I am moving my battery to the trunk, anything that I need to do to make sure that its approved. I got a battery box and tray, I am going to bolt them down to the car. Just would like to know before I go out there.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Get the rule book and check. I know NHRA has requirements for number of bolts and the size that hold the battery down. Plus the J part of the hold down rods has to be welded shut.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
box and bolted down should be sufficient. I believe that mod is also STX legal.
What class do you run in. I'm in DSP this year!
-Chris
If you run a gel cell type battery like an Optima, you are not required to place it in a box.
FAST2.4 P wrote:Humm, maybe I will have to change it out. What do optimas run price wise??
130ish.
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my carDomain updated 8/2/08 Boosted at B-day!
Can anyone give a little advice on doing a relocation. The tray isn't the hard part just some of the wiring. I figure to run a positive and negative wire to their original locations and I figure I need to have a battery cut off switch with it. So what gauge wire should I go with as well as what kind of switch should I use. I would really like to get some pointers on building this myself rather than buying a kit.
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
0 gauge positive wiring run right to the starter.
4 gauge ground wire run as short as you can. Just ground it out in the trunk. No need to run it all the way back up front.
As for the switch any of the readily available cut-offs are good. Just make sure you get one thats made for cars with alternators and wire it up properly.I got the wrong kind the first time and you could flip it and nothing would happen because it wasn't shutting down the charging circuit. Tracks will spot test your cut-off so just do it right the first time and save yourself a headache later LOL. It's only 2 more connections to do.
If you were closer to me I'd say bring the car here and I'd help you do it. Only takes about 2-3 hours if you wanna make it pretty and keep everything running in hidden areas. If you don't care about hiding the wires for a clean look it can be done in an hour.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
I have started to move my battery to the trunk as well. I have an Optima so I am using an aluminum battery holder from Speedway.
What I did was put a 3-1 distribution block under the hood. I have a 4ga from the starter to the dist block and 8 gauge from the fuse panel to the dist block., with 1/0 gauge out of the dist block to the trunk. My question is where is the best place for the fuse holder?? Should it be under the hood or closer to the battery. I have a 200amp ANL fuse, or would a circuit breaker be better??
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi
LD9 for Life
I'd use a circuit breaker so you don't have to invest in expensive fuses LOL. Put it where it's easy to access...that's the best place
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Hypsy I might take you up on some help in Nov or Dec If you don't mind I have to go to the Chicago area to pick up my exhaust it would be great to make the trip even more worthwhile.
The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig
Absolutely M-1. Just let me know ahead of time and we'll work something out. I might have shop access in the near future too so that would make it much easier.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
