I asked this before, but got very little responses. Strangely, before the reflash it drove fine in Low 1 or Low 2 and had great giddy up and control of how it reved up. Then after the flash it falls on it's faces. In Low 1 and Low 2, no mater if you floor it or ease into it, it will bog down for 3 seconds and then jerk and burn out of there. Plus afterwards it will not stay and redline in the gear. It will shift by its self as if it was in Drive. I spoke to the dealer and they said it was probably my transmission. I finally managed to get a running one and rebuild it with Raybestos Stage-1 clutches and a TG LSD. Threw it on and tried it and it does the same thing still.
I feel that this is a tune error, but the dealership says it's a mechanical tranny problem or a TCM problem (although if I recall correctly, I thought the PCM controlled the tranny, but the guy insisted a seperate TCM needs to be replaced).
What I want to know is if anyone else has had or has this problem after the tune?
Also I heard that there was an updated version of the calibration, but I can not recall if it was for the Z24 or Ecotec S/C.
Can anyone confirm this?
If so, which calibration should I have and how can I check which calibration I have?
Could it even of been possible that they might of flashed the Z24 tune in it?
Thanks guys,
Jay
Do you have any dash lights illuminated or blinking? Are you sure they gave you the calibration for an automatic transmission and not a manual?
Not saying this is what's wrong with your car, but after I charged my car it had the same kind of hesitation issues if I gassed it hard. Ended replacing the fuel pump and haven't had anymore problems
Apologies for the delayed response, no internet at home.
Admiral Jedi: No lights, neither Check Engine, Brake, Service, or ABS. Trac Off comes on when i shift into Low 1 or Low 2, but it did that before when it was working fine.
ecotecpower: It only does this hesitation in Low 1 and Low 2, all others, it flys. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once when it actually went out with a CSK Airtronic one, and afterwards with a Racetronix, just because.
quit trying to shift it like a manual and it wont matter.
Yeah what are you doing using anything other than D to go forward? lol
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
636 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
[ion wrote: C2]Yeah what are you doing using anything other than D to go forward? lol
Well since my Cavy was equipped with ABS and TCS, when you leave it in 3rd or Drive the TCS is active and when launching at the track the wheel spin will cause the TCS to activate and reduce engine power momentarily to reduce wheel spin, which really kills my 1/4 mile E.T.
The neat thing is that some Sunfire's have a TCS disable button under the steering column, but the Cavy's do not as far as I know.
Anyways, when placed in Low 1 or Low 2 the TCS is disabled and you can launch at full power and just regulate wheel spin by your skill with the throttle. Plus Low 1 has the lo roller clutch engaged, which makes the transmission sturdier on take off.
Also, when operating properly, manuely shifting will let you rev up to redline. If you have HP Tuner's I guess it doesn't matter cause you can just change the shift points, but I have the GM Flash.
I'll have to look up the roller clutch engagement thing, but one click up on the ebrake handle does the same thing. So does HPTuners, a B&M shiftplus, or an autotrans interceptor.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:I'll have to look up the roller clutch engagement thing, but one click up on the ebrake handle does the same thing. So does HPTuners, a B&M shiftplus, or an autotrans interceptor.
Hey that's true, didn't really think of that. I'll have to try on Saturday and see if it works.
kids that think their autos are manuals amuse me. learn to drive the car and it will shift better/faster then you will ever be able to make it.
