for him to make an isusu one its going to take a good amount of interest and dedication.
Underdog Racing
^I'm seriously thinking about making my own, but I'm not going to sell them, especially if PJ decides to make them.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
come on guys..theyre not that different..they fit the same car..they work basically the same..the only difference ive noticed is the way the cables connect to the shifter....unless im mistaken ?
scott (section8cav) wrote:come on guys..theyre not that different..they fit the same car..they work basically the same..the only difference ive noticed is the way the cables connect to the shifter....unless im mistaken ?
the side to side motion is the other way around, which means the sidearm would have to be moved to the other upright. I don't know if this would cause interferance problems or not without a car to test it on.
the center console design is different, which might also play into how things fit.
the cable connections are in different places (the getrags are together, the isuzus are apart)
I have a car to test, I just need to find the time to do it. If I'm lucky, maybe I can design one unit that will work in both cars.
keep up the good work.
have you read the
RULES yet?
my carDomain updated 6/11/10 Forged and Supercharged
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
the side to side motion is the other way around, which means the sidearm would have to be moved to the other upright. I don't know if this would cause interferance problems or not without a car to test it on.
side beam would just have to be down left corner instead. just like our stock shifter. so it will pull instead of push.
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
the center console design is different, which might also play into how things fit.
i have 00+ console
.... no preblem here
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
the cable connections are in different places (the getrags are together, the isuzus are apart)
if you can make the piece where the cables rod connect longer to compensate for the difference in cable snap in location.... just a thought
Magik1109 wrote:DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
the side to side motion is the other way around, which means the sidearm would have to be moved to the other upright. I don't know if this would cause interferance problems or not without a car to test it on.
side beam would just have to be down left corner instead. just like our stock shifter. so it will pull instead of push.
By interferance problems, I mean specifically with the center console, and with the design of the shifter currently. The forward upright could potentially have issues with the side arm having to be mounted on the rear most upright instead of the front upright.
Quote:
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
the center console design is different, which might also play into how things fit.
i have 00+ console .... no preblem here
this is good to know. My shifter however uses up more space than the stock crap. So while the stock shifter had plenty of room, mine has quite a bit less clearance. I would still prefer to see it installed before my worries about this potential issue are put to bed.
Quote:
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
the cable connections are in different places (the getrags are together, the isuzus are apart)
if you can make the piece where the cables rod connect longer to compensate for the difference in cable snap in location.... just a thought
assuming the uprights wouldn't be in the way, this problem is solved in and of itself now that I think about it.. of course, again, assuming that the uprights don't interfere with the sidearm.
also, where the cable rod ends sit is different than the getrag. The getrag cables mount practically side by side. the Isuzu has quite a bit of difference (the fore and aft cable is similar to the getrag, but the slider cable is 1"-2" farther back. I've already considered how to solve it I just need to test in real life.
I really do think I can make one unit that works in both circumstances.. again, discussing the differences is one thing.. I'm a firm believer in mocking stuff up and looking at it in real life. I'm going to talk to my buddy with the sunfire this week and hopefully get it for a day or two to see what can be done.
I just rigged my fidanza because it sorta grenaded on me.
The ring that held the ball in place somehow was gone and I could barely go into first and second. It was super wobbly, wouldn't stand up straight.
I ended up getting a 1.25" PVC ferrule (the little seal that goes under the nuts in the fittings that connect the p-traps under most sink drains) and trimming it to fit and ramming the snap ring down on it. It's stiff, but I know it's a time bomb.
I will be purchasing one of these once they are finalized. I would like to use the stock knob though, if possible.
This thread makes me excited to be able to actually shift nicely again. (I'm Babying it now, cause I don't want to break it again: it sucks cause I just put on my turbo).
Excellent work! Can't wait!!
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
1. Vince Morris (I already know you want the first one man lol)
2. Jon Leith (Leafy) (even if I have to steal money from my tuition payment)
3. Dave De Stefano(and i don't even have a manual yet!lol!)
4.
5.
Sorry but I have to bail out. Beyond broke right now. Hopefully when these go to production I'll be able to afford one.
I would be interested. Any updates on it?
if you can do one for an isuzu im in!
Fireboy153
Brady Fire Co. - Station 150
Long Live The Sunflower! (yea its not so "cool")
So how'd the testing turn out?
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
fore and aft motion have passed testing.
side to side however.. i'm thinking of ways to redesign the cage. finding the raw material to fit my needs is proving to be difficult, so I may have to machine something.
I have a few ideas, I just need to try them out.
After I get that out of the way I need to look at if its possible to modify to fit an isuzu and if so, both will be released together (since technically, it'll be the same shifter just two pieces moved in order to 'adapt' to the isuzu.
count me in...willing to pay up front to help with "R&D" if need be....best idea ive seen in a long time..
i'll be doing a auto to manual swap around april/may, if these are available i'd pick one up then!
Damn this was almost onto the 2nd page.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
thats because we know how to keep in touch with him
BuiltNBoosted wrote:im in. love my ebay shifter, but with me missing 3rd gear racing and losing transmissions, ill take the upgrade!
move your seat up a few notches?? this used to be my problem, i like to drive leaning back but i couldnt reach 3rd or 5th so it would grind a little
95LsCoupe wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:im in. love my ebay shifter, but with me missing 3rd gear racing and losing transmissions, ill take the upgrade!
move your seat up a few notches?? this used to be my problem, i like to drive leaning back but i couldnt reach 3rd or 5th so it would grind a little
def not my problem, 100+ passes on the car, im pretty sure i have it narrowed down on how to race my car...
between stock clutch, and ebay shifter, this is step 1 of 2 to eliminate that problem.
In a non homosexual way i felt pj's shifter and jerked it around last weekend, it's super tight and feels great!
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
just to bump this up a bit
There are three issues I want to address, and the order in which I want to adress them:
1) side-to-side slop in the mechanism.
My goal for this shifter is to eliminate as much play as I possibly can, so that the only thing you will feel is the slack in the cable connections (no way around cable slop unless you can eliminate the cables). The general consensus when a few members tried the shifter out in my 2004 a few weeks ago was that it was perfect as is. It will be even better when I'm completely satisifed.
2) Interferance when going for reverse/ fifth
There's a small design flaw when pushing the stick away and going for either 5th or R. This is especially noticable when going for R. I'm redesigning the side arm slightly and moving the rod end to hopefully eliminate this. If it doesn't work, I'm going to have to shift the stick over towards the driver slightly (i'd prefer not to do that however). Bottom line is, it will grab any gear with similar effort to other short throw shifters.
3) compatibility with Isuzu transmissions.
Once the above issues are solved, I have a car I can test the shifter on and I still strongly believe that one unit will work in all year ranges of jbody. If not, I will take notes and design an isuzu specific unit pending interest.
I've been working on problems 1 and 2 mentally for a while and today disassembled my shifter to make a new re-desgined 'cage' that will hopefully make left/right movements way more solid. I'm also testing a slight modification to the side arm connection to see if I can improve left/right articulation and reduce left/right angular throw.
just got home.. man what a night.
I started fabricating a new prototype cage to use in the assembly, but after spending hours on that i'm not sure how I feel about it.
I went back to the cage I had and started messing with my real problem.. the sidearm.
I bored out the upright and moved the bearing from the side arm to the upright. This is to try and maintain alignment while the sidearm is pivoting.
I moved the rod end on the left/right cable connection to help improve clearance with the upright.
Once I did that, I decided that if I separated the left/right pivot from the fore/aft pivot, I could increased the leverage on the sidearm. It worked, but messed up the cable connection clearance to the floor of the shifter.
I machined about 1/4" of material off the bottom of the cable connection for the left/right cable and put it into the car.
After adjusting the cable connection it works WAY better than before. All the gears feel about the same.. before, 1,2,3,4 felt GREAT but 5 and R were a bit questionable.
Now it feels consistently good across the board. I no longer have to hit the shifter in order to get into reverse. The only thing that happened was one of the bearings shattered. I think this is because I was hammering on it and exposing it to heat it won't normally see, so I'm going to replace it and continue testing.
I moved a good bearing into that position and moved the crap bearing to a non-critical spot and side to side slop is almost completely eliminated.
for those who were concerned with a bolt being used as the only connection between the stick and the sidearm, you'll be pleased to know that area is getting significant reinforcement.