You do great work, I can't wait to see this finished!
For sure cf tec vis doesn't have a shaved trunk lock. Pretty much doing everything you have listed but not sure about the alum control arm and knuckle how much weight savings does it offer. Yes the Eco is lighter but I don't have 10gs to build one how I want to.
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
If someone can get the weight on how much the stock knuckles and control arms weigh, I can tell you the weight of the nbody knuckles and control arms.. there just sitting in a box here so i'll try to weigh em.
Liken the build so far. and no worries on the eco.. there is always next year right?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:45 PM
i would honestly be scared to see how fast that car would be if you build an ecotec for it. i wouldnt hesitate to see a single digit pass with that car...
Hell yea Brandon! I wish I lived closer! (better not let the wife see I said that....... she's still pissed we moved from Peoria how many years ago?)
Eco = Poo..... LD9 = Sweet!
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
eco=ftl
8 psi with m62 and IAT under 100
Stephen (manta z) wrote:If someone can get the weight on how much the stock knuckles and control arms weigh, I can tell you the weight of the nbody knuckles and control arms.. there just sitting in a box here so i'll try to weigh em.
Liken the build so far. and no worries on the eco.. there is always next year right?
Maybe i've been under a rock. whats the difference between n body and j body knuckles? are they swappable like the control arms? i already have the control arms. would my wilwood kit work with teh knuckles?
^^read up on the NWF brake swap. mainly there aluminum so in theory should be lighter. To me getting to use Nbody ball joints, tie rod ends, and hubs should mean some heavier duty parts.. if that is true or not I don't know. Main reason is for the brake upgrade though.
the knuckles are lighter yes, but you need to use the larger n-body axles to make them work as the n-body wheel bearings require the larger spline (this would be a good upgrade for high whp cars) but basically, any weight savings you get from the knuckles you negate with the beefier axles. the only way to get the weight savings would be to some how adapt a j-body wheel bearing to an n-body knuckle. which would not be hard for someone with some skill in fabrication. a simple adapter plate could be made pretty easily i think.
also, theres the issue of the bolt pattern which is an easy fix but who knows if the wilwoods will even work with them.
this is all stuff ive thought about for awhile now, i have a set of the n-body knuckles and they are considerably lighter than the j-body units. it just sucks because there would be a lot of modification needed to get them to work if you're only goal was to save some weight.
and yeah, i see that the key hole is shaved now. so, retract VIS and insert JSP then
180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >
Can you run Lexan Windows?
How about removing as much steel as possible, do you really need steel behind the bumpers?
How about replacing some of or all of the truck with Aluminum?
yea brian i remember that, empty promises suck. it would be nice to use bigger n-body axles but all my wheels are single bolt pattern and i dont think the weight savings of the alum knuckle is worth the amount of time it would take get the j hub to work. no on lexan windows, there will be lots of stuff not going back on the car that will save alot of weight.
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
Always loved your other Car Brandon
Can't wait to see where this one goes
Congrats
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot !!!
I didn't know you where doing all this. It's been about 6 weeks since the last time I talked to you though.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Not sure if you mentioned yet, but what Intake manifold are you running on this motor? Some badd ass sheet metal one again?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
WHITECAVY wrote:Not sure if you mentioned yet, but what Intake manifold are you running on this motor? Some badd ass sheet metal one again?
I am sure he will find a way to top his last one
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi
LG0/LD9 for Life
Brandon, this one gonna have a water-air intercooler?
I can picture you putting it on the drivers side of the engine bay right off the turbo. If you are staying air-air, you locating the TB on the pass side and running the hot side on the drivers side?
this is going to be a great build cant wait to see it done
Nice as always man I can't wait to see what you can do with it. Your very good at what you do so I'm excited to see the end result.
intake will be very simular to my past intake, but facing toward the pass side. no air to water, just a 24x12x3.5 air to air intercooler that will be back doored on one side going straight at the turbo for super short charge pipes. this isnt a full out race car still plan on driving it on the street now and then, and plus have to look good going down the track
small update is the cage is almost all the way welded up just have to borrow my buddies super small welding torch to finish up the really tight spots. then once the window net comes in and i get the intall kit ill get that installed and then take the car to have the cage certified hopefully ill be super excited and have a huge weight lifted once i have that expensive sticker placed on my bar.
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
nice!!
more pics!!
8 psi with m62 and IAT under 100
Lol nice, yaaay for expensive stickers
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
wtf!
i want a video of that thing
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
