ok just curious since the subject of the MAP sensor is here, i dont have the SAFC but with my cams my idle voltage from the MAP is 2.8V and 60 kpa at 1300 ft elevation. is that a good thing or bad thing?
oh and waht is a SAFC?
thanks
04 sunfire auto 16.3@82.5.................for now
SAFC is something like Super Airflow converter. It changes the voltage the computer sees from the map sensor. If you decrease the voltage by say 10%, the computer will decrease the amount of fuel by 10%. You can go + or - 50%.
As for the voltage... I think that is quite high. A stock ecotec was tested around 1.4? Andy tested it and I can't recall exactly what the voltage was.
Sounds a little high. The elevation is roughly 716 feet above sea level by my house. Lower altitude = higher pressure = higher voltage. Due to this, I'd have to guess that you're running really fricken rich. Are you getting a CEL? Have you scanned for codes? P0108?
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">
yes im running really rich at WOT but at idle im at 14.6:1 still stock
the reason i do get a CEL is for misfire code but there is a rich code in there PO172
do you think this resistor trick would help me out any then with the richness anyways?
thanks again
04 sunfire auto 16.3@82.5.................for now
04eco (roy) wrote:yes im running really rich at WOT but at idle im at 14.6:1 still stock
the reason i do get a CEL is for misfire code but there is a rich code in there PO172
do you think this resistor trick would help me out any then with the richness anyways?
thanks again
Where are you measuring your AF reading of 14.6 from? Is that from the ECU using an OBD scan tool? If so, that's a narrowband reading that you cannot rely on at all. Then again, since your MAP voltage is so high, you might be dumping so much fuel that your O2 sensor is thinking you're running lean. WAY too much fuel = thinks it's lean.
The resistor trick might still be able to help you. The point of hooking it between the 5 volt reference and the MAP output is to boost voltage. In theory, you can connect the resistor to ground and the MAP output to pull voltage away from the signal. Give it a shot.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">
well im sure a resitor is like under $5 so i can give it a try wont hurt nothing if it doesnt work.
would you reccomend the 300 Ohm or just try a few different ones?
thanks and ill let ya know what i find out with it
roy wrote:well im sure a resitor is like under $5 so i can give it a try wont hurt nothing if it doesnt work.
would you reccomend the 300 Ohm or just try a few different ones?
thanks and ill let ya know what i find out with it
Unless you have a way of measuring your map voltage from the ecu (OBD scan tool), don't even attempt this.
Like I said in my E-Manage thread, it's different for almost every car so the 330 ohm (300 is not a standard size) doesn't work for every car.. If you have a tool to check the voltage, yes, you should purchase a bunch of different resistors. It takes roughly 100th of a cent to make one of these things so you'll get away with getting them for probably 10 cents a piece. get a bunch of different ones between 270-1000 ohms and try that.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">
this is kinda off topic but maybe you guys can help me out ok heres the deal im obviously boosted and running an safc2 with 42lb injectors and stock fpr with a walbro in the tank i have my sensor setting set to pressure since maps work off pressure and my sensor numbers at 5 in and 5 out with -50 at 800-2200 my car will sit and idle all day long and pull 14-15s on the wideband perfectly fine with no check engine lights dont get check engine lights anymore no matter how i drive the car but no matter if im beating it or driving fine as soon as i take my foot of the gas my wide band will read lean and sometimes just say air but when i come up to a stop and push the clutch in and come to a complete stop the car will idle for a couple of seconds then die and its getting really annoying and it used to bog out and about die but catch itself when i would give it gas from a take off and only in first gear when i mash it it will brake up then go like hell and when i try to free rev it at about 3500 rpm it bogs and brakes up terribily. but in second and 3rd it will pull 10-12.5 on the widebane when im in it and when im driving fine it will pull 14-15s thanks for the info if you guys have any.
Go and have it tunes on a dyno. I'm positive that anyone that is any good at tuning cars will be able to get it to run perfect from dyno tuning it. I'm pretty sure i'd be able to atleast.
mr pute i got mine running good 2, 330ohm resistors in series the lowest it goes on deceleration now is 0.7 volts instead of 0 .475v i got my fpr, and rk engine mounts today too yay thanks A+performance.com for the @!#$in wicked shipping times on the mounts you guys rock!!!!!
"dude, thats a girls car"
oh i was definitely waiting to even attempt this until i got ahold of the a Tech 2 again.
and it was said i should be looking at 1.4V for stock reading right? so would you think should aim for that number?
much appreciated for all the help good job on the resistor idea to
Sorry to bring this back from the dead. I have been following Craig's (Arnjolt) progress with the SAFC2 on the Eco and I think this is the route I want to take. I was wondering though, will I be able to pull enough fuel with the SAFC 2 and 35 lb injectors to have a somewhat normal operation? I want to learn how to use the unit before I put anything else on the car. I realize I might not be able to get it to "stock smoothness" but will I be able to get close? Thanks for any input guys.
i dont see why you wound'nt be able to my safc was able to pull enough fuel and run with a smooth idle with 42lb injectors
good stuff....thats what I was hoping to hear. I'm sure you guys will be hearing a million boost-related questions from me soon.....
Thanks!
Does the wattage of the 330 ohm resistor matter? I saw 2 at radio shack. 1/4 and 1/2 watts.
Wattage doesn't matter. Buy both anyway. Experiment.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">
Is the color coding correct as well? Just splice the resistor between the green and gray wire?
I have tried the Haas alternative and it sucked. Not only isit made for cars with map voltage at 3.4 volts and below, but it is also $150
It isn't really Haas's either as someone mentioned, it comes from Comptech. Hass just throws it in with their kit.
The color coding is absolutely correct. "Bridge" the two wires together that are NOT ground with the resistor.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">
Can someone please confirm the two Wire names that I should be looking for when soldering in the resistor in question? Im using an '02 Alero GX with the L61 Ecotec, and worry that the wire colours might be different from the Jbody's. I have the GM PCM wiring diagram, so its just a matter of knowing which wires to look for by title, and not by colour. Thanks.
Cheers
PLEASE Answer my question, im at the shop right now and they need to know which wires to bridge the resistor too as there are multiple grey wires on the pcm. WHICH WIRES AM I LOOKIN FOR (TITLES PLEASE - NO COLOURS)
You have three wires:
5 volts
sensor output
ground
What are you putting the resistor at the PCM? Put it at the sensor instead.
The international color for ground is BLACK. You should know this as should everyone else in the world.
Connect the two wires that are not black. Simple as that.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/mrpute"><img src="http://www.j-bom.com/images/sigs/putesig.jpg">
I realize that black is always ground, but the installer was thinkin about doin it at the pcm, thus all the confusion. Now i realize this may come across as a stupid question and Im embarassed to ask it, but where can I locate the sensor (im on 3 hrs sleep, and dont have room for error :p)
