I agree with Lenko.
I bought an Interceptor with the two pots, have the TC delay all the way up which seems to create a virtual 5th gear.
I've had the line pressure set for 75percent since I installed it about 5 years ago and no a single problem at all.
It still works great and still go drag racing with it and is my daily driver.
I've put over 100,000 miles on the car with the 2 pot interceptor and again, never a problem with the product.
I think he's blowing smoke because all 4t40e trannies are created the same with no differences in the wiring or electronics from year to year.
Just thought I'd add and reinforce what Mr. Lenko stated.
Misnblu
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Thank you FF22. I thought there was more involved than just a couple of linear taper pots.
Being in electronics for 30 years, didn't post this as I wasn't completely sure but knew, deep inside that there was more involved to the Interceptor.
Misnblu
Btw, you can get a couple of linear taper post, 2 watt style w/ 1/4 inch knobs installed in the dash to run the Interceptor. I've never done this (and am more than capable) because I'm more than happy with the settings and never have needed to play with the settings whatsoever.
Why would you need to change the settings??
Dumb question I know but that's just too much gadgetry.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
for the same reason why some people prefer to go with the BnM over the autotrans. the BnM is adjustable from inside the car. some people may turn the thing off completely if some one else is driving the car (GF/ Wife/ Mother/ ETC), some people like to increase it only while racing andhave it closer to stock for the street. by having something that is basically combining the two (the autotrans and the BnM) you get the best for both worlds in one unit.
thats my plan for all of this.
i want it to be able to:
-increase line pressure from inside the vehicle
-decrease TC delay from inside the vehicle
- be easy to install
- have an "off" switch for when it isnt in use so you dont have to decrease the pots to zero to get stock performance.
if you look at the forum posts on both the autotrans and the BnM, people who love one over the other love things about their pick that the other just doesnt have.
people like the BnM cause its cheaper, has 2 settings and an off switch.
people like the autotrans cause its plug n play install, line pressure and TC are fully adjustable to the users style, not just set by the manufacturer like the BnM.
if i can combine these things into one unit, then i believe this would be the prefered unit.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
hows it coming along? let us all know whats happening
havent had the time to get that far into it yet. plus im still waiting on getting my hands on an interceptor or some one posting up pics of theirs with some electrical measurments. the pics posted up so far are a good help, but without having one to tear down yet, its going to be a while.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
Dayton86 wrote:http://www.zoom-tech.com/downloads/support/tranxpages/gm/GM-4T40E.pdf
maybe there is something useful, just a thought
Nice fins there.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
that will help alot. i might put this project off until im back in school and see if i can get my teachers to help me
got use whats available to you.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
i was looking for something else when i ran across it. i cant make too much of it mainly because i dont have the time or paitence enough to sit still. good luck man.
any chances of making one for a 3 spd???
now don get mad at me if i am wrong but i believe unlike the 4 speed the 3 speed is hydralically controlled and they make shiftkits for it. but dont quote me, madjack is the man on the 3 spped.
they do make shift kits for both as far as i know, who makes it i dont know because i have never looked.
the 3 speed auto is a mechanical tranny, not electric, so a tranny hack like this can not be done because there is no electrical system to add resistance to and increase the line pressure.
so in short , your SOL with the 3 speed, but you can get a shift kit for them and do the transmission internals.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
I finally got my used Interceptor... but it's for the 4T65E... not the 4T40E...
(There's a GTP motor and trans going into my car.. so... )
I don't know if it would be any good to you?
I have an interceptor (aka Granatelli Trans Tuner) on my car. Do you know what wires should be checked for resistance? I'd like to help you get the numbers you need.
Check out my Part Out List!! Great Prices !!
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/detail/52925/
I have an Interceptor laying around and no car to use it on (I don't think my little sis would appreciate it lol). PM me
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
The backside of the circuit board has no componets. This means the entire circuit is discrete componets which can be easily purchased and duplicated. That is why they epoxied over everything they could. Still they didn't do enough to protect the design. I would have dunked the whole deal in epoxy to protect the fact that at mass manufacture there is only about 20 bucks of raw parts excluding what the delphi connectors cost.
The funny part is that only about 4 of the wires are even tapped and most of them pass right through the unit.
Just desolder everything and there is software on the web that you can pretty much copy the blank circuit board into. Then you upload the design on the web and the company makes the boards for you. Ships them right out.
As for the wiring just keep note when you take it fully apart.
For the discrete componets, desolder and test each. The trims all you need is the range and buy similar ones online. Resistors can be tested with any DMM on the market. Caps can actually be tested but you might have to find a lab with equipment to test them. OR put them in a circuit with a known resistor and look at the frequeny of the output with a oscope. There is a formula to relate a R and a C. It is called a resonance circuit I think. The formula shouldn't be to bad. Plug in the R and the Output Freq and boom! That is a way to test a cap. The diodes I dunno about. Just get generic ones. Even though they went out of the way to coat the ID of each part you should be able to get it pretty soon. Transistors can be tested for NPN or PNP in some digital multimeters. Mine does it.
I mean we are looking at what? 3 transistors, 2 variable resistors, 2 capacitors, 6 resistors, 5 diodes... I got a couple more parts I am not sure on like TH1 which I think is a diode by its shape. If you have trouble ID'ing look at the silk screening on the board or try and chip off some of the epoxy.
By the way, I can much tell the difference from the 4T40E version from the 4L60E version. If there is one it is in the value of one of the parts.
I *can't* tell much diff.....
Finally took mine apart
There's three wires. None are "intercepted"... just tapped.
The red wire attaches to pin E - Transmission Solenoid Power.
The white wire attaches to pin D - Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid Valve Controlled Ground.
The orange wire attaches to pin C - Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid Controlled Power Feed.
A better view of the circuit:
Remember that mine is a 4T65E model... it's also only got the one pot on the back... even though both are inside the case. Not sure if there's a difference or not.
RV1 is a 1M pot. The line pressure adjustment dial, RV2 is a 5K pot. Not much else I can see without trying to scratch off the black poo.
Oh, forgot to mention... White wire goes to "Bottom" on board. Orange to "Top". Red to "12V". There isn't anything attached to "PCM"
GO LENKO!
thats a huge step forward in the rebuild. i will be going back to school soon for a brand new semester, im sure i can get my instructors to help me out with this too. also, i will have access to a crap load of equipment and also a huge amount of formulas. i may even be able to get my hands on some boards that could be used for a prototype production.
to be honest with you, i dont think the resistors on the board are there for much more than protection of the capacitors and for the function and power of the actuall board, and not so much the function of the pots and adding resistance to the transmission.
i knew there would only be a few leads tapped off. most of the leads would go straight through and the only leads that should matter to tap off are the leads that the B+M unit is tapping.
i would assume that white wire to be a ground wire, and will varrify that eventually with looking at the 20-pin connector diagram that you, lenko, posted up in another thread.
it would be interesting to see the ohmic readings of the B+M unit too and compare.
1997 RedR - ZedR
I got all the epoxi off of mine. Let me know if you want pics.
If you're still looking for one for a 4T40E, I've got one laying around with no car to go on. PM me.
whitegoose( RedR-ZedR)....I PM'ed you. We will see from here.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
