Last friday i went to the track and came very close to running 13's, except i had a hard time getting the tires to hook. here was my best quarter time for the night and trap speed. horrible 60 foot.

R/T ... 0.203
60' ... 2.428
330 ... 6.292
1/8 ... 9.343
MPH ... 80.50
1000 ... 11.961
1/4 ... 14.170
MPH ... 101.26

this was on street tires, so maybe better tires and more tuning

good job man...you definitly need some tires...tho 60's are horible....get some DOT slicks or a good set of drag radials and you will be in the 13's no problem.

and in a 2200...im impressed

I'd figured you would be a lot faster with 24psi on at GT30.



Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!

Thanks,
definitely need tires no doubt.....

they are a lot of factors i have to work out like tuning, afr was between 10.9 and 11.0 at wot. probably weight reduction might help. so far the data logg showed little to no knock retard at all with advance to 16 degrees running on 93 pump gas.....not bad tho. i did expect better for 24psi, but hopefully with better tuning and tires i can put down 13's on the time slip after some minor upgrades. can't wait!

yeah, but you can only go as fast as your tires let you, if you cant hook up.....thats killing you.

Very respectable time for a 2200, even at 24psi.

a friend her in ontario has a boosted 2.2 with 12psi he ran 13.9

that is a very good time for 12psi. i had a friend of mines that ran 12.2 seconds at 15psi. i don't know how he did it, but it was just that fast. it was also a 2.2 ohv engine 5spd tranny.

i believe the reason why i am running high boost is because of the lower compression which is 8.1, with a 0.74 head gasket, plus being automatic takes a lot of boost to make good power and put it down to the wheels..... there could be other reasons why i don't make huge amount of power at lower boost levels. also still need to work out the tuning a bit.

also what john benham said is true, not being able to hook up is what killing me right now.

Damn, 14's and a gt30 at 24psi? Something just seems wrong man. I mean yeah i'm respecting you getting the 2200 auto into super low 14's but on 24psi with GT30 you would figure it would be nasty.

Hell on 6psi on a s/c my sunfire auto went 13.90 but the trans and motor was different obviously.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, November 19, 2008 12:06 PM

i must say, 24psi felt very fast on the street driving around, but when i got to the track it was a different story. in any case, am going to check out a few things and see whats going on. for boost levels that high, the engine should be making more power. but then again, lower compression could also be the cause of why the boost level is so high to make more power on top.

one thing for sure, the next time i head to the track, i wanna see 13s anything on the time slip and thats about it
i will see what happens next time and thats my goal.

Whoa, congrats man. That car really is a sleeper. I love boosted 4 doors. lol. They're so decievng (sp?)


Turbo 2003 White Cavalier LS

Stitch wrote:Whoa, congrats man. That car really is a sleeper. I love boosted 4 doors. lol. They're so decievng (sp?)

deceiving.

X2 on the congrats!

I may have missed a build thread somewhere, but what are you revving to? At what RPM are you making full boost? I would guess, even with all your work, that your not hitting 24psi until ~3500, and it probabaly makes power to about 8000rpm (typical on other four cylinder applications, and your reg says turbo cam and ported head). Is it maintaining full boost between shifts?

Granted you have 13's in the bag with traction, if your not taking full advantage of the turbo's efficiency range by not revving high enough (and shifting too early). If your on the stock redline, you may very well be on the way to 12's with a siginficantly higher redline

oldskool wrote:I may have missed a build thread somewhere, but what are you revving to? At what RPM are you making full boost? I would guess, even with all your work, that your not hitting 24psi until ~3500, and it probabaly makes power to about 8000rpm (typical on other four cylinder applications, and your reg says turbo cam and ported head). Is it maintaining full boost between shifts?

Granted you have 13's in the bag with traction, if your not taking full advantage of the turbo's efficiency range by not revving high enough (and shifting too early). If your on the stock redline, you may very well be on the way to 12's with a siginficantly higher redline

I would imagine he is making full power before 3500, bb turbo's spool up super fast.



Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!

so far the shift points on the tranny is still stock, except from 3rd to 4th. i modified the shift points closer to redline 5700rpms. turbo starts spooling close to 3000 rpm and full boost to 24psi by 4000rpm at WOT. am sure the power curve goes beyond 5700rpm, but i haven't pushed it that far as yet. as far as boost level, from 1st gear all through 4th overdrive the boost pressure is steady dead on 24psi. even durning the shift i can hear the explosion of combustion as it changes gear. i have a good feeling changing the shift points closer to redline will get me more in the power band am sure.

i also have a video of the car going down the track. i will see if i can post a link soon.

finally a video!
i was running next to a mustang GT 4.6. i have no i idea what happend. i thought those cars ran 13s stock

video is a bit blurry, but its a little something. hopefully get better vid next time

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/141-sec-10126-mph-14-mile_200494.htm?ref=14e94c64-7bdf-4c2f-8a97-9b59017172ab

JoeyDaBomb wrote:

I would imagine he is making full power before 3500, bb turbo's spool up super fast.

Yes, but the 3076r is a rather beastly turbo, and the 2200 does not move much air down low even with a turbo cam and ported head.

The Sleeper wrote:so far the shift points on the tranny is still stock, except from 3rd to 4th. i modified the shift points closer to redline 5700rpms. turbo starts spooling close to 3000 rpm and full boost to 24psi by 4000rpm at WOT. am sure the power curve goes beyond 5700rpm, but i haven't pushed it that far as yet. as far as boost level, from 1st gear all through 4th overdrive the boost pressure is steady dead on 24psi. even durning the shift i can hear the explosion of combustion as it changes gear. i have a good feeling changing the shift points closer to redline will get me more in the power band am sure.

i also have a video of the car going down the track. i will see if i can post a link soon.

I figured as much - when you get traction and start running it to at least 7-8k rpm, you'll be fighting for 12's... For the stock rev range of a 2200 a gt28rs is more suited; while some will say its too small, if your only rev to 6300rpm, it compliments perfectly.

I was looking through your profile and see that you have a well built 2200, but I didn't see anything about valve springs. Are you running stock valve springs? If you are running stock valve springs, you don't want to go much over the stock rev limiter. Going much over could cause some major problems. Valve float can destry all that hard work, I'd hate to see that happen.

i use to have a GT28RS at one time. it is definitely a quick spooler. boost would start around 2700rpm and full boost by 3500rpm. this is definitely a good turbo for the streets when you want a fast pull off. the only problem is that it lacks top end flow and eventually dies off. with the GT30r i have less low end power but more top end power. i like the GT30 more because i can drive around the streets without being in boost all the time. at the track i spin more tires with the GT28RS than i did with the GT30.
my exprience
GT28RS very good low end and midrange torque. anything over 100mph or 6000rpm and starts to die off.
GT3071r-WG ok low end, very good midrange torque and topend. keeps going so far....havent reach the limit yet.
GT3076r (haven't tried this one yet) will probably spool later with more lag, but very good topend.

the valves and springs for the cylinder head is all stock. thats why am being very careful not to over do it. i may just chance it to 5900 and set the limiter a bit higher, but thats about it until i can upgrade the valve and springs. not sure if it will be enough to get me into the 12s, but it won't hurt to try

maybe i might get away with 6300rpm for one run on the track, and run a faster time, but it could cost me the motor as well..

Ah I miss read you registry. So the 3071 has a smaller compressor right, but shares the turbine with the 3076?

I was just thinking that you're running a turbo that is efficient from ~4-8k on most 4cylinder applications, and you're only taking advantage of less than half of that range. I totally understand your concerns with the stock valvetrain, and respect your will in keeping the revs down.

Like I said, once you upgrade the valvetrain and get a good hook-up, you'll be creeping in on 12's

yep thats correct. the turbo is a combination of the GT2871r compressor side and the GT3071r on the turbine side. what i like about this turbo is that the compressor side is changeable.

later on i do wanna get some better valve and springs to take advantage of the upper rpms. probably then 12s could be right around the corner.....

These springs will fit the stock spring seats and retainers, but will require an additional 0.100" longer valves stems to get the proper installed height. (Stock height being 1.60", these require 1.70".) +1mm valves would help the flow. +2mm intake valve should fit the stock seats with machining, but the seats could be a bit narrow. Talk to your machinist, bring a spare head for them to look at if needed.

Comp Cams Part #26981 (Beehive™) Valve Springs
• Designed for hydraulic or solid flat tatappet camss well as hydraulic rollers
• .525 maximum lift
• 1.240” O.D. , .825" I.D. Bottom
• 1.065" O.D. , .650" I.D. Top
• 110 lbs @ 1.70" seat pressure
• 292 lbs @ 1.175" open pressure
• 1.115 Coil Bind Hiheight• 347 lbs/inch Spring Rate

You'll also need to make a spacer for the valve Cover. 1/8" metal stock (steel or aluminum) cut to shape of the VC rail on the head would be easiest to make. You'll also need longer VC screws. You can use RTV Silicone to seal the spacer or if it's aluminum and you want, TIG the spacer in place.

The pushrods will need to be 0.100" longer also, to maintain the proper valve train geometry. 0.080" wall chrome-molly 3/8" diameter would be good for a strong, stable valve train.

Make sure you have sufficient thread engagement on the rocker arm studs, with the higher mounting height of the rocker arm. A thick flat washer should shim it up to a sufficient height.

BTW, Picture:

The Part number for the set of eight is 26981-8. they are available from Summit Racing.

You say "turbo cam", but what are the actual specs? This with a combination of stock valvetrain could be a big factor...



P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

thanks mad jack for the useful information on the valve springs. i will definitely look into it.

here are the turbo cam specs.
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift INTAKE 195*, 456 EXHAUST 192*, 440

not to radical and idles like stock.

You've got the JBP Turbo cam, which is a fairly mild grind. Turbo motor typically peak higher than an equivalent duration N/A motor, but not alot. A shorter exhaust duration pulls the peak HP down a bit, but helps spool the turbo quicker. We could build a little more top end and spool a little quicker, but would sacrafice the smoother idle, almost causing a slight lope and sacraficing low end torque. Of course a slight loss of low end probably wouldn't hurt your launches. You would have to raise the rev limiter with a hotter cam, though it sounds like you need to as it is now.

Did they sen a cam card with it? I know it's just a regrind, but what I want to know is it a '96-'97 cam core or a '98+ 2200 core. I could tell with the intake center line and lobe separation angle. It is possible to grind +/- 1* from the lobe centers, as long as the lift isn't too great.

As a minimun, I'd do a spring upgrade, so you can take full advantage of what you have now, without worrying about destroying the motor.