so it looks like its the clutch disk that fails on spec clutches, why not star a list of fail and pass and put your horspower and what stage the clutch is
so it looks like its the clutch disk that fails on spec clutches, why not start a list of fail and pass and put your horspower and what stage the clutch is
wtf,
even know i probly wont put over 500 miles on the car in a years time, im now hesitant about the spec stage 3 i just bought.
i was reading the forums and thought to myself, spec, hmm they seem like a good clutch, from what i was reading, well the next day after i orderd the stage 3 i realized i didnt read far enough and didnt dig deep enough, so now im wondering since i have a 99' cav dual friction clutch sittn by if i can use the centerforce disk with the spec pressure plate?
any thoughts?
CaliforniaDomestics wrote:-Matt-
I think your statement is exactly the problem with SPECS products they are hit and miss. I have been through SPECs with no problems and others with problems. Their Flywheel was the final straw for me with their crap which is a completely different story all on its own but again like you and even myself have mentioned sometimes SPEC is fine but the majority have problems. I have to say I figured it was just user error or installation error in a lot of cases until I started getting the same things happening. The majority of SPECS issue though I am pretty sure are pressure plate related with our cars.
There are plenty of other car makes though that have really good luck with SPEC line so perhaps its just something with our platform. No clue............
exactly what i was thinking aswell
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
Another known issue to be aware of (none of which I have experienced personally) is that the SPEC clutches seem to have a trend of weak spring memory (meaning the springs are not returning fully to original length after compression). This of course only affects the sprung clutch discs. When this happens the play in the spring sockets become excessive and because the SPEC clutches lack much of a spring cage they let go from their homes. This is a common issue my brother and myself have come across in the fiero forums and well........ really anything that may utilize 3800 setups and the various trans combinations associated. When the springs let go at high RPM nothing good comes from it put it that way. This can happen with any multitude of clutch manufactures however, so the key is to find a superior spring cage and good springs I suppose. Even though I have not experienced complete spring dislocation I can confirm that the springs in both of my SPECs are much shorter than when first installed confirming the spring memory issue.
Could I have been over powering these clutches, yes........... Could this be a direct result from over powering the clutches, yes.......... Could this be my fault, yes! BUT when you confirm with the manufacture as to whether these clutch systems are able to handle stated power levels and issues still arise this becomes a problem. Clutches are not cheap and to replace one every year gets old. All of these variables have made me very leary of just about any manufacture out there especially when a factory clutch designed to handle 135 HP is out performing a "HIGH PERFORMANCE" clutch.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
well if i could get a bully stage 3 for around 450-500
Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents here. My slave cylinder went out a few years ago at about 50k miles. I figured while the trans was off I might as well do a clutch. I had great success with a spec on my old nissan 240sx so I went with a stage 2 for my current car (03 base cavi). I am a mechanic myself and understand that when a manufacturer gives break-in instructions, it is for a reason. I followed the instructions to the letter as stated above and have had overall good results. Every great once in a while if i push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it for an extended period, as in sit at a long light with it in gear, then it wants to engage right off the floor. Knowing the pattern issues and failures of slave cylinders on ecotec cars though I cannot in all honesty blame the clutch. It is still going strong with 122,xxx miles on the vehicle, or about 70k on the clutch. My vehicle is mostly stock but it has seen its fair share of drag passes on street tires including launching under a 50 shot about a dozen times. The only other issue I have ever had was when driving from southern California to Florida, the clutch pedal seemed to get a bit light after being on the road for a constant 20 hours. I think the whole assembly was getting a bit hot and possibly the pressure plate was flexing easier due to the heat, but again I can't blame the clutch after 20 hours of driving on I-10 through the southwest in the July heat. Sorry such a long post but that is my experience with SPEC.
'03 cavalier base
15.7 @ 86.9mph stock
Mods in profile
So basically you are confirming the same engagement inconsistencies as everyone else correct?
With your car being relatively stock and your car being driven as it should even with numerous drag races there should be no reason that the metal of the PP fingers are fatiguing under heat of normal driving. I don't think it is the clutch either as I have mentioned (their springs in the sprung clutches do seem to have issues though, different story). What I do think the problem is, is mostly in the pressure plate which is exactly what you are describing.
I personally have tested the stock PP against the SPEC using the same flywheel, same TO bearing, same clutch and as expected the inconsistency arises when the SPEC PP is part of the combination.
I wish there were a way I could see what exactly is happening during engagement and disengagement so I could finally solve or confirm the issue once and for all. Maybe if I get brave one of these days I will drill a small hole in the bell housing and rig up my fiber optic engine diag camera. This way I can record exactly what is happening in there during the problematic scenarios (= Last thing I wanna do though is somehow wreck my camera because I would have a hard time explaining the warranty of it to Snap-On
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
Well I was kinda nervous about running my bully stage 3 with 300+ wheel hp but I contacted bully and they said the stage 3 is good for 350whp and 380-400ft/lbs. After a year of running the clutch the pads still measure 300 thousand which is what it was when I bought it (according to bully). So at least I know I am safe for the power I am looking for.
Matthew Jollymore wrote:Well I was kinda nervous about running my bully stage 3 with 300+ wheel hp but I contacted bully and they said the stage 3 is good for 350whp and 380-400ft/lbs. After a year of running the clutch the pads still measure 300 thousand which is what it was when I bought it (according to bully). So at least I know I am safe for the power I am looking for.
good to know. hope the 4 holds up to 450. looking forward to it.
The Bully setups seem to be promising especially with so many high HP/TQ Js jumping on the bandwagon. I may end up as one myself as soon as I get a price.................. cough cough LFNGAS
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
just got my kit, what the hell is the lightweight option? i paid extra damnit, this looks like just a regular kit, cant tell its any diff.
to everyone waiting on pricing from me, i just got home from work and will be getting prices monday morning for you all, i appreciate the patience and will get back to everyone asap!!!!
does bully just offer clutches, or pp also?
does a bear crap in the woods
anyone looking for a high powered L61.. I'd get the clutchmasters FX600. but you're gonna pay for it.
for the LSJ, the exedy super single looks really promising.
looks like exedy also came out with a chromoly flywheel for the L61.. very nice looking.
for you 2.4 guys, I'm not sure whats available other than spec and bully. I had a spec stage 3 on the skwirl during the all motor phase.... but for higher powered cars, I think you gentlemen need to start thinking about solid clutches instead of that sprung wimpy crap.
If I were to buy JUST the clutch disk from LUK, what else do I need? Other than the key, and can I get that from LUK? I won't need to buy a pressure plate or clutch kit right? I am running a 2003 Ecotec 8psi, clutch has about 67,000 on and is starting to slip.
jameson toler wrote:does a bear crap in the woods
around me, no...in my driveway...lol
sorry, i meant flywheel. is it a whole clutch pack, or just the clutch and pp? i've only owned auto's so i don't know these things. looking into the manual side of the fence
The last time I looked into spec clutches I actually took the time and pm'd the people whos said they sucked balls. Everyone of them admited that they didn't properly break in the clutch or they didn't do it exactly.
Of the people that had the issues a heavy majority installed themselves very few had them installed by someone who had proper experience. Not saying the were incapable with installing it properly but it's something to consider none the less.
ClutchMasters twin disc of love over here.
-Trailblazer SS - not so custom 6.0L - custom intake - custom tune
- (1) 2.4L on an engine stand (1) blown trans (2) good quad trans (1) eco trans = party
