Hold that bitch wide open and crank it!



"In Oldskool we trust"

^^^that won't help, it's gotta be fuel or spark, if the sensor isn't close enough it's not gonna get a good signal to turn on the spark or fuel. Basically missing the " go ahead" from the crank and not letting it fire? Maybe try and move the sensor a little closer?

the sensor is pretty close as is. its exactly 1/8" off.i don't want to go any closer because it might hit at higher RPMs. plus its a hassel, id have to redesign or configure the whole bracket setup to adjust it.
I tried swaping the LSJ coil boots out but the springs inside the boots would hit, they're longer than the L61 boot springs.
double checked all the fuses, and the cps wire has continuity so don't think its that.

ill go at it again tomorrow (today). I even swapped ECUs out and I never get the theft light to come on. with HPTuners my tuner turned it off on the one he programmed and I think vince turned it off on the one he messed with.




04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

blu04DD wrote:the sensor is pretty close as is. its exactly 1/8" off.i don't want to go any closer because it might hit at higher RPMs. plus its a hassel, id have to redesign or configure the whole bracket setup to adjust it.
I tried swaping the LSJ coil boots out but the springs inside the boots would hit, they're longer than the L61 boot springs.
double checked all the fuses, and the cps wire has continuity so don't think its that.

ill go at it again tomorrow (today). I even swapped ECUs out and I never get the theft light to come on. with HPTuners my tuner turned it off on the one he programmed and I think vince turned it off on the one he messed with.

1/8 of an inch is like trying to see someone standing on the moon. Every crank trigger I have seen is a few mm from touching. Just google crank triggers and you will see what I mean. Not sure about ecos but 3500 triggers and every other engine I have seen they are usually vary close. Below is a close up of an MR2






On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.

Also msd kits recommend it set at .060 inches and but says .050- .080 inches is ok. Just trying to help.




On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.

Your sensor placement is fine at 1/8". Mine is about the same, with no issue, and same goes for several local swaps before me:



Get to close and you will risk contact from vibration...ask me how I know. 3200rpm seems to make just the right vibration to slap the sensor if it's too close (though when it happened to me, I was using a bit more of a flimsy bracket at first, so that may have also accounted for it). But the VR sensor is a bit more forgiving with distance/placement.

Now if it were a hall effect CPS, then it would need to be pretty precise. For example, the LSJ/LE5 are both hall effect in their stock form, and when LSJ guys toss an LE5 bottom end in their car, they need to space out the CPS in the LE5 block for the PCM to read it correctly.

matt, yours almost looks further away than even mine is. I was testing the magnets strength with the trigger wheel when I had the motor out and it seemed to detect pretty far away, well within 1/8" distance. Maybe mine is more sensitive or maybe my cps is bad now? Im able to pull the whole thing off and if it comes to it, I could at least try moving it closer. but as you stated, I don't want it hitting the wheel and damaging it completely.

two GROUNDS are bothering me though. I couldn't find any of my pictures that showed their original location.
ground 1, coming off the battery tray for the negative cable. I have it going down to the front of the transmission on a large bolt that's obviously intended for holding grounds. Even the marks on the ground connector match the notches in the washer.
ground 2, on the harness going to the back of the engine to the CTS and reverse switch. I have it grounded off on just an eye hole/loop on the top of the transmission.

I did also sand down/file the location of the ground strap from the head to the valve cover because that was painted over, but its good now.

I don't think Ive properly attempted the 3 tries of the passlock yet which I can do. But wouldn't it show the THEFT light if it was the passlock? And if the ECU thats on the car now, couldn't I rule that out if my tuner actually turned off the theftsystem with HPTuners?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

heres something interesting I just discovered while trying the 3step relearn process again. I had a large flathead and was holding the sensor down closer to the crank wheel. it didn't do anything when trying to start. But I did notice when I tap the sensor with the screw driver (basically poke it at the base) I hear the fuel system charging. It'll do it every time I tap the sensor hard enough (im doing this from up above by the motor mount).

so hitting the sensor causes the fuel line to prime...whats the relevance?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Magnetic tip screwdriver? Maybe you should try a new sensor and see what happens.



"In Oldskool we trust"

I don't have a spare L61 sensor...maybe autozone carries them...Ill check.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

I have a new cps I just picked up from AZ. we'll see how it works.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

new CPS did nothing. same thing if I tap it with ignition ON, it primes the fuel.
but I don't think my CPS was bad. its gotta be either the CPS simply isn't reading the trigger wheel position properly (timing) or ive got a ground/wiring issue elsewhere.

talking with my tuner now to see if he can come scan it to see if everything looks good from a computer perspective.



04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

So fuel pump is not priming when you turn the key on?



FU Tuning

also..is it possible the fuel pump is bad? its a a little over a year and a half old i think. Its a racetronix wbody pump/harness. its definitely priming and the plugs have fuel on them, but maybe the pump is failing to supply enough to start?

my tuner isn't available until early Wednesday. that means nothing but guess work until then... :/


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

If the pump primes pressure its fine.

Sounds like you arent getting spark.

I swapped motors ages ago in my last cav.

Used the same PCM and just swapped motors.

Anyways I cranked the motor over for close to 2 hours before it started. No clue as to why.

yeah the pump primes and works fine. just wasn't sure if it had different voltages or something during prime and constant to run..like maybe it was going bad.
but I swapped the two cables for the fuel pump and the forward O2 sensor too. I think I had them backwards...they're the same connectors. But even after a battery reset and trying it, same deal.

I don't know what to do from here. I mean if I have to I can tear the blower and intake manifold out and reinspect all the connections, but Ive gone over them as much as I think I can.

Its gotta be the CPS somehow or like stated, ignition.

I do notice if I crank it for more than a few seconds, I see smoke coming from the PCV port on the back of the valve cover. At first I couldn't tell where it was and thought I had a short...was crappin muh pants for about a minute lol

Other things to note that I found while under the car...driver side axle is leaking...I should have replaced the seal on the transaxle before putting it back...smh. Also, I noticed a tiny bit of water below the ZZP heat exchanger bottom nozzle...so I might need to tighten that up as well. I think I fixed the small oil leak from the oil cooler adapter plate where the valve wasn't as tight as it could have been. Also a slight leak from the exhaust cam block off plate since the damn thing was slightly bowed. Sadly, I welcome all these things as they are easy fixes compared to the car not starting.. (except the axle leak..ill have to pull the whole damn thing out again..).

was such a beautiful cool day in TX today too..would have been a great day to let her breath and then wait for the tuner on Wed...then take it to an alignment shop and start driving her. .......soon I hope.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Sorry I haven't followed your thread. What motor were you and did you swap to?

It does sound lie cps issue. You could reverse the wires and see if it starts.



FU Tuning

Addicted to meth wrote:Sorry I haven't followed your thread. What motor were you and did you swap to?

It does sound lie cps issue. You could reverse the wires and see if it starts.

Might be on to something...Derek are you using the little 3-4" during extension that goes between the full harness and the actual cps sensor? I believe that reverses polarity, so if you aren't using it, polarity could be wrong. That extention is definitely need on the eco.

I forgot what you did for coil packs...did you modify the l61 pack to fit, or wire in lsj coils?

And john, he swapped from L61 to LSJ

I did not know about the extension, but we had this problem once and cut and swapped the wires.



FU Tuning

I have the full LSJ swap replacing my L61 as Matt said.
I did use the little CPS extension that's only like 6 inches, goes from the sensor to the harness (white clip (harness) to black clip (cps). I spliced it, then just extended the same wires (purple to purple, yellow to yellow). Im not sure how Id have crossed its polarity...I guess worse case scenario I cut up the one I made, try reversing it, and plug it in and crank it up. I have nothing to lose really. I can always splice it back.

but yeah matt, I basically just extended the one that was on the car already, nothing complicated.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Yea you're fine how you have it wired. The polarity only needs switched when using an LD9 harness for an eco, which I assume maybe John thought that was the case.

EVILution (KGMs FrankenCav) wrote:Yea you're fine how you have it wired. The polarity only needs switched when using an LD9 harness for an eco, which I assume maybe John thought that was the case.

Actually had another guy using a Ecotec ecu, but used (I think a LSJ) sensor and it was reversed. Required him to reverse it to get ti to run right.



FU Tuning

What if painting it lessons the signal? same way as paint needs to be ground of for a ground? i dunno just grasping at straws

It should make that much of a difference, its a big piece of steel

Addicted to meth wrote:

EVILution (KGMs FrankenCav) wrote:Yea you're fine how you have it wired. The polarity only needs switched when using an LD9 harness for an eco, which I assume maybe John thought that was the case.

Actually had another guy using a Ecotec ecu, but used (I think a LSJ) sensor and it was reversed. Required him to reverse it to get ti to run right.

He's using an L61 sensor.