A Fox wrote:
I'm signed up for the school and am looking forward to attending
do you know if Sean is an instructor?...
I'm used to F and Y cars, can't seem to get a handle on this front drive low power stuff and need a lot of help....
I was not asked to be an instuctor, so I will not be there. I am certain you'll have someone decent though. I can help you out at future events though.
I'll actually be in Toledo beating up on Maurice's car.
Maurice - Best have those Azenis scrubbed in before that Airport, you thought the push was bad at Poletown! HA! And get more toeout up front please. You think it turns now on the street. HA! I can pass along my last year toe settings if you want to try those.
Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....
Two posts in two days from the autoxfool? Bored lately huh? Glad to see you back on the org every now and then.
Anyways, to update my current season: Pretty much non existant. My car keeps breaking on me and school keeps kickin my $#@. I have no race tires left and no money any time soon to buy some. I hate cavaliers. This is the last time I make the mistake of owning a chevrolet car(except maybe a corvette).
Zach wrote:Two posts in two days from the autoxfool? Bored lately huh? Glad to see you back on the org every now and then.
Anyways, to update my current season: Pretty much non existant. My car keeps breaking on me and school keeps kickin my $#@. I have no race tires left and no money any time soon to buy some. I hate cavaliers. This is the last time I make the mistake of owning a chevrolet car(except maybe a corvette).
Yeah I'm around.
What keeps breaking?? Just buy some street tires to use and get seat time. Be cheaper and last longer too.
Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....
Lost my transmission this week.
Other things wrong:
Keep breaking wheel bearings. (look at my sig to see why...)
struts/shocks are completely shot
Brakes need replacing
A/C compressor leaks (not that i use it that much)
Fuel injector o-ring leaks
Exhaust is rubbing on my transmission pan, and a mount broke so it rattles
My daily driving tires are bald (replaced 2 already..)
To add to this, my dash cracked in two places this week.
I was using Azenis. I think I'll try and find an MX or victoracers in a 14" wheel since I have some spare steelies. I'm selling my OEM wheels (off a 2003) to pay for some new street tires that are going on my 16" wheels I was using for racing.
AutoXFool wrote:A Fox wrote:
I'm signed up for the school and am looking forward to attending
do you know if Sean is an instructor?...
I'm used to F and Y cars, can't seem to get a handle on this front drive low power stuff and need a lot of help....
I was not asked to be an instuctor, so I will not be there. I am certain you'll have someone decent though. I can help you out at future events though.
I'll actually be in Toledo beating up on Maurice's car.
Maurice - Best have those Azenis scrubbed in before that Airport, you thought the push was bad at Poletown! HA! And get more toeout up front please. You think it turns now on the street. HA! I can pass along my last year toe settings if you want to try those.
ok sean what were your toe settings i know your camber was 2deg what was your toe?
see ya!
Zach wrote:Lost my transmission this week.
Other things wrong:
Keep breaking wheel bearings. (look at my sig to see why...)
struts/shocks are completely shot
Brakes need replacing
A/C compressor leaks (not that i use it that much)
Fuel injector o-ring leaks
Exhaust is rubbing on my transmission pan, and a mount broke so it rattles
My daily driving tires are bald (replaced 2 already..)
To add to this, my dash cracked in two places this week.
I was using Azenis. I think I'll try and find an MX or victoracers in a 14" wheel since I have some spare steelies. I'm selling my OEM wheels (off a 2003) to pay for some new street tires that are going on my 16" wheels I was using for racing.
Sheesh, I never went through a wheel bearing racing. One was replaced around 4000 miles mainly due to a Michigan pothole that also bent the rim. They've been a-okay since and lord knows my car was up the same way the picture is many more times than your Cav has thus far.
Brakes - Plan on doing the fronts every year. A full bleed 2x a year if heavily racing, I would recommend (though I usually manage to do 1) Buy a pad with LLT warranty and you won't pay for those again, unless you want to try something different. Find a rotor that gives at least a 2 year warranty and you'll be able to replace those too without cost as they will be worn out in 2 years.
New calipers are cheap if you find your pads are wearing funny, which I did, and they usually carry a warranty too. I've never had to replace my rears yet but am going too given the age of them now. Who has a shoe pad suggestion??
Dash - Mine has a crack right up against the window in the frickin middle. Naturally it's the piece that can't be replaced. That thing rattles like you would not believe on cold Michigan days, esp with a stiff suspension. The heat from the sun actually expands the plastic enough it basically seals itself so I like sunny days even more.
Trans - Auto right?
And smack the people that build that car! Sheesh, that's just bad luck there. How many miles on the thing? You may have to use the tag of Crapalier too.
Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....
hey autox fool i just remembred that i have the longest (soft setting) rear swaybar endlinks in the rear
going outside to change them right now
i did that to settle the rearend down for the winter
see ya!
the end-links don't change the stiffness of the bar but when it comes in
i say this because with the long links the car did not turn in well but with the STD addco links it turns in nice and crisp
and i mean NOW!WOW!
see ya!
WAiT U cant flip ur car right ?
My car has a young 126,000 miles on it
. It is the epitomey of a crapalier. As far as the wheel bearings, I torque them down to spec and for some reason the nut on the axle kept coming loose( I started using loc tite after this and one of them still went bad). Im guessing the brakes I have generate much more heat than my OEM ones and then turning the car as hard as possible after you get the bearings nice and hot is what is causing them to fail.
mmm Just put new kyb agx', rotars, and hawk hps brake pads on yesterday, off to go get an alignment. Also got a new air filter for my intake
~~~
post your settings on the agx;s and what you think of the car after your next event
Just for FYI josh last Sunday me and autoxfool were on 2front and 6 rear for autoxfool and me on 2front and 7 rear because Sean said that it pushed. so i moved the rear up to 7 but the car still did not turn in good enough. I did have the rear bar set with the long end-links now with the short end-links and more air it is better but to me the front is still lacking front end grip.
now when i was in GS i tried 1and 7 and the car felt like it rolled too much but my lap times were 7tenths faster. but the car would snap over-steer
well settings like what would you think would happen lol
i think that i will try 1f 5 or 6 rear at the next event in Ohio
see ya!
I'm running eibach pro kit, agx's, eibach front/rear sways, freedom design front/rear strut tower bars
I've been driving them around on 1 and its soooo nice. I'm thinking 2 in the front and 6 or 7 in the rear. Its looking like tommarow we'll be autocrossing in the rain so I might go 5 or 4 in the rear. It also depends on what I end up running for tire preasure. I've notice so far that the new falkens like a little bit higher air preasure then the old ones.
is that rear bar adjustable?
see ya!
Quote:
is that rear bar adjustable?
No, however I think eibach must have done some testing before putting it on the market though because it complements the suspension perfectly. Not to little not to much.
At the end of the day (50 degree's or so) I ended up running 42 psi in the front tires, 45 psi in the rears, kyb's set on 4 in the front and 6 in the rear. The coarse was 40 mph turns and I found that setup gave me the best turn in. So I don't think that it will be typical.
ok wow 45 in the rear
i see
on the scca forms they were saying how it is hard to get the cars to rotate on the new azenis and the still have to water them
see ya!
Ya, I could see that problem for the novice tuner. Once I got the suspension figured out, car handles like its on freaking rails. I took some pretty scare turns with gas pedal down to the floor, and just a little left foot brake. I didn't even use heal n toe this event, no reason to downshift from 2nd.
Joshua Huber wrote:Ya, I could see that problem for the novice tuner. Once I got the suspension figured out, car handles like its on freaking rails. I took some pretty scare turns with gas pedal down to the floor, and just a little left foot brake. I didn't even use heal n toe this event, no reason to downshift from 2nd.
those were your cold pressures right
glad to see you got the car dialed in
but 40mph turns would be fun
with your foot to the floor
see ya!
out of my 4 runs, I took 3 people for rides they will never forget muahaha. Our club has a FM transmitter now, and its funny to listen to them talk about your runs hehe.
I ended up running 104.119 good enough for 2nd place in sts (out of 15 cars or so) and the fastest sm car was only 59.xx so I was pretty happy with the cavvy's performance.
yep those are the toe settings(toe-out)for the front because i did not want to go too wild and eat my tires up. but i think that is soon to change. if i still cannot get the car to turn in better. but steady state it had a mild push also and turned in better when i took out the long addco links and put the STD links back in and went up in rear air pressure. but autoxfool is co-driving with me Sunday and i have a temp probe so we can nail down the tire pressures and shock settings
see ya!
anyway the rear is dead nuts zero toe and 1deg camber and the front toe is +.03 and 2deg camber