Taetsch Z-24 wrote:Wade Jarvis wrote:Matt Gorman(ECOjunkk) wrote:when im on the freeway going about 65-80(between there) theres a moaning/bearing noise when let off the gas-thast the TOB correct because as you describe wade, my car is doing the exact same thing
I am a little lost as my problem has nothing to do with a noise like you describe. My clutch was just not fully relasing and it kept getting air in the line.
FDR is hurt. look up (online) how to shim up a Rear Diff., how and why it makes noise. and then think about a FWD car.
my F23 did this before i replaced it at 121K
Chris
Wade Jarvis wrote:Well I got pics of both parts side by side. I will post those up later. The new master is in and bled but the clutch is still not fully releasing. I am getting a sloid fluid stream every time I open the bleeder to I highly doubt I still have air in the line.
I am going to pull of the inspection cover tonight and check the tq on the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Going to tq them to 24 ft lbs.
What seems weird to me is that with the clutch pedal pushed in in 1st gear at idle the car does not move forward but if I rev the engine with the clutch pedal still pushed in it starts to move forward until the rpms drop. Any ideas on why.
John Higgins wrote:Wade Jarvis wrote:Well I got pics of both parts side by side. I will post those up later. The new master is in and bled but the clutch is still not fully releasing. I am getting a sloid fluid stream every time I open the bleeder to I highly doubt I still have air in the line.
I am going to pull of the inspection cover tonight and check the tq on the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Going to tq them to 24 ft lbs.
What seems weird to me is that with the clutch pedal pushed in in 1st gear at idle the car does not move forward but if I rev the engine with the clutch pedal still pushed in it starts to move forward until the rpms drop. Any ideas on why.
When you are reving the motor force takes over everything pushes out, like the pressure plate. This si sooo exactly what happened with my car. I took the same steps as you.
z yaaaa wrote:HOLY SH!T WADE!!!! when we spoke on the phone i had no idea the bolts were THAT loose!!! i was figuring hmmppf a couple threads out, not THAT horrible...but then see that pic. thats crazy, your lucky as hell you found this problem before it became something a LOT worse!
so did it fix the problem?
Wade Jarvis wrote:z yaaaa wrote:HOLY SH!T WADE!!!! when we spoke on the phone i had no idea the bolts were THAT loose!!! i was figuring hmmppf a couple threads out, not THAT horrible...but then see that pic. thats crazy, your lucky as hell you found this problem before it became something a LOT worse!
so did it fix the problem?
The car was so bad it was not driveable. It would have really sucked if they had come out going down the interstate though.
Yes it is all fixed now.
Distinct Demensionz wrote:hey guys I have a question? I have a 2001 Chevy Cav 2.2. Its man 5spd, the other day I went out to start the car and it started up fine. I let it warm up as it was really cold out, and when I came back to go to work. I got in and went to put it in gear and the clutch pedal just fell to the floor when pushed and wouldnt come back up. I have a new clutch in it with about 20k miles on it now, I didnt have any slippage or grinding prior to this happening. So my first guess was air in the line, I checked and cant get any fuild to bleed out. So I disconnected the line at the slave and in doing so fluid leaked out. My resevoir is full, and I dont see any leaks off hand. Any ideas as to the problem or where to begin to start? I have a hunch it is the master cylinder that has gone out, I dont think the TOB is bad cause I can still attempt to push into gear while running and it will pull forward when held against the gear. Ideas please.....
schmidty4343 wrote:same exact problem as all the above and am pulling the tranny next weekend but i have a 96 and neither or those master cylinders look anything like my one on my 96. Mine just has the line coming off of the master that snap into a black nozzle cylinder lookin thing and then screws onto the tob.
can i order the new master with the part number in this thread cause i need a new master as well?
Wade Jarvis wrote:John Higgins wrote:Wade Jarvis wrote:Well I got pics of both parts side by side. I will post those up later. The new master is in and bled but the clutch is still not fully releasing. I am getting a sloid fluid stream every time I open the bleeder to I highly doubt I still have air in the line.
I am going to pull of the inspection cover tonight and check the tq on the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Going to tq them to 24 ft lbs.
What seems weird to me is that with the clutch pedal pushed in in 1st gear at idle the car does not move forward but if I rev the engine with the clutch pedal still pushed in it starts to move forward until the rpms drop. Any ideas on why.
When you are reving the motor force takes over everything pushes out, like the pressure plate. This si sooo exactly what happened with my car. I took the same steps as you.
So did it turn out to be that your pressure plate to flywheel botls needed tourqed down or what was wrong?
Wade Jarvis wrote:Magik1109 wrote:i would change the master first since its cheap and easy to replace, then if the problem still occur, might be your slave (more expensive)
I called the auto parts store and the master is not available through them yet. Still dealer only item. I called the stealership and the cost is $160 for the master and the slave was $113 Since the master is easier to get to and has more miles I decided I will replace it first. Chris Taetsch was able to get me a new one from the dealer for about $100.
I have been told that GM redesigned this part with a different line. If this is the case I will post up the 2 side by side so this can be seen.
I also talked to clutchmasters technical support. I was told there is no way to tell for sure which is bad at this point unless one is leaking. They insist that they get theres from the exact same place that supplies them to GM so there would be absoluty no difference between theres and the stock. They also advised me to replace the master first because of the mileage and ease of replacement. I was told that if indeed it was a bad slave it would be under warranty.
I will be checking it again real good for leaks as well as the condition of the O-ring where the line connects to the slave.