Ahh thanks for clearing that up Brian! So I just need the holes slotted then.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Damn, this thread is VERY interesting. I always thought by not having equal length half shafts, was prone to less refinement when it came to thrust... ie torque steer. Saturns had it back in the day too!
I'd like to see what can happen on a LD9/Getrag combo with this.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Damn, this thread is VERY interesting. I always thought by not having equal length half shafts, was prone to less refinement when it came to thrust... ie torque steer. Saturns had it back in the day too!
I'd like to see what can happen on a LD9/Getrag combo with this.
Fetter was using this setup before, which is one of the reasons I am doing the same with my Getrag swap.
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
The 2007 third place quick 8 car was running this setup as well.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Im running it on my 2200 Getrag setup.
No wheel hop what so ever.
Around 4500, just squealing tire spining love!
I ran these on Sweetness - decreased wheel hop quite a bit but it def doesn't eliminate it.
I utilized a jackshaft off of a H.O car - tried the outer axle with it from the H.O and as Brian (Speedracer) promised me - it was too short by just a little and kept popping out... so I have a stock Jbody outer CV on the passenger side. I am also utilizing the H.O driver's side axleshaft.
I have to get my hands on a spare jackshaft so I can change the setup on my current daily driver... just personal preference.
The LD9 has the appropriate M10 x 1.5 threads on the block already setup for this, all you have to do is chase the threads a bit and get a few bolts. It's a great little upgrade.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
I love mine, but as far as street tires on the track it seemed like it did'nt much help... still wheel hops like a bitch...
Not surprised that it does help on the street though... Not hard to avoid wheel hop on the street.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
How much boost, or estimated HP are you putting down.
I have no wheel hop and no torque steer.
Im wondering if Im putting down too much or too little HP.
Bobby Higgins wrote:How much boost, or estimated HP are you putting down.
I have no wheel hop and no torque steer.
Im wondering if Im putting down too much or too little HP.
Last time I had it on the dyno at school I got 220/238 @13lbs
Like I said, wheel hop is the most prevalent at the track with street tires... the surface is so grippy and the tires tear up the first layer of rubber, which is often when you run into the spin/grab condition that initiates wheel hop... I do not hop on the street except for slightly if I dump the clutch in 1st... it goes away as soon as the boost comes in at about 3800... Traction also usually goes away at that point...
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
OK well im running 22PSI, so im not sure how much power im producing, no dyno results.
Its only with a MHI Big 16G ported.
But as of thursday, I got some funny engine noises, I think I may have spun a bearing.
Time to take it apart ..... AGAIN!!!!!
Anyone know how to get the part that bolts to the block off the shaft? I must of missed it???
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I thought there were snap rings?
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
SpeedRacerZ wrote:I thought there were snap rings?
Internal C-clips... You'll need some C-Clip pliers to remove them then Press the shaft out of the bearing, then the bearing out of the housing... when you press the shaft out of the bearing be sure to support the inner race of the bearing otherwise you will destroy the bearing and possibly an eye...
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Ok, so I noticed something weird. With the car as I have it right now it sits about 3.5" off the ground ( from the subframe). When I go backwards and have the wheel turned more than 30-40% the wheel locks up. Now I know this is because the jackshaft, so i am thinking I either need to raise the car or adjust the control arms but just something to be aware of.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Curious, why does the wheel lock up because of the jackshaft?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
That is wierd?
Are you on air?
Mine turns perfectly fine.
Also, if it only happens in reverse, I bet its something else.
An axle would bind in either direction if this was the case.
You guys should look into the enclosed shafts. They seem to be a bit more reliable (in 2nd gens anyway), and need less of a meaty bracket and bearing since most of the force is applied directly to the trans case. I've been running one for years on a NVG MG2, and it has the same mounting bosses as the HM282. I'm not sure what the 3rd gen Getrags have for mounting bosses, but they may already be there and just need to be drilled and tapped. Both these pics have a custom bracket.
Behind the 2.2-
Behind the 3400-
If you do a www.car-part.com search for an 89 Beretta jackshaft, you'll find them.
.
Snap! That DOES look meaty!
Do you still use the same outer CV with it?
Maybe I'll use that on my NVG on Sweetness and swap my jack shaft to my current car....
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Not meaty!!!!!
The enclosed shaft is actually smaller than the non elcosed shaft.
From what I remember, its about 4mm smaller in diameter.
Please search!
Really... thanks for the info Bobby!
I'm back on the hunt for a regular jackshaft for the daily... haha.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Looks liks Jame's bolts to the tranny instead of snapping in. The Getrag doesn't have bolt holes.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
It is smaller diameter, and it's also less prone to snapping. There have been more snapped external shafts than the internal ones in the 2nd gen world. The tube reinforces the shaft, there is a full roller bearing on the outside end to support the axle, and a simple seal. It is by no means "weak". Comparison-
WHITECAVY wrote:Looks liks Jame's bolts to the tranny instead of snapping in. The Getrag doesn't have bolt holes.
If it has the bosses, the holes just need to be drilled and tapped. 2nd gen Getrags (MG2) don't have holes either, but the bosses are there. I had to drill and tap these three holes-
I'm not saying this is a better option, I'm just saying it
is an option, and from what I've seen, is less likely to break, needs less bracketry, and IMO, looks cleaner.
.
