Looks good, but how's the flicker on those HIDs? The Xentecs are known for it.
looking good
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Mr. Quick wrote:Looks good, but how's the flicker on those HIDs? The Xentecs are known for it.
are they? no problems yet... I've got a 2 year warranty on them if that does happen...
Joe Schulte wrote:Very nice!
The Jew wrote:looking good
Thanks guys!!
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I got that same kit for my new bravada.Mine flicker and one of the ballasts went bad after a week but they replaced it so its all good. But yeah looks good love the car and the pics.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3877823
Mattmac1989 wrote:I got that same kit for my new bravada.Mine flicker and one of the ballasts went bad after a week but they replaced it so its all good. But yeah looks good love the car and the pics.
yeah, the low beams started to do it... waiting on a return shipping label and they're going back. I'm thinking I'll just get a refund and go back to DDM...
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Mattmac1989 wrote:my friend had a set that did it but eventually stopped. i think its just burning stuff off the new bulbs but im not sure.
sending them back, they've gotten worse... ordered DDM ones tonight, I didn't realize their raptors were so cheap...
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Mattmac1989 wrote:my friend had a set that did it but eventually stopped. i think its just burning stuff off the new bulbs but im not sure.
The reason most of the cheap bulbs flicker is because they don't have enough of the salts in them, which is where the light comes from. The arc jumping around is where the flicker comes from. With the correct amount of salts in the capsule, the capsule fills with plasma, giving a smooth, even light. I learned this the hard way. I bought a Xentec kit, and it flickered. They sent me a new ballast, same thing. Sent me two new bulbs, one of them flickered and the other didn't. I finally bought some other bulbs and they are better, however I'm now converting to actual D2S projectors and Phillips bulbs.
The other problem with the lower amount of salts is that the bulbs burn hotter (just like an engine running lean), which shortens the life of the bulbs.
98z24ragtop wrote:Mattmac1989 wrote:my friend had a set that did it but eventually stopped. i think its just burning stuff off the new bulbs but im not sure.
sending them back, they've gotten worse... ordered DDM ones tonight, I didn't realize their raptors were so cheap...
my drivers side ballast actually went out last night i have the worst luck with hid's. I dont think ill be buyin another set again lol
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3877823
Awesome, I burnt out a ballast in my is300. So I ordered a new 4.3k kit for low beams and 3k for fog lights.
I have crap luck with them too, my first DDM kit had a bad ballast, but after that they worked amazingly. And the Cavy's foglights were Xentecs, but the big ballasts, and never ever flickered. My drivers side flickers like a bitch and the passenger fog has a slight flicker too, so yeah... I wanted DDMs to begin with, but I figured I'd give the Xentecs a shot since I had them and the ballasts were super small, but oh well...
Mr. Quick wrote:Mattmac1989 wrote:my friend had a set that did it but eventually stopped. i think its just burning stuff off the new bulbs but im not sure.
The reason most of the cheap bulbs flicker is because they don't have enough of the salts in them, which is where the light comes from. The arc jumping around is where the flicker comes from. With the correct amount of salts in the capsule, the capsule fills with plasma, giving a smooth, even light. I learned this the hard way. I bought a Xentec kit, and it flickered. They sent me a new ballast, same thing. Sent me two new bulbs, one of them flickered and the other didn't. I finally bought some other bulbs and they are better, however I'm now converting to actual D2S projectors and Phillips bulbs.
The other problem with the lower amount of salts is that the bulbs burn hotter (just like an engine running lean), which shortens the life of the bulbs.
well that makes sense! I wondered what was the cause was...
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:Awesome, I burnt out a ballast in my is300. So I ordered a new 4.3k kit for low beams and 3k for fog lights.
I debated on that color combo myself... I'm going with 6/3K combo with my DDMs
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4.3k is suppose to be true white and give the best visibility for longer. That's the reason I went with them. My is300 has yellow fogs as of now. So I wanted to keep a stock look plus yellow cuts through fog better and 3k is yellow.
Rabbit(AKA RedAssassin) wrote:4.3k is suppose to be true white and give the best visibility for longer. That's the reason I went with them. My is300 has yellow fogs as of now. So I wanted to keep a stock look plus yellow cuts through fog better and 3k is yellow.
I had 3000K fogs in the Cavy and they were the best, so I can't wait to put them back in the Lexus. And I would've done 4300K lows, but I replaced the silly little lights next to the low beams with LEDs (can be seen in some of the pics), and they look blue, so the 6000K matches those and makes the LEDs look less out of place, haha.
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Very clean! They would look alot nicer without that front plate
My System
Deck: Alpine IVA-D900 in-dash dvd
Amp #1: Xtant 604x
Amp #2: Xtant 1001dx
Front Speakers: Alpine Type-X SPX-177A 6-1/2" Component 2-Way
Rear Speakers: Alpine Type-R Coaxial 6" x 9" 2-Way Speaker
Subs: (2) Alpine Type-R SWR-1241 12"
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:isnt salt cheap?
haha, I wouldn't have any idea how to fix them to be honest, and DDMs are on their way along with a return label/refund fot these HIDs
xKnowOnEx wrote:Very clean! They would look alot nicer without that front plate
I agree 100% but the holes bug me, so until I decide to get some body work done (the hood has some hail dents) the plate will stay :/ I'm also going to try to make a mustache license plate just for laughs and make the plate bracket smaller... If I find a Shine Auto front for a good price I'll snap that up instead...
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-Z Yaaaa- wrote:isnt salt cheap?
LOL. Yeah, but the "salts" in HID bulbs aren't just calcium chloride. They're a mix of various compounds. Also, it's not just the material that makes the bulb cheap, but the manufacturing process in making sure the right amount is getting in there, and the quality control. This is also why a lot of the cheaper bulbs have color mis-match problems. I've actually had two 6000K bulbs by the same manufacturer, and one had a slightly greenish-blue hue, and the other had a slightly bluish-purple hue. Cheap, 90% of the time, means sh!t QC.
Update: DDM HIDs. Should have gotten these to begin with... 35 watt 6/3000K combo.
Also got the windows tinted, just 32% all around, the GA legal limit.
Proper pics once the rain stops and I actually wash her again.
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Glad you got something good in there.
FYI, for anyone looking at HIDs, Morimoto started making halogen replacements in 3000K, 4300K, 5000K, and 6000K. They have a very good quality product that is still reasonably priced. Their bulbs are high quality, and their halogen replacements still use a ceramic base with precise arc chamber location.
the ddm bulbs look way better!
ʇı ɹǝʍo7 | ǝcoMonstǝrs
Soooo clean! Beautiful car
Much better, I like the fogs
