I'm one of the fewest high modified all motor autos on here with an ECO and that's the missing link, my torque converter upgrade. I'm skipping over it though and hopefully getting the GM charger...mmm forced induction.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Also, I believe fuel is an issue with people. No one bothers to upgrade or check how much fuel they are using and do all these "air flow" and "exhaust flow" modifications. I've noticed that our comptuers tend to run rich and in my case, I was running really rich (not rich enough for a code though) and my SAFC-2 saved my car. I have much better gas mileage, better high end power and is probably one of the best supporting products I've gotten....Thanks Apexi
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
when i was NA my afrs at full throttle were between 12.4 to 12.8 between 3000 to redline which is pretty good for boost but not NA
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Ok sorry to highjack the thread but... I thought an open diff transfered power to the same wheel also. If thats the case how come some autos spin both wheels? But then again some dont. When my friend with a manual burns out and drives hard her "drive tire" gets worn down but the other one doesn't even look touched. But both of my wheels get shreaded. Anyone else know why that is?
"Fu'k displacement, I'd rather be blown."
An open diff puts power to the wheel with the least traction. Under even traction conditions, power is going to both wheels. So if both break loose together, both will spin.
before my intake i ran a 15.90 in my 2.4 auto...putting header on tonight so hopefully 2marrow at the track ill be 15.7ish hopefully.
dragracemyz24 wrote: I can see how a 5 speed could be quicker but it is hard to get the perfect launch everytime so therefore I would have to say autos would be quicker 8 out of 10 times. 
I would have to agree, it's difficult to have a perfect launch and perfect shifts everytime.
Cavalier Z24
^^ this isn't the versus forum.
Take all the BSing there.
My Car
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Mylife75 wrote:A perfect example of a mod that can slow you down. A flywheel if you don't shift fast enough then the flywheel will drop your revs to lower faster hurting your 1/4 mile times.
Just shift faster than, so the rpm won't drop more than they should. And the flywheel will make your engine rev faster so in turn you accelerate faster amd get better times.
15.891 @ 88 mph stock, still getting @!#$ty launches...
Boardorgohome wrote:lets just settle it, u come down to pa and we will line it up at the track 
d
Yes, let me start my 4 day trip spanning 2,000 miles to race an automatic cavalier. But....
If you really want to prove yourself lmk. Any thursday at Irwindale. Ca that is.
Also dante: the lighter flywheel will have less momentom when you shift. So a lw flywheel is recommended for higher modified vehicles. On a near stock motor you are going to want that extra momentom. ask around to diff people that have a lw flywheel. Ask for their times before and after. I think QBE's times suffered. Just to name a name off the top of my head.
My Car
I seem to remember that QBE's times dropped because of the clutch/flywheel combo. stage 3 clutch is a bit extreme. Also what do you mean by momentum ? I didn't understand that.
15.891 @ 88 mph stock, still getting @!#$ty launches...
What's easier to stop a 5 lb or 50 lb ball?
The 50 would be harder to stop.
The heavier flywheel will continue to rotate while the ligher one will "stop"
My Car
Sunfires rule! (Tom) wrote:Boardorgohome wrote:lets just settle it, u come down to pa and we will line it up at the track
d
Yes, let me start my 4 day trip spanning 2,000 miles to race an automatic cavalier. But....
If you really want to prove yourself lmk. Any thursday at Irwindale. Ca that is.
Also dante: the lighter flywheel will have less momentom when you shift. So a lw flywheel is recommended for higher modified vehicles. On a near stock motor you are going to want that extra momentom. ask around to diff people that have a lw flywheel. Ask for their times before and after. I think QBE's times suffered. Just to name a name off the top of my head.
halfway maybe? lol jk man.....i wouldnt drive 2000 miles to race a 5spd Sunfire
2007 GM Tuner Bash...HELL YEA
PA,MD,NJ,DE,NY and all states north caravan
Shore wrote:dragracemyz24 wrote: I can see how a 5 speed could be quicker but it is hard to get the perfect launch everytime so therefore I would have to say autos would be quicker 8 out of 10 times.
I would have to agree, it's difficult to have a perfect launch and perfect shifts everytime.
Not so. If you practice and pay attention it is not.
FU Tuning
DanteMustDie wrote:Mylife75 wrote:A perfect example of a mod that can slow you down. A flywheel if you don't shift fast enough then the flywheel will drop your revs to lower faster hurting your 1/4 mile times.
Just shift faster than, so the rpm won't drop more than they should. And the flywheel will make your engine rev faster so in turn you accelerate faster amd get better times.
just keep the gas on the floor when shifting.
FU Tuning
Quote:
Just been looking around for the past week or so after i went to the track and it seems that my auto time is faster than some manual times with alot more stuff done. Is my car and odd ball or is it just alot harder to get better times in the manuals?
It all depends on the driver. 4 cyl engines have very little launch power behind them and that only makes a stick better for them. BUT and auto is the best for anything forced air induction. With a manual the BOV will engage every time you shift gears. But with an auto the trans shifts without activating the BOV. Mopar release a SCCA series of trainning manuals to biulding hydralic trans. The info transfers over well to GMs.
Team Tach Out
Http://www.team-tachout.com/
Falmouth,VA
