More clutch work and less dumping it will help 10 fold.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
I tryed that and had less wheel hop,but didnt no if it was slowing me down or not,next saturday I will try that out some more,any other tips would be well apreciated,and what about powershifting?I tryed it but didnt see any improvments,But I dont like to because when I shift it makes some squek noise,and I dont wanna tear up anything,Im pretty quick without powershifting anyways.I got street tires and when I go to the staging lanes should I do a burnout?I didnt do one cause people say its useless on street tires,whats everyones take on this?Thank you all for showing me the light and getting me off the street racing scene,this is so much more fun cause I really didnt wanna get stoped by the law anyways,I never imagined it would be so much more competitive,cause on the streets you just honk the horn and go here you have to show more skill than that its GREAT.Im hooked.Now all I need is a fast car....lol
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
You don't need to warm up your tires really if they are just street tires. Like Taetsch Z-24 said, don't dump the clutch on take-off, apply the power smooth and steadily. Your tires will spin a little bit but not hop. If you are really having trouble, polyurethane control arm bushings will help control the hop more. If you can already shift quickly I would concentrate more on your launch and improve your 60' times and save the abuse on the transmission until you have that all dialed.
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<<<<<2003 Sunfire Sedan>>>>>
Allright sounds good,I got the control arm bushings but I have to rent a spring compressor at autozone I guess,I hope there not any harder to get to than the trans mounts they were a bi**h!
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
WHY do you need a spring compresser to get the bushings in?
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
I'm guessing you're putting on new shocks/springs at the same time as doing the control arm bushings... otherwise maybe you should check out the how-to on installing them. If you are going to rent anything, rent an arbor press.
Trans mounts are a pain...unless you use a bajillion extensions on your ratchet/breaker like i did
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<<<<<2003 Sunfire Sedan>>>>>
Hydraulic press.... it was easy.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
so how do you do the bushing install without a compressor?Does anybody have any directions?I want to jump on it first thing tomorrow.Or any pics of the install,thanks.
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
To be honest i don't know why you need a compressor either. Okay loosen lugs, jack up front end, take off wheel, take out lower motor mount on pass. side (if you are doing the driver side take off the metal that connects subframe to radiator support) take out horizontal control arm bolt in that recess you just exposed, take out other large control arm bolt. Disconnect the stabilizer endlink, pop balljoint free from knuckle, disconnect any abs sensors/wiring if so equipped. Move knuckle out of the way a bit and pull like hell and probably use a prybar until you shimmy the control arm out.
Press the small bushing through and out using something round and of a similar inner diameter and a vice, grease up two bushing halves put the pin in one of them, and press them and into the control arm in the vice.
Get an exacto knife or similar ripping and tearing device and obliterate the large bushing. Use a hacksaw and cut the metal ring out (careful not to go too deep it's thin). Grease up big bushing, put it and control arm in a vice with something flat to distribute the weight against the back of the bushing. (make sure beveled edge of bushing is facing control arm). Vice em together until it's all said and done.
Reinstall control arm opposite of removal.
No compressors needed, you don't disconnect your spring/shock.
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<<<<<2003 Sunfire Sedan>>>>>
Ok cool thanks,I thought that when I took the control arm bolts out then.The spring would pop off,but I guess not.
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
not on a McPherson strut setup. The springs is contained on the strut, it doesn't touch the control arm
Oh ok cool,I will jump on It then.
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
Well I didnt get around to the bushings but I went to the track anyways,and I ran a 10.494 this time,so Im getting a little better.I put a cone filter on it and relocated the ecu yesterday.And I put a quater tank of 93 octane and some octane booster.My best reaction time was a .018.
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
putting in higher octane in a car that does not require it is a waste. so was that octane boost
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
your hurting performance with the high octane.
Most people don't understand how octane works.... the higher octane the harder it is to burn. 87 octane is alot more explosive so to speak, the only reason you would need higher octane is when your running boost of high compression or something, something that equates to higher cylinder pressures, when the pressures go up the fuel start to ignite ignite itself when its not supossed to.... the fix for that, higher octane, since its harder to burn it will resist setting itself off when it shouldn't.
Low octane is the more aggressive fuel, when you need low and your running high all your doing is emptying your pocket and hurting performance.
hum didnt know that.....
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
Darkstars wrote:your hurting performance with the high octane.
Most people don't understand how octane works.... the higher octane the harder it is to burn. 87 octane is alot more explosive so to speak, the only reason you would need higher octane is when your running boost of high compression or something, something that equates to higher cylinder pressures, when the pressures go up the fuel start to ignite ignite itself when its not supossed to.... the fix for that, higher octane, since its harder to burn it will resist setting itself off when it shouldn't.
Low octane is the more aggressive fuel, when you need low and your running high all your doing is emptying your pocket and hurting performance.
he speaks the truth. something like an LS1 (like i have) requires 93 octane to run. something your engine Cody doesnt. there is a guy i know that has a 75 Comet GT that he drags at the local track. he was putting in 93 octane. running low 13s. then he learned its not a high compression engine and started putting in 87. now he runs high 12s with the 87 in.
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
Oh ok good to know.......Thanks
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
yea both you and the jetta wouldn't have a chance on my red rocket... good ol' 98 cavy with rear wheel drive and a 327 chevy small block ruiing 578hp and slicks 400turbo tanny ....is jsut a smoking ....but on the other hand you both got my other 98 cavy witch is pretty much completely stock ..for now ... think9ing of eco swap or 3800turbo haven't yet decided...but seriously race on the track street racing is dangrosu and stupid you could get cought and fined big time and lost your car possibly
^
Right... nice "filled out " reg too.
But still do the math, sometimes spending the extra 15-20 cents pays off because it takes you farther, Case in Point, Brian's wife's old 02 LS sport, it would run fine with 87, but would run great with 93, at get better gas millage, so much more gas millage that he was saving money buy spending the extra dime on it.
Both my cars get it.
(93)
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
