Tinkles(KGM) wrote:You cannot put 100% of the blame on the cams when the engine wasn't 100%.
Meh
Matt Linke wrote:That sucks about e85 availability; but at least you have methanol going in there, that helps!
I dont agree with running 100+ unless you intend to run it all the time. Though I have always been an advocate of the cars ability to do everything it is supposed to do all the time (discounting weather conditions that you cant control).
I don't plan to run it all the time. I'll just put a tank in, tune, dyno, run it out, go back to 93 and retune.
Travis Bennett wrote:nice build i watch couple your youtube vids pretty good do you no how to get a hold of oldskool
Thanks man. I have his e-mail but if you're not able to get to central pa it's not worth even contacting him. I can also tell you that he's super busy lately and won't be taking on new cars until spring. I can also tell you Trent Judy lives in WV and may be able to help you out. You can contact him on one of various the facebook groups.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Cool stuff👍
Is it me or is your heat exchanger off centered? Not that it matters
Troys SS wrote:Cool stuff👍
Is it me or is your heat exchanger off centered? Not that it matters
It is, I did that on purpose so the hoses weren't stressing the elbows on the exchanger.
"In Oldskool we trust"
ok thanks i been talking to trent hes close thx man
Thanks to 35" of snow, you're getting an update.
I was having an issue that rendered the car useless for another week. The car would start up and rev in spot but would stall every time I attempted to pull out. Because it's a terrible setup, I immediately blamed the trigger wheel and sensor. I worked on getting the sensor closer to the trigger than before, mission accomplished:
Before:
After:
You may notice the wiring is a little different. That's because I found the actual cause of the issue while I was there. I let the car idle and moved the wire to the crank sensor. As soon as I tapped it the car died. Behind the retaining clip on the back of the plug:
I eliminated the strange adapter that GM used and soldered the correct end on the harness to go directly to the sensor:
Works great now!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb8s6YKfILg
The car drove amazing all night that day. Unfortunately I haven't been able to drive it since because..
So, hopefully I'll be dug out by the 2015-2016 bash!
"In Oldskool we trust"
Dam...we got no snow here in Chicagoland. I feel for you...too much snow for my blood.
where did you get the crank trigger and wheel how much did it cost
Travis Bennett wrote:where did you get the crank trigger and wheel how much did it cost
It came as a package deal with the motor. Honestly not sure where you can get them anymore. There was a group buy proposal a while back for a better one but I'm not sure it ever took off.
All that being said, beware of the issues these things create. I've had nothing but trouble with mine and I strongly suggest you go another route that incorporates and l61 crank whether stock or forged (if you can find one that isn't for an LAP motor).
"In Oldskool we trust"
Tce makes them for 660 engines. You have to modify it.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Y3llowCav wrote:Travis Bennett wrote:where did you get the crank trigger and wheel how much did it cost
It came as a package deal with the motor. Honestly not sure where you can get them anymore. There was a group buy proposal a while back for a better one but I'm not sure it ever took off.
All that being said, beware of the issues these things create. I've had nothing but trouble with mine and I strongly suggest you go another route that incorporates and l61 crank whether stock or forged (if you can find one that isn't for an LAP motor).
This is the "new" style. It bolts to the actual crank pulley and has the ability to be fine tuned.
Haven't updated in a while so, much pictures such update!
First, Pete hooked me up and ported a stock l61 throttle body for me. Still not nearly as big as it should be, but it definitely helped in the mid range:
Then another hook up, this time from Mike, for some ARP hardware. I replaced more than what is pictured, need to snap a few more shots:
Next, I finally got my hands on a TTR upper mount. Needed some paint:
Then I picked up another stage 2 belt and came up with a decent way to cut the 6th rib off. I cut a board to a length that stretched it out nicely for a cleaner cut:
Mint:
Also FINALLY located and installed an LSJ alternator. That's been bothering me for a while:
Also installed a ZZP adjustable tensioner setup. For those who don't know, you need to add a washer or two under the top mount of the shock to keep it straight:
Onto problems. I discovered my downpipe from the pacesetter header looking like this:
Luckily I was near a great custom exhaust shop that was able to recreate the piece in new steel for me. I was busy, so I didn't snap any pics. I'd love to add a flex pipe instead but I had no time to mess with it.
Then there was the prothane trans mount issue.. They did exactly what everyone says they do, and deformed. You can see the gap next to the bushing here:
So, I made a new bushing that's substantially bigger and pressed it in:
Much better:
No pictures of this, but I also ran into trouble with the Aeromotive AFPR. It seemed like either it or the pump wasn't holding pressure on the top end. After swapping to a stock regulator, I confirmed that the AFPR was indeed the culprit. I had just rebuilt it a few months ago so I'm not sure I'll ever be using it again.
As she sits now:
Not sure what happened to the filter, it's next on the list:
While I was in Pennsylvania I took a few fun videos, enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89wSCR5DjMo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twShtnujHFQ
Bonus video, tuning my old man's 76 stingray with a built 350 and a turbo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhs4dDNkyTI
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, April 29, 2015 3:48 PM
"In Oldskool we trust"
Philly D wrote:maybe this is an option?
https://www.tpis.com/parts/bycategory/Fuel
Possibly. I haven't really missed the boost reference function. I've gotten it dialed in pretty well with the stock regulator and if I need more I can always up my 0 vac pulsewidth multiplier a little.
"In Oldskool we trust"
The stock fpr is also boost referenced 1:1. So that's probably why you haven't missed it.
I thought you needed the extra base fuel pressure.
Philly D wrote:I thought you needed the extra base fuel pressure.
I've found that this is no longer the case when the regulator actually holds the pressure it is supposed to hold. The 60s are plenty for this setup now.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Good to know.....scratch afpr off the list
glad to see some video's on the cavi, any build threads for the turbo vette?
JUCNBST wrote:glad to see some video's on the cavi, any build threads for the turbo vette?
To be honest it's just kind of cobbled together. It looks neat and sounds cool but the cav could take it any day. There was no research done and as a result the turbo is way too small and the injectors are tiny. I may have some pictures of it somewhere..
"In Oldskool we trust"
Those ARP bolts and stinger washers are looking great!! You need to catch up with me!!
FU Tuning
Nice. You need the hood latch ones, iac ones. Upper motor mount ones.
You also need stinger washers for the strut mount ones.
FU Tuning
Addicted to meth wrote:Nice. You need the hood latch ones, iac ones. Upper motor mount ones.
You also need stinger washers for the strut mount ones.
I have the hood latch ones just haven't felt like putting them on yet. The upper mount bolts and nuts are installed but I didn't take any pictures. I would like some stingers for the strut mount nuts though!
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:Addicted to meth wrote:Nice. You need the hood latch ones, iac ones. Upper motor mount ones.
You also need stinger washers for the strut mount ones.
I have the hood latch ones just haven't felt like putting them on yet. The upper mount bolts and nuts are installed but I didn't take any pictures. I would like some stingers for the strut mount nuts though!
agreed.
Everything is looking great man.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Looking great. Love the ARP valve cover bolts, I have a nice set myself but now that I have a built head, I am all into ARP. Thanks for giving me the idea definitely gonna copy it
So with that said, part number please lol. I would like to use them on the hood as you did as well.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Mike Davis can help you out. I'll let him know you're interested.
"In Oldskool we trust"