NICE!
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
Well thats good & by bend in the shifter I was talking more like a bend above the pivot point, kinda like a old school Hurst shifter. Something like:
Also can't wait to see how all the testing goes with this.
im a definite if you can make one for the 95-99 ...
way to go man...you always do good stuff ...makin us proud
Charles Dennison wrote:Well thats good & by bend in the shifter I was talking more like a bend above the pivot point, kinda like a old school Hurst shifter. Something like:
Also can't wait to see how all the testing goes with this.
yea I know what you meant...
what are you sitting in the back seat? the adjustability of the cables should be able to move the stick back an inch or so.. but if you want the stick over the window switches/ center console slot thing I guess I could do that.....
I'm still very interested in this. Don't want to add my name to the list yet, as I just took a new job and am unsure what i'll be making. Will you be making these fo a while or just going to make a run or two?
When do we expect to see the finished product or better yet when will you need the cash? im very intrested & dont want to miss out on the GP if u only produce 5 then find out it was 2 much work then im out of luck. Im military & will def have money for this on either a 1st or 15th but all the days between there...sigh. i cant promise lol.
It beats a Honda!
I won't be satisifed with the prototype until midway thru october. if it can work with no major mishaps until then, I'll be making another initial version (production # 0) and I will test that for a few days.
#0 will be going into the skwirl, and will be the final version of the shifter and I will copy it 100% for the production versions.
I've been working on the knob and boot problem and I think you guys are really going to like my solution.
I've found a simple solution to getting the boot to grab onto a specific section of the stick... so if you don't want any of the stick exposed you can put the boot right up against the knob... OR if you want a bit more of the nostalgic look, you can slide the boot down the stick so that about 1-2" of the stick is exposed below the knob.. it looks pretty freaking bad ass that way IMO.
If I do offer an included shift knob, I may make it optional (if I offer one at all).. It depends on how the finish is when I get the first one (before the end of the week I should have it)..
IF I do offer the included knob, it will be raising the price roughly $50
again, this depends on the finish.. if the finish is super rough, and you guys want something nicer, that price will go higher yet again.
Or, I could just give you guys a threaded shaft and let you figure out the knob on your own... I still haven't decided yet.
I'm struggling to get things sized properly to work with the stock/ B&M knob.. honestly those knobs kind of look like crap on the stick without a reverse mechanism so I may just make you guys have to get a 1/2"-20 knob.. its a lot easier on my end.
I'd take just threaded 1/2-20, but I then I'll have to decide between
this and
and this one. It looks like there's slim pickens for 1/2-20 knobs but theres a ton of 3/8-16 or 3/8-24. I know that going 3/8 would be much much more difficult and costly so its not a big deal at all. Theres enough 1/2-20 choices to go around.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
how close is 12mm x 1.75 to 1/2-20??
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
12mm is .4724" ....
Jason what are you trying to ask?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, September 29, 2010 1:25 PM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
No they will not thread together... lol
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
I already have a shift knob that is 12mm x 1.75 and wanted to know if I needed to buy another one
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Just drill out the treads and helicoil in what ever size you want....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
ill twist a tennis ball ontop of it i dont care just make one for my 95 !!!!!
I'm in for the final version... where everything operates smoothly without any interference... and I want it higher than the b&m shifter...
...I am the BEST at what I do...
"I guess your right[BlueBoost]. Me and my slow car are failers."
i may be interested in one too when i do my 5 spd swap.
I might have to go back to my F23 now !
DAM YOU !
Great Design ! !
see ya in 2011
-Ben
That is a very beautiful shifter. I will be interested in one, once you get the final design done.
ok guys I finally got the part I needed to finish the prototype.
the slight interferance issue is still present in the bottom, however the shifter still works very well (only notice problems when going for reverse). I also made one other small revision to the fore/aft connection to the stick which should keep it from loosening.
The interferance problem for 5-R will be ELIMINATED for the production run.
the collar that holds the shift boot in place is adjustable... its about as low as you want to go in the picture, but you can slide it up to the bottom of the knob as well.
another thing, the stick is slightly shifted to the passenger side (I did this to try and minimize left-right movement). I will be moving the stick slightly closer to center for the production versions, however it will still be offcenter slightly to the passenger side... this is ON PURPOSE.
Also the stick for the production versions will be a cleaner steel (quite possibly stainless depending on cost) seeing as it could be an exposed part depending on the user's setup. Being the prototype, I made this as cheaply as possible to keep the R&D cost down (which is why the stick looks black and dirty).
I just went and checked real quick on online-metals to compare 1/2" mild steel rod and 1/2 304 stainless and the stainless is only a dollar and change more expensive per foot than the mild steel. Of course thats raw finish and stainless is typically harder to work with than mild so yeah.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Nice! I grinded into 3rd baaaaaad the other day. Stupid sloppy stock shifter!
looks great !!!
*waves cash around* wheres one for my 95???
I foresee a lot of B&M shifter for sale posts in the near future
Looks great, thanks for the time and effort......like others I now wait for the Isuzu version
"sometimes the respect is more important..."
