Here are pictures of my most recent project. I have a 1997 cavalier. It is NOT in the greatest shape, body wise, but the trans and motor run perfect with no problems. The car needs motor mounts, front abs sensors, airbag control module, ac compressor, a little body work, matching hood, front bumper, maybe a passenger control arm or a subframe, lol. It is a 2.2 3 speed automatic with power locks and crank windows.
Here is my only "major" situation with the car. Here is the driver side tire...
and here is the passenger side tire... The passenger is close to the back fender. I will have to remove the wheel and check it out sometime this week. I don't have lots of time right now sadly.
More pics for the hell of it.
Any suggestions on what else I need to do is appreciated. I don't plan on lowering it or going to any car shows, lol.
Get a Z24 front bumper. Why not lower it? Doesn't have to be anything crazy...stock height is no good.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
Looks like it's got a bent control arm on the passenger side front, thats why the wheel is sitting so far back.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
I was thinking about the 2000+ front end. I have a z24 already, so I just like it to be different. I might lower it just a small amount, but I like not having to think about routes I have to avoid cause it is too low.
The09GXP wrote:Looks like it's got a bent control arm on the passenger side front, thats why the wheel is sitting so far back.
Yeah. I asked about that and I assumed that could be the problem. Will have to pull the wheel to check... I had a couple of people say it might be the sub frame as well.
I was working at a carwash a long time ago, and a nasty thunderstorm closed us down for the day. The day prior, the boss had new blacktop laid down throughout the whole property. Well, new blacktop + 2 inches of standing water makes for a slippery situation. Combine that with a retard in a Samurai trying to drift and coming at me head-on, and I blitzed a curb. Mine was actually bent back worse than yours, as I was rubbing the plastic fender liner. I took it to a shop down the street and they tried telling me my subframe was bent. I took it to a friend's house and he laughed when I told him what happened and what the shop said. A couple of hours and $53 later, my car was fixed. It was a bent control arm; nothing more, nothing less.
R.I.P. JessE Gerard 7.11.87 - 1.25.08
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[UPDATE]
I got the upper motor mount replaced and the lower dog-bone. No more movement any more. Both mounts were trash when I pulled them. Also....
and I found the intake ripped off at the throttle side. Half ass electrical taped to it.
And good news... kinda... The control arm is the culprit. It is bent so I am sooooooooooooooo happy the subframe is okay.
Also... I was wondering if anybody had tips to removing the bolt in the middle of the automatic trans mount. It is the one bolt that goes through the rubber mount area. I think it is a ten, but I sprayed it with penetrating spray and then somehow I stripped it. I can get pictures if needed, but it was kinda dark when I tried to tackle it.
Blacking out the tails lights and putting LED's in the rear lights is always a nice touch..simple and makes it kinda aggressive
Steve B wrote:Blacking out the tails lights and putting LED's in the rear lights is always a nice touch..simple and makes it kinda aggressive
Wuuuuuut??
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
i too would like to.know of the trans mount can be seprated. we tried two n they just got.messed up ended up ordering a new one lol.from when we called parts stores that isnt a supplied part everyone said dealer only im like really. good thing wasnt for me lol.
Bluedriftcavy(Eco Swapper) wrote:i too would like to.know of the trans mount can be seprated. we tried two n they just got.messed up ended up ordering a new one lol.from when we called parts stores that isnt a supplied part everyone said dealer only im like really. good thing wasnt for me lol.
I bought
THIS and just want the old one replaced, lol.
This is a little off subject, but my friend has a 99 base... I wanted to show everyone his "mod". Enjoy.
Most likely the subframe. I had that exact issue with my old Z24. I got a new subframe put in and it fixed the issue. Keep in mind that they will never be exactly centered like they were originally, but they will be close enough where you won't be able to tell without actually inspecting it. Mine were close, but never exact because the rest of the body was slightly tweaked from whatever caused that issue in the first place.
Brent, The sub frame on my car is fine. It is the control arm. I said this under the picture of the ripped intake with electrical tape. I got lucky I guess.
The center bolt that goes thru the rubber mount is stuck. I rounded it off and kinda said f$%k it for now. Anyways
UPDATE.......................................blown headgasket. The car had no thermostat... put one in it... and now I have a gush of coolant seeping out on the passenger side...facepalm.
I will be posting pissed off images of me tackling this crap very soon...
Sorry to hear of the trouble. And the screwdriver mod FTW! xD
Update:
As the motor looked before I started to tear it apart. My first "mod" with the GM strut bar.
The tear-down
The motor with the head off. It was getting late so I had to call it a night.
The head as it sat. I cleaned it up some, but decided to finish it in the morning. No pictures after I cleaned it up. I forgot, lol. I am sure nobody really cares.
First thing after work... I got the block mating surface cleaned up.... This is another unfinished picture. I again did not take a finished picture, lol.
Also... A new water pump... just to be safe
I did not finish it completly yet. I got the head back on and torqued down. I found out the bearings in my alternator are also bad... so I am waiting to get a replacement so I can finish it up...
also...
I FINALLY GOT THE CONTROL ARMS!!! I will have it all fixed very soon.!!! Still in the boxes.
Did you get the head machined down flat and checked for cracks??? And if it was me, I would change the timing chain and tensioner while its that far apart. The tensioners like to break and cause that ticking sound we all know and love.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I cleaned it up and had it checked by my local mechanic. It was within tolerances. Also... I would replace the timing chain, but I have the receipts from the previous owner who had it done at 120,xxx miles. The car has like 22k on the timing components. Timing and coils were the only thing the previous owner had done. lol. Compressor exploded and everything else is the original... even the dying alternator....
Also, do ya still have the accord?
Yup. 299,285.4 miles and going strong!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:Yup. 299,285.4 miles and going strong!
nnnnniiiiiiccccccceeeeeeee.
Update:
Got the head gasket and everything done. Now I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I hear a hissing noise somewhere around the power steering pump. The car seems like it wants to stall when idling. It surges and the lights dim and get bright again... UGH. I took it for a test drive and at least now I have no more coolant shooting out all over the place... and it is not getting hot anymore, lol.
take a can of brake clean and spray around thegaskets on the intake and listen for a change in idle. once you hear the change use a steth a scope and pin point ir try to use your hand.
