2.2 or 2.4 Gm Supercharger - Boost Forum
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Hey guys I've just sold my civic si and now i'm going to be getting a cavalier. Now I live in toronto,Ontario and I can't order the supercharger online, I just want to know from what you guys seen which supercharger is better I'm not sure if there is any difference, but mostly i'm looking for the cheaper one, Has anyone here had to go to a GM Dealer and order the part directly and what is the cost difference? Thanks Ben!
I know that, I havent bought one yet because I wanted to see which one most people would recommned
well, if you have the 2.2 eco, then you have to buy the 2.2 eco charger, if you have the ld9, then you have to buy the 2.4 charger, pretty easy to figure out....
^ thats not what hes asking.. he knows what charger goes with which engine..
let me rephrase his post in understandable english:
"i sold my civic, so now i want to buy a cavalier. I definitely want to supercharge it, and i know you can supercharge both the 2.4 and the 2.2 eco. which cav do you guys think i would be better off with?"
well heres my opinion, i would definitely go with the 2.2 eco, the power difference between the two when supercharged is minimal. and the eco is a newer engine, thus it will probably have less miles, and would be more reliable as well. The only downside is that the 2.2 charge is gonna run you a bit more than the 2.4 charger
The m45 supercharger kit is only available for the LD9 (2.4L) and the m62 kit is only available for the ECO. m62 > m45. The m45 is too undersized for the 2.4L, as it is more just for a little extra power. For both engines moderately to heavily modified, the m62 powered ECO destroys the m45 powered LD9. There have been people that were working on making m62 and m90 intake manifolds for the 2.4L, but you would still have to source all of the other parts yourself. I would suggest sticking with the 2.2L ECO though.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
ECO is plug and play while LD9 is only plug and play from 2000 up
Definitely go for the ecotec (2.2L)
" To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous. "
Take it from experience. The ld9 is a hassle in so many ways go with the ecotec. I have already had to replace two of these motors in the same car then I bought one from the manufacturer with the 5 year 100,000 mile warranty and it is having problems already. Finding Reliable parts for the ld9 is not that easy either. Or if you decide to turbo the car in the future you have many options to do that. My vote is the ecotec. Good Luck.
Question? If you want reliable everyday performance, why would you go from a civ-si to a cavy? Not trying to hate on the cavy, they are great and fun car (I own three) but I think you would get more from the civic.
So I'm going to check out a 03 z24 thats a ecotec engine right? Well my civic was turbo'd and was getting to much bull@!#$ from cops in my city, I've seen how the supercharger looks NOTHING like any aftermarket turbo set-up.
and Basically I was looking to get a cav because this supercharger install seemed to be simple, I mean i'm going to get it done at a gm dealer but i mean it seemed to be the most less hassle, basically I just want it to be pushing at least 190hp, It is going to be my daily driver still.
I would consider finding a good 2000-2002 ld9. For the reason of the parts in general being cheaper. You can find whole wrecked cars with the ld9 for really cheap. You could probably find a good running ld9 and 2 wrecked parts cars for future repairs.
Its always nice to have an extra motor and tranny lying around.
The design flaws I have noticed with the LD9 is the head gasket and general over heating issues. Something which a functional hood scoop and an oil cooler would probably take care of. It has this aluminum head with a cast iron block so the metals expand at different rates. Any sort of method of keeping this temperature variance at a minimum will increase the life of the head gasket but you will need to get a new one eventually. The other problem from overheating is the timing chain it will get loose and you'll throw a rod through the side of the block. Ive known 3 people personally who have done that. I would get this checked out and replaced. However with a tight chain and an oil cooler I don't think it would have this problem. If you really wanted adding cooling the 180 thermostat and the functional hood scoop would help some, header wrap too if you wanted to go all out.
However I suppose im coming from a biased opinion as this is what im looking to do to my 98 sunfire gt.
The eco has its reliability advantages but it and its blower come with a price. I got my 98 GT cause I knew it would be cheap,and parts would be cheap. I plan on keeping my car totally stock except for the supercharger and its reliability requirements. Keeping the stock air box does hurt performance, but it looks a lot more factory under the hood then this big bright chrome intake and loud exhaust attract big attention in the first place so do keep that in mind.
Good luck with the project as there is truly nothing like a blowjob.
Just figured i would throw this out there. My car is for sale. 2002 z24. as i said before it has a brand new ld9 motor in it. maybe 350 broken highway miles on it. A Brand new Clutch and a used transmission with 50,000 miles on it. I have a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on the engine. the car has a drift body kit, type 2 rear bumper, 3a racing exhaust, ram air carbon fiber hood meagan racing wing, rksport coilovers, 18 inch konig unknowns, nexen 3000 tires with about 60 or 70% of tread life. Nothing is done to the interior except for EVERYTHING has been removed as that is the next step for this car. I have a dual exhuast from magnaflow that has not been installed. I sold the mufflers because I was going to buy carbon fiber mufflers. Reason for selling, I am probably going to get an STI. I want the performance and the "Four" doors. I have a son that turned two Jan. 3 and baby on the way due in March. sorry didnt mean to get off the subject but let me know if your interested or know somebody that is. I will try and get some pics posted somewhere.
T.A.S.R.- Tuner Against Street Racing. Take it to the track!
So it's not just a simple buy the SC put it on and drive away? Sorry for being so stupid on the matter but could someone list everything I need to do.
Step one get the SC and then from there i'm lost lol
Looks to me like you're in Toronto, Ben. I'm your s/c install pro in the GTA
I can do your reflash too.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
Shane Stone
If you are having overheating issues YOU have a problem. It has nothing to do with the design of the hood the engine or the cooling system.
You said
"The other problem from overheating is the timing chain it will get loose and you'll throw a rod through the side of the block. Ive known 3 people personally who have done that. I would get this checked out and replaced. However with a tight chain and an oil cooler I don't think it would have this problem."
This is complete BS and you don't have a clue what you are talking about. The timing chain becoming loose is no more of a concern on this engine than any other engine with a timing chain and tensioner setup. Even if you chain snapped in two which I doubt has ever happend to anyone with a 2.4 it still would not cause the conecting rod to get thrown out of the block. There is physically no possible way for that to happen.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Dude I know way more about 2.4l engines than you. I am well aware of what causes a 2.4 to put a rod through the block and loose timing chains do not cause rods to go through the block PERIOD!
Thanks but i have known for along time that different metals expand at different rates. That is nothing new to me.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
How would you know what I know ? Of a level of knowledge that's based on your own personal assumptions, and by your own standards ? Please be logical..
the only issue i ever heard of with timing belts or chains breaking, snapping, or becoming loose was the problems with the valves coming in contact with the pistons. it throws the cam timing away and basically doesnt spin them at all and thus leaves the valves open and WAM they hit.
ive personally never had an issue with the timing chains on the 2.4, nor have i ever found it to be an issue on any one of the several 2.4 cars ive R&R'd the engines in. i have had an instance with my 97z that caused the valves to hit the pistons though (it was something to do with the exhuast cam) and it never threw a rod because of it.
ive never personally had an issue with the head gasket on a 2.4 either, same goes with the ones ive worked on as well.
between my dad and i we own 3 3rd gen cavaliers all of which needed at least one engine at some point in their lives. here's the reason's why though:
dad's 00 Z- bought it with a blown engine
my 97z- i beat the piss out of it all the time, ended up doing a lot of things to fix it, but the things that most definatly stayed together were the head gasket and the timing chain.
my 98z- bought it with a blown engine.
Shane Stone wrote:How would you know what I know ? Of a level of knowledge that's based on your own personal assumptions, and by your own standards ? Please be logical..
It is aparent that if you knew 2.4l engine or any engine really you would not be spouting off with the misinformation that you are. I really do not have the time to go into detail now because I am at work otherwise I would.
I am not trying to be a dick but the fact that you want to argue with me is frustrating since you know so little.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:24 AM
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Timing chains breaking, as it was said, would only cause our interference engines to allow the valves to hit the pistons, causing major head/valve/piston damage, but not breaking a rod and causing it to be thrown through the block..
Your lack of knowledge is hilarious. You have no idea what you're talking about. Wow, you can look up the LD9 on Wikipedia, and find out that the QUAD 4 had issues with heagaskets blowing and timing chains snapping. The current LD9 rarely has these issues because it has a better headgasket and a correctly sized timing chain.
A timing chain breaking does NOT cause rod failure. If you knew anything remotely about the 2.4L TWIN CAM engine, you'd know this. Please refrain from typing until you obtain true information. All the links you posted don't back up your timing chain-->rod through block argument whatsoever.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
636 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
Shane Stone wrote:I would consider finding a good 2000-2002 ld9. For the reason of the parts in general being cheaper. You can find whole wrecked cars with the ld9 for really cheap. You could probably find a good running ld9 and 2 wrecked parts cars for future repairs.
Its always nice to have an extra motor and tranny lying around.
The design flaws I have noticed with the LD9 is the head gasket and general over heating issues. Something which a functional hood scoop and an oil cooler would probably take care of. It has this aluminum head with a cast iron block so the metals expand at different rates. Any sort of method of keeping this temperature variance at a minimum will increase the life of the head gasket but you will need to get a new one eventually. The other problem from overheating is the timing chain it will get loose and you'll throw a rod through the side of the block. Ive known 3 people personally who have done that. I would get this checked out and replaced. However with a tight chain and an oil cooler I don't think it would have this problem. If you really wanted adding cooling the 180 thermostat and the functional hood scoop would help some, header wrap too if you wanted to go all out.
However I suppose im coming from a biased opinion as this is what im looking to do to my 98 sunfire gt.
The eco has its reliability advantages but it and its blower come with a price. I got my 98 GT cause I knew it would be cheap,and parts would be cheap. I plan on keeping my car totally stock except for the supercharger and its reliability requirements. Keeping the stock air box does hurt performance, but it looks a lot more factory under the hood then this big bright chrome intake and loud exhaust attract big attention in the first place so do keep that in mind.
Good luck with the project as there is truly nothing like a blowjob.
An oil cooler isn't necessary unless the oil reaches criical temperatures (FYI 99.9% of oil cooled turbocharged LD9s don't even need it). Please explain how a "functional hood scop" decreases engine temps. If anything, it will only decrease cylinder temps (and marginally at that).
if the timing chain is "loose", then it is almost guaranteed you have a bad timing chain tensioner or you aren't getting enough oil pressure to the tensioner. Saying the engine "overheated" causing the chain to become loose is just plain silly.
I thought the stock thermostat temp was 180*...unless it was just the stock Quad 4 thermostats. Anyways, autozone and advance both show 180* as stock temp.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=133&PTSet=A
http://www.autozone.com/N,16300047//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
As was stated before, the Quad 4s were known more for cracked heads and leaking head gaskets. The LD9 was an improvement in that respect.
THE major design flaws of the LD9 engine are the oil pump/balance shaft assembly, as well as the notorious spun #3 rod bearing. You can nit pick other things, but when it comes down to it, those are its main problems to be addressed.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
^^^^ Well said.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
k soooo.......... answer the guys dam questions he made the thread for.... wtf.
when you go to the dealership you are not going to just order the supercharger, there are other parts that are required as well. you order the "kit" which should come with pretty much everything you need for the install. so..
Step 1: Go to your local dealership and order the entire charger kit, which will come with all the parts needed for the install (intake, charger, etc.) I would get the part number for the charger b4 you go to the dealer to ensure that you are getting the kit not just the charger when they order it.
Step 2: Get the charger and all accessories installed by someone who knows what they are doing (Blownblackz will prolly be way less than half the price that the dealer will charge you for the install)
Step 3: You need to get your ECM reflashed.
Step 4: Put the pedal to the floor and commence as necessary.
I wanna go fast!!
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