Luke C wrote:Awesome! I'll be picking up the same style hood this coming weekend and using sparco hood pins like yours...personally i like the look of those the best

Nice! Make sure you clock the locks correctly. The way mine are on they kind of yank on the hood when you're locking them in.

tim adams wrote:i do have to say driving with no hood got us alot of looks

Was hilarious. There were some older guys really diggin it at a rest stop on the highway. Their wives weren't happy

blu04DD wrote:yeah i did it for a short time..and then when i picked up the invader hood, i had a blue car with a red hood with carbon fiber in the middle..was definitely a ricer experience lol.
but you just need to get rid of those heavy factory wheels (even though they look good) and strip all of your LSS stuff, put it to base model specs, get some mud flaps, paint it blue, buy some projector head light assemblies, remove the fog lights, take off the spoiler, fill in the sun roof, and you'll be just like me!!!

I'll get right on it. But the wheels stay, I like them too much

Cavalier Thompson wrote:sexy ass hood man

Thanks bro!



"In Oldskool we trust"

Looks awesome on a yellow cav man.
And of course, happy to help you get it fitted.

I say evil eye the hood and paint the sides of it.

Evil eye? I dunno..

Not a big update(waiting for Tinkles' part out ) but more good pictures. Went to a car show recently in Plymouth, Mass that was out of control; Cars and Copters. And yes, it was exactly what it sounds like. 2000+ cars and helicopter rides. Cleaned the car up nice and hand polished the rims. Turned out pretty nice!



Then this lovely lady asked to take some pictures with my car. Epic.



Finally got my zippo in the mail too


Replaced my old nasty headlights with these replacements. 28 bucks a piece! Big thanks to Tim Adams for the hook up with this parts store. The angle of the picture makes it look like there's a huge gap but I promise it's negligible.


Lastly, future plans...


More to come soon. I'll be making a post in the performance forum about some injectors I recently purchased too.



"In Oldskool we trust"

Nice! Super, super clean. I'm not too much into the evil eye hood either. Looks like you want some more whine in your life huh? Haha....what should the power levels be on that? Somewhere around 230-240 with the meth?

those wheels would look great black chrome with a flat black inner part (lip, sides of the spokes, etc)....
but that hood is awesome. Im with Tinkles, leave the center CF and do the outside yellow. Like mine but in blue.

looking good! and polish/finish that blower up! the factory parts look rough, aged almost. Take a wire wheel and give it a nice machined/industrial look. personal preference though

not the best pic but heres both of mine I did with a simple wire wheel and a drill..




04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

blu04DD wrote:those wheels would look great black chrome with a flat black inner part (lip, sides of the spokes, etc)....
but that hood is awesome. Im with Tinkles, leave the center CF and do the outside yellow. Like mine but in blue.

looking good! and polish/finish that blower up! the factory parts look rough, aged almost. Take a wire wheel and give it a nice machined/industrial look. personal preference though

not the best pic but heres both of mine I did with a simple wire wheel and a drill..

Agreed with all. Thing is I don't have a wire wheel here and I always run out of time in PA to clean stuff up. I said the SAME thing about the rims but I may just plasti dip them all black for ease. Plus I think that will make it less likely to peel off. As for the hood, that's definitely my plan.

Luke C wrote:Nice! Super, super clean. I'm not too much into the evil eye hood either. Looks like you want some more whine in your life huh? Haha....what should the power levels be on that? Somewhere around 230-240 with the meth?

Thanks man, probably going to see power levels around there. My goal with the m62 is to see 250whp. I know it'll be tough to get there but that's my REAL hp goal with this setup, always has been.

That being said, I've decided to scale back the meth injection. Brad just woke up from a deep sleep and screamed as this posted lol. Although I've resolved the issue of it running through the stuff like crazy, I just don't trust it to supply my fuel. So, I bought some big injectors and JUST purchased a smaller 1 gal/hr meth nozzle to run cheap washer fluid with. I believe it's 30% meth 70% water. I'll definitely need the cooling with the 2.9 but I don't want the fueling at all. I'll tune completely without the meth kit and then have it come in high, somewhere like 12 or 13 psi, just for cooling to make this 2.9 efficient/effective. I thought about a wide open throttle switch instead of the boost switch but honestly don't feel like messing with all that again.

Now of course it looks like I ran into another issue. The injectors showed up in the mail. They look like nice pieces but I'm worried they're the wrong size.


If you look back in this thread, you'll see that I'm running EV1 style injectors right now that are a bit shorter than stock jbody and supposedly the same size as lsj injectors. So to run them I picked up some bigger injector cups to take up the space. When removing the stock cups they were all destroyed since it's plastic junk. I wanted to keep these nice aluminum cups so I asked the guy for cobalt sized injectors. Here's what I got:

From left to right, the Lucas 42# injector I'm running now, a jbody 36# injector, a new ~70# injector.




Seems like I got hosed and either need to send these back or locate some stock cups (which I hate to do because they're plastic and junky). Clearly the injector I'm running now is shorter than the other 2, both of which seem to be exactly the same size. Look at the o-ring location, not the actual length..

Lastly I'll end on a good note. FINALLY addressing my destroyed front strut mounts tomorrow (thank you, Boston):




"In Oldskool we trust"

Glad your happy with the pulley and belt man, and DAMN 70s huh lol, im only gonna run 60s with a 2.8 pulley on a hybrid engine, but with no meth but looking good, lovin the hood and funny how many people have that hood with eco m62s, you, me (fiberglass style painted gloss black with center painted indigo blue to match car), and blu04dd


FuzzMASTA9

now I see why you need those cups...they were perfectly fine when I removed them. I noticed a few small scratches on the inside after cleaning them up but the injector fit nice and snug in them and Im confident theres no leaking or any issues.

As far as the 70's...must be a TVS in your future! because Im pretty sure your stage 2 (42's) will be fine with any set up you run on an M62 and an aftermarket fuel pump (like me).


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Pete P wrote:Glad your happy with the pulley and belt man, and DAMN 70s huh lol, im only gonna run 60s with a 2.8 pulley on a hybrid engine, but with no meth but looking good, lovin the hood and funny how many people have that hood with eco m62s, you, me (fiberglass style painted gloss black with center painted indigo blue to match car), and blu04dd

Thanks again man! For whatever reason this car LOVES fuel. With the fuel pressure I'm running I'd almost be maxing out 60's just with a 3.1. Definitely loving that most of us run this hood; it's just a sexy beast I guess. It will be painted in those areas for sure since I'll be doing some patch work that will look like crap if not covered up.

blu04DD wrote:now I see why you need those cups...they were perfectly fine when I removed them. I noticed a few small scratches on the inside after cleaning them up but the injector fit nice and snug in them and Im confident theres no leaking or any issues.

As far as the 70's...must be a TVS in your future! because Im pretty sure your stage 2 (42's) will be fine with any set up you run on an M62 and an aftermarket fuel pump (like me).

Thanks BIG TIME for the cups man I really appreciate the help. They look fine to me so I think I'm good to go; just trying to hash out another tuning session with Oldskool. Like said above you'd be surprised how much fuel this thing runs through at WOT. The 2.7gal/hr meth nozzle I have makes no difference in AFR's at WOT. It's strange but it works so I'm not going to complain. Still get 35+mpg on the highway too

I figured if I were going to put the money out for nice injectors I may as well future proof them the best I can. Ask anyone I hang out with up here, all I talk about is having a tvs. I stop myself from buying stuff ALL the time just thinking about lol.



"In Oldskool we trust"

Y3llowCav wrote: Ask anyone I hang out with up here, all I talk about is having a tvs. I stop myself from buying stuff ALL the time just thinking about lol.

i can attest that tvs is almost every other word out of this mans mouth lol

HELL yes im screaming... be ready to read cuz im gonna lay it all out.

first up lets talk about the vernacular. its difficult for people to look at gal/hour or mXX size on nozzles and be able to decipher what exactly the size they mean. there are so many ways to describe meth nozzle sizes it drives me insane lol. when referring to meth nozzle sizes i find its easiest to refer to them in cc/min. this is easiest to relate to actual fuel injector sizes as most people say cc for size or pounds when talking about fuel injectors. and since meth is a secondary fuel source, i feel as though its best to keep it simple. think of it like this... say you are running 550cc injectors. now, compare to your nozzle size, you're ONLY running like a what 150cc nozzle? (just as reference i was running a 375cc, and just about got a 575cc to work properly had i removed more fuel from the tune) a 150cc nozzle is n/a terrority man lol. you say its not affecting your afr? i find that hard to believe but it is a pretty small nozzle so i guess i can see it. that new teeny nozzle you just purchased isnt going to do much for cooling, hell even that 150cc nozzle is pathetic.

what do you mean you solved the issue of going through a lot of it? was it vaccum siphoning? i had that problem for a long time til i got the anti-siphoning solenoid. that fixed it til it got clogged partially open with some debris that had been floating in my tank, then the damn thing started siphoning again, but at that point i knew what to look for. the iat's were like 50 degrees all the time and the blower was ice cold to the touch, not to mention the car ran light dog poo. so i slapped my nitrous fuel solenoid in its stead and that worked perfectly. ive since gotten a new snow solenoid. replaced under warranty. but i digress, did anything of what i just spoke of sound familar to you as far as issues you've had? you can get a check valve to replace the solenoid with but they hinder the flow somewhat and cause a pressure drop. personally, i prefer the solenoid. look at wet nitrous kits, do you see them using check valves to hold back fuel from being vaccum siphoned? no. HELL no. so why wouldnt you want the same professionalism for your methanol kit?

next up, please dont run washer fluid, that shit has nasty chemicals in it that clog meth nozzles/pumps/lines/and filters. you wont believe it til to see it. i ran that stuff in my set-up a lot in the beginning til i started seeing nasty gel looking crap in my nozzle filter and it was leaving this real nasty blue residue build up on the inside of the nozzle. it also didnt help that i was running tap water on occasion as well (distilled is a must as its been filtered and cleaned). stick with the approved stuff, it really works best anyway. at least it did for me. snow's 49% meth / 51% water "boost juice" was awesome in my set-up, it was the magic elixer that knocked my no heat exchanger M45 210* WOT pulls down to the mid 80's in hot july weather.

believe it or not a lot of the meth kit failures you hear about stem from people running un-approved garbage through their systems and having them clog up or cause low flow instances. for something as important as a secondary fuel source you really shouldnt skimp out on the fuel being used. if you want a cheaper solution at least buy your own 100% meth and mix with distilled water. read up on how to mix properly, though.

it's my hope you will re-consider your meth endeavor and continue down the path i KNOW works, which is replacing as much gasoline as possible with meth/water. believe me, you start spraying considerable amounts and your WOT AFR's will DROP and i mean fucking DROP. on "boost juice" with the 575cc nozzle i would see 3 full AFR points drop, so im talking mid 13's down to mid 10's here. the 375cc nozzle dropped about two full points. and let me tell you what, that car responded SOOOO well when i finally pulled the gasoline out of the tune and got it running around mid 12's for AFR. when the meth kicked on it felt like a 50 shot of nitrous, i kid you not. even moreso when i was experimenting with nitro methane added in. and thats a whole 'nother ballgame. i am fairly confident that the meth/nitro meth mixture i had in my car the day it burned was adding up to 60-70whp. and cooling the absolute ish out of the blower to boot.

so back to what i was talking about with the size of the nozzle. 150cc nozzle being expecting to shed enough fueling to quench your high fuel needs? i dont think so. get that size up to around 375cc and get it tuned for it. then look out. you havent even begun to start having fun til you've gotten it dialed in correctly. i was like a giddy little bitch when i got mine working right. after all the bs.... all the messing with stuff, i finally got it down but it took A LOT of reading and research and i am telling you, everything i have said here is coming right from the meth experts themselves. they say the more meth/water you can replace gasoline with and not quench the motor the better. now granted, my far superior american made quad 4 twin cam beast 2.4L is a better/bigger engine but with that billy BA m62 on that emissions control optimization technology 2.2L of yours im saying she'll drink tons of meth and say the words, please sir... id like some more.

injectors, i went through a company called like fast five motorsports or something. got 60# multec 2 mini delphi (thats plug and play for 2000-2005 DOHC j-bodies, mind you) from them, flow matched to perfection with the bad ass cups to bring their height up. they were for a LS style truck motor. and believe you me, they are NICE. (its too bad i never got to use them )



RIP silver car. You will be missed.

been doing some reading, have a bit more info to try and entice you back to the world of meth.

ok, now, bare with me as this is all new information so i will try and go slow. i am not a chemist nor do i know a lot about how this stuff works so if you see something thats not meshing, let me know. i would love to brainstorm this as its got lots of potential possibilities for power.

now, why do we use meth/water injection? simple answer, because it chemically cools our supercharger air charge down thus creating more power because the air entering the engine is more dense. but what else does it do? you can do that just running 100% water so why run the methanol with it? .....because methanol is a fuel source with a high octane rating. and not only that, its an OXIDIZED fuel source. we want the methanol to replace the gasoline (that has ZERO or very low oxygen content) so it can give us a bit more oopmpf, if you will. think of it sort of like spraying nitrous. allbeit a much smaller amount.

this is what i have read....

gasoline - 0-2.5% O2 content
E85 - 35% O2 content
nitrous oxide - 38% O2 content (but it is different and much more concentrated because it has no fuel source to go along with it)
methanol - 49% O2 content
nitro methane - 70% O2 content

what does all this mean? it means that when we spray our methanol/water injection (we'll just use "boost juice" as reference) we are essentially spraying about 25% oxygen content into our engines. (boost juice is 49% meth/51% water)

49% meth / 2 = 24.5% oxygen

this is why nitro methane has such a kick, its 70% O2 and 30% fuel. again, think of it like a liquid nitrous oxide, but instead of a supplemental shot, in top fuel, they use this stuff as the primary fuel source. so its basically like they run on twice the oxygen content as nitrous oxide gives out LOL

what do we learn out of all this? spraying methanol to replace gasoline provides us with oxygen content, an octane increase, and cooling properties. ALL of which = have the ability to provide more power. and thats the name of this ballgame, isnt it?

this is precisely why i ran nitro methane with my methanol. it gives it more oxygen content making it like having a nitrous kit hooked up.



RIP silver car. You will be missed.

Brad I love the passion. So let's start from the top..

I'm happy to talk in cc/min. The reason I talk in gal/hr is because most everyone, including Ryan(my tuner), I've talked to about it uses that unit of measurement. That being said, the current nozzle is 175cc/min which is ~2.77gal/hr. Also it should be noted that I'm running boost juice or the equivalent of it in home mixing. It is definitely affecting my AFRs but only under partial boost, partial throttle situations. Like you said, that's probably because it's not a huge nozzle and could stand to be bigger IF that's the direction I'd like to go.

When I installed the kit I installed the band new solenoid that came from snow. I inspected it, and have tested it since and found it to be working. For whatever reason, that thing must still be leaking and siphoning like a mofo. I went with the AIS check valve because it was cheap, easy, and absolutely fixed my problem. Also, it's easily serviceable unlike the bs solenoid setup. I'm not too worried about flow for a few reasons, which I'll get into in a minute. I'd agree that a nice nitrous solenoid would probably be best but I can't justify the money when something cheap is just as effective (because, tvs).
Next, I'll agree that some washer fluids come with nasty additives that can easily clog things up and render the system ineffective. That's why it's important to ask the supplier for the msds sheet and see exactly what’s in that bottle. There are plenty of companies who only add blue die to a water/methanol mix that is not a gunky additive. I've done the research on this, so I know it will work. It will be A LOT cheaper than what I'm doing now and that’s the name of the game, once again, because tvs.

So, here's the bottom line. I know of multiple blown motors because their meth kits failed for whatever reason and it leaned out. THAT WILL NOT HAPPEN TO ME. I just can't afford it. This car is my daily driver and I would have to tow the car 450 miles to do any major work; or take it up the #$% to have someone else do it here. I got a taste of that when the tranny blew. The situation is that I will absolutely sacrifice some performance for reliability ANY DAY. I absolutely do not want to rely on this system at all to supply my fuel.

That being said, the only way I can accomplish this is to use a smaller nozzle. Therefore I purchased a 63cc/min (~.99gal/hr) nozzle that will continue to cool the charge down and will run mostly water to not only aid in that cooling process but keep most of the AFR dropping methanol out of the mix. As I said before, I’m only interested in cooling at this point. I do not want to pull fuel. I'm planning to run somewhere around 30% meth to 70% water and have it come in around 12psi. By the way, that’s most -20 washer fluid bottles. If that's the case, I think with the 175cc/min nozzle I'd be introducing way too much water into the motor to be healthy.

The other issue is the pump. For whatever reason, it doesn’t flow a nice constant stream when under load but instead pulsates. I’m not sure how else to explain it and I still need to call snow to see if that is normal. Either way, I don’t trust tuning it like that. When I pull the hose off the nozzle it runs constantly like normal. I’ve taken the nozzle apart twice to clean it and found nothing clogging it up.

The injectors you mentioned, do you have the specs for them? Specifically I’m looking for minimum pulse width and spray pattern. The injectors I recently picked up have a stupid low pulse width(I have to check the chart again but I know it's below 1.0ms) that will allow us to dial our idle in much better. They also have the correct split spray pattern to put the fuel right behind both intake valves. I’m planning to do a write up soon in the performance forum, just haven’t had time. These injectors are 630cc/min (60lb/hr ) @ 43.5psi fuel pressure. With the 60 psi base pressure (it rises with boost) that I’m running now that makes them more like 740cc/min (70.5lb/hr).

EDIT: So basically what I'm saying is I agree that there's definitely more power to be had running more meth and pulling more fuel, but I don't like taking the change of something going wrong.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, October 04, 2013 8:53 AM


"In Oldskool we trust"

Whoa! My eyes have been opened!




Did you say my car looks slow??

Abe Jacobs wrote:Whoa! My eyes have been opened!

Meth injection is an AWESOME solution for boosted cars



"In Oldskool we trust"

lol fair enough, bud. in the end its your car and you'll do what you want. at least i can say i tried, right?

one thing though... ive heard a lot of HEARSAY that meth kits have failed (and again what ive heard is because they become glogged due to running washer fluid) but honestly never spoken to anyone with first hand experience. what exactly is failing on them constantly to make meth kits so hated and fear upon? ..i guess i just dont quite understand how a mechanical meth kit is any different than a mechanical fuel system that can fail at any time as well. the argument that "it ran out" is just dumb. i find that a non-issue because if you are too lazy to keep the system full you deserve to go lean LOL. i religously filled mine.

basically, id like to know what has scared you off all of sudden. sure my motor ultimately did blow up but i was using stock pistons and below amatuer level tuning, so... lol

and on the subject of the pulsating spray pattern, was this also doing such with the solenoid or has it only become apparent since the check valve install? on the subject of solenoid vs check valve i suppose i can try to keep an open mind on it but i like to run what the manufacturer recommends. and quite frankly, the more i read about the two, the more i see people wanting to run a solenoid. hell, the only reason i even need a solenoid is because i dont want all that liquid going through my throttle body with its sensors and what not. i drowned out a handful of TPS's and it really got old quick, and that was with the nozzle AFTER the tb. i cant imagine how much worse it would be before it.



RIP silver car. You will be missed.

Y3llowCav wrote:

Abe Jacobs wrote:Whoa! My eyes have been opened!

Meth injection is an AWESOME solution for boosted cars

agreed. ive seen what it can do first hand and i gotta say, its worth it. it takes some getting used to and definitely has a learning curve but once you've got things figured out its such a godsend.

i dont care what anybody says, chemical cooling will ALWAYS be best.



RIP silver car. You will be missed.

You certainly did, lol. I guess the problem is that nothing's good enough for Cassandra I tend to air in the favor of caution and that's kept this car alive for plenty of abuse so far. Honestly what scared me off was how chessy the parts for the kit seem to be; especially with this solenoid fiasco. With the pump also acting strange, I just don't trust it at all. Maybe if I bought it all new I'd have a little more faith. It has acted like this since day one. The pump has a pressure adjustment so when I turn the pressure up the pulses get faster and vice versa with lower pressure. That leads me to believe that's how it regulates, but who knows for sure..

I actually liked the idea of a solenoid which is why I installed it in the first place. If it were working properly, it would definitely be far superior to a simple check valve. Since I won't be using this for fueling anymore, the potential flow loss from the check valve is all but irrelevant to me.

One person I know had the pump just straight up fail on him. Obviously, that ended in catastrophic engine failure. Another had a piece of foil from the bottle seal get into the tank and all the way up to the back of the nozzle where it pressed against the opening and prevented the water/meth from flowing almost all together. That also ended in a piston with a new oiling hole. Although, that probably could have been avoided with a filter after the tank. I've also heard of relay failure being a problem. If these things fail on the stock fuel system the engine just runs out of fuel and stops. But with meth injection it'll just run lean and blow up. That's what I'm afraid of.

I'm spraying right after the tb too so I'm a little worried about the sensors but I'm hoping for the best.



"In Oldskool we trust"

-Z Yaaaa- wrote:

Y3llowCav wrote:

Abe Jacobs wrote:Whoa! My eyes have been opened!

Meth injection is an AWESOME solution for boosted cars

agreed. ive seen what it can do first hand and i gotta say, its worth it. it takes some getting used to and definitely has a learning curve but once you've got things figured out its such a godsend.

i dont care what anybody says, chemical cooling will ALWAYS be best.

Especially when you consider the price of a basic kit. 300 bucks for the awesome benefits and gains is easy math.



"In Oldskool we trust"

I am like you and error on the side of caution.

Although I feel with a afr and interceptor gauge im fairly safe to turn up the meth.

Philly D wrote:I am like you and error on the side of caution.

Although I feel with a afr and interceptor gauge im fairly safe to turn up the meth.

I'm to the point where every time I floor it my eyes are glued to the wideband wondering if today is going to be the day. Driving the car isn't even fun anymore I'm so worried about meth injection failure.



"In Oldskool we trust"

This conversation just made me go from 6 to midnight....

#yolo...

You have an interceptor right?

Set the annunciator for 2-3kr and enjoy your car.

You can also look into a flow gauge, or switch.

That way you know what your flowing.

Andrew Cramer wrote:This conversation just made me go from 6 to midnight....

LOL

Philly D wrote:#yolo...

You have an interceptor right?

Set the annunciator for 2-3kr and enjoy your car.

You can also look into a flow gauge, or switch.

That way you know what your flowing.

I'm running an AEM wideband. It doesn't have the functions that the interceptor package has but it works great and is 100% care free.

Originally I looked into flow gauges for that reason. Problem is only 2 people make them, AEM and Snow Performance. The Snow unit only works with their expensive "safe injection" system which I don't have so that option is out. The AEM unit is around 250 bucks, haven't found anything used or cheaper in 6 months of looking. I may still go that route but....tvs.

There's also the option of rigging up some sort of water pressure gauge but I really hate doing things wrong and nothing comes in a convenient 52mm size. But, it would be pretty cheap to do.



"In Oldskool we trust"