my turbo, I would have put it just before the rear cross arm because it's not so close to the gas tank. You don't want anything like "KABOOOOOOOOOOOM". Also, if I was the passenger, I will fight my life over the shotgun seat or the driver's seat. <br>
I think you should run the exhaust through the roll bars and lay the turbo in the floorboard behind the driver. This way, in the wintertime, you would have instant heat when you have to drive to work on those snowy days...
Just being silly...
Wow, back from the dead. Cool thread though. Just noticed how the guy with the remote mount turbo took it to Maple Grove. I've been there several times. I wonder how close the guy lives to me. I'd like to chat with him. <br>
<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Jbeier_sig2.JPG>
just so that everyone knows STS turbo systems means Squires Turbo Systems. i know one of there mechanics he drives an Integra Type R with an LS block ( so type R ls vtec) and has methenol injection....... pretty sweet setup............. <br>
14.164@95.74
I know it wouldnt be as efficient, but for the hydro lock issue, y couldnt you just re route the intake to some where safer. ie, hummer h1 has the tall stack, not saying that you should use a huge intake out the top of your car, but take it back up to the engine bay ???? wouldnt this solve your problems, or stop being cheep and do it right! <br>
'98 fire
do it the right way. That is one of those modifications that you do to hopefully do somthing good (you know the crossing your fingers mods). Everyone has done plenty of those and we know how many times that actually works. Almost never. Somthing is bound to go very wrong with that.
I saw the sts on two guys garage to day. They put it on the dyno and on 5 psi they got over 100 hp, they also said turbo lag was almost no existant.
And you could move that cat to right infront of the exhaust housing. this would also help spooling.
^^Home made sig^^ ghetto, I know.
http://members.cardomain.com/blackoutfire
I'm calling BS on the 5 psi for 100hp. For anything, I don't think turbo is that efficient unless you get a big ass turbocharger, and I mean BIGGGGGG.
I'm sure that it works and everything but my biggest worrya would be Hydrolock.... Sunny dry day car only.... Where's the fun in that.
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