Good day all, I have a 1997 Sunfire SE 2.2L. It is being converted to a circle track car, what I would like to accomplish is to have and ignition switch and a start button on the car as I will be running a straight steering column shaft. The original steering column has been removed from the car including the ignition switch. All the wire connectors are still in the car as per the factory setup. My issue is how to wire this so that it will work with a toggle switch for the ignition and start button to fire the car. I do realize that it gets more complicated due to the fact that this car has a passlock system on it. I also still have the cluster hooked up for the time being. Does anyone know a proper way to wire this up so that I can "A" disable the paslock feature on this car for good, "b" wire the ignition switch, "c" wire the start button? All your input and help is much appreciated!!!! If there is any further information you require regarding the car or setups please feel free to ask.
Thank you all in advance,
i rewired my car and moved the pcm to the pass floor board...for the push to start. its kinda a neat setup... since gm pass lock actualy rechecks the passlock data on the tumbler roll back and is looking for a gnd during start. the IGN wires are pretty straight forward... i would recomend you get yourself some diagrams ( i used Mitchell and all-data) ok...you will have to retain the stock cluster unless you buy hptuners ( which i suggest that you do... handy to have) on the right side of the cluster there will be the passlock sensor wiring connector ( should be 3 wires...) unpin the white power wire... solder a 2.2kohm resistor to the yellow signal wire...and more wire to the other side. now you will need a relay. put that wire form the resistor to 87a . run a wire from 85 to pin 30 and pin 30 to the gnd from the passlock connector... and ground all to the body... run a wire from the ignition ground during crank to 87. finaly run 86 to your manual push button start switch. i beleive the starter wire is purple and that too will also have to goto the starter switch...this is how i run my racecar and had others do aswell.. you will need to do a vtd relearn aswell.. to explain how it works... when you turn the pcm the passlock already shows 2.2kohm resistance, once you hit start it goes open then grounds the ground during crank wire. when you release it comes back to 2.2k and the gnd during crank is release.. very much like factory.. no lights never a missed heat perfect every time. then i realized that 6500 rpm wasn't enough and had to buy hptuners anyway. if you dont understand all that mess i can prolly find my diagrams or make some. but move the pcm... its in a terrible spot for a racecar and you can remove about 30lbs of wiring in a nights for of soldering.. any problems let me know. there was a guy looking for some trans help on holding 2nd gear. if you are still hear sorry i forgot about you pm me
cant figure out how to edit... thought we use to be able too. i run on a 1/3 high bank.. spec tire is a 195/65r15 or a 14... you will need to move that rev limiter. third is a little to steep and 2nd you need some rpms...i was running 7200 with alota float. that was on new factory springs. but increasing spring presure to much would risk lifter collapse.. seeing you other threads and that you can run a eco it would be the way to go. 6500 rpm wont catch a neon. they are geared better for our track anyway.
Corey thank you a ton, The PCM has been moved and all un-needed wiring has been removed from the car I have the PCM located under my new dash on the passenger side of the car. I figure I will leave the cluster is the car and hide it up under the dash for the time being. If you could find your diagrams they would be greatly appreciated. This is the last obstical that I have to complete on this car before it can hit the track. I haven't gone with the eco but if I can get my hands on one I will deff purchase it, in the meantime I will have to use this engine. Thanks again you have no clue how much relief we now have here in the shop knowing that it can all be done and a direction to take.
what color wires hook to the pushbutton and toggle switch? i have orange pink brown white purple/yellow its a manual and bypassed the clutch switch
Corey Carbone could you please send me the wiring diagrams you have firstname.lastname@example.org thanks
Sorry it took so long to get back. Not a very active person.
First problem was I lost all my diagrams. I am missing page 3 of the pcm diagrams but if I remember correct there was not any power or ground systems on it. I redrew my basic wiring as best as I could. Also alot of wires aren't labelled because I ran alot of new wiring. I will verify the wiring after I get to work and reprint it all. This was wired for a 97 Sunfire 2.2, it worked and was raced
Please refer to proper system diagrams, as your wiring may be slightly different.
Any questions feel free to Inbox
I have hp tuners and have been very successful with our 97 2.2 Sun fire.
I didn't think you could remove the cluster even if you disabled passlock.
if you disable it in the pcm you dont need the cluster..
the cluster communicates that it had a pass lock pass and then the pcm allows the ignition to continue.. by disabling in the pcm you are not expecting a communication from the cluster..
i woulda got rid of mine but i tried to use the factory tach and a lights
with the wiring listed above, you will need the cluster, and you don't need HP tunners
sorry if this doesn't all make perfect sense to everyone...
First there is no BCM on a 97.
the Passlock 2 module is contained in the cluster and after you disable Passlock 2 via HPT, the PCM does not expect the IPC to communicate that Passlock 2 Pass
you may be correct in saying disabling Passlock 2 in the PCM does nothing, As in the Passlock 2 check will fail and security light may be on. I have never tried it this way.
Second we are not using the factory ignition switch so just using a resisor will not work.
Passlock 2 actually checks the value twice, on ign on and again on roll back after crank to verify
I have just put a resistor in about a dozen cars. My prefered way is to use the relay method. Works identical to the way the passlock 2 papers explained it to
Yes, I know there is no BCM. I stated that pretty clearly.
On 2000+ VATS is stored in the BCM so disabling it in the PCM via HPT works.
on pre-2000 cars disabling it in the PCM does nothing as VATS is stored via the bulb check in the cluster. Period.
I've been working on these cars for 13 years and tuning them for 6 years. I know how VATS works and what cars do an don't have a BCM.
I was simply correcting your blatant misinformation that disabling it in the PCM on a 97 means you need no cluster. That is utterly false.
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...