B16 trans for $1,000... WTF?! I've got a $10 bill I'll sell you for $1,000. :-)
Check this crap out:
http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30001
Almost complete B16A swap for that car for $1,200 plus shipping. The only thing you'll need on top of that is mounts ($300 for Hasport, you can find them for WAY less on eBay) and wiring for a DPFI to MPFI conversion (www.rywire.com).
No matter what motor you swap into that DX you'll HAVE to do a DPFI to MPFI conversion. Right now your fuel injection system is set up for two fuel injectors and you'll have to wire it for 4. There are also some sensors that aren't present on the DPFI motors (some are inide the distributor - crank pos sensor, etc.). rywire.com makes kits to make this MUCH easier than doing it yourself (manually running wires to the ECU) so that's the route I suggest.
B and D Swap Tips:
* If you go with a B series engine don't get an LS trans if speed is important to you, they suck for anything but good gas mileage.
* A B16 swap in your car won't really be that fast because they've got so little torque. A B18A (non VTEC, Integra LS) swap is cheaper and for accelleration will feel a lot faster and be more fun. If you're going to build the motor at all, a B16 has WAY more aftermarket. Stock for stock I'd much rather have an LS swap with the increased torque at the expense of a few horsepower.
* Someone suggested a 16V head on your 8V motor - this won't work because your pistons don't have valve reliefs in them for 16 valves. Sorry. If you want to do that you'd have to swap pistons too - in which case you're better off just buying a whole 16V swap - it'll cost a lot less.
* If you go D series and SOHC VTEC swap, aside from the fact that you HAVE to wire DPFI to MPFI, you should convert from OBD0 to OBD1 and run a P28 OBD1 SOHC VTEC ECU. If you don't and do a ghetto swap where you activate VTEC with an RPM switch (don't laugh a lot of people do it) you'll see almost no gains from having VTEC. Along with just activating the VTEC solenoid, a real VTEC ECU also drastically changes the fuel maps and the ignition maps when VTEC is engaged. If you run a manual switch the ECU won't change anything and the whole setup will be pretty much worthless.
* If you get a D series swap you'll have to run a D series cable trans. You'll want a 90-91 Civic SI or CRX SI cable trans. They can be had for fairly cheap ($100 or so) if you look around. Notice I said 90-91... 88 transmissions are different - the clutch and flywheel they are designed to be used with is smaller and the output shaft on them has a different amount of teeth than ALL the rest of the D series stuff. Stay away from them. 89 is made for a smaller clutch/flywheel too even though the number of teeth are the same as the rest of the D series stuff. These will work ok, but I usually don't mess with them anyway... they're like the bastard D series cable trans. If you order a new clutch and flywheel (recommended) you'll want them from a 90+ Civic or CRX. Exedy is best, and make sure your kit comes with a new thrust bearing and flywheel bearing.
* If you get a D series swap the motor won't go in the car unless you swap the 88-91 Civic/CRX motor mount on to the timing belt side of the motor onto the new motor. The 88-91 mount is different from the 92+ D series mounts. This mount is bolted into the side of your block with two 17mm bolts and you have to take the timing belt cover off to get to them - CHANGING YOUR TIMING BELT WHILE YOU HAVE THE COVER OFF! $35 from Honda!
* For D series all mounts but the one above work stock for stock. For B series you'll have to buy special mounts.
* On any new swap, put in a new thermostat and swap out the timing belt and water pump for new ones while you have the motor out of the car. ALWAYS.
Turbo D series info...
* If you go D series turbo don't get an "XS Power" or "SS Auto Chrome" eBay kit because they're ghetto - the turbo WILL break and leak and the manifold WILL crack (sooner than later).
* If you go D series turbo, DO do an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion (harness at rywire.com) and go with a P28 OBDI VTEC ECU... and chip the ECU (moates.net has a kit for $12). DO NOT use a check valve (also called a "missing link") and a FMU. This is GHETTO, will kill your injectors, and will fail. Chipping an ECU is actually cheaper and is the "right" way to do it... you'll also getting the benefit of being able to tune your car and change some of your ECU parameters.
* DO NOT tune with Hondata - it's too expensive for what it's worth.
* DO NOT tune with Uberdata - although free, it's a ghetto ass program that's poorly written, crashes a lot, and I've known a lot of people to have problems with it's ROM burnin capabilities - and bad ROM burns can lead to burning up your ECU, your engine, or both.
* DO tune with Crome (www.tunewithcrome.com). It's easier to use than the other two, a much better program, and it's FREE. There is a $150 pay version available if you want to do real-time data logging through the ECU. Simple tuning and ROM burnin functionality is free. For a basline street tune the free version is all you'll need. Baseline maps can be downloaded free from www.PGMFI.org
* Anything you want to know about chipping Honda ECUs and tuning them for boost is here: www.PGMFI.org
* You can get chips, ROM burners, and ECU chipping kits here: www.moates.net
* You can go much faster with a lot less money by putting together a turbo kit and boosting a D series motor. My D of choice is the JDM D15B - which is essentially the 1.6L SOHC VTEC motor that we got (128hp) but only 1.5L and makes more power (130hp). These motors RULE for boost and you can boost 10psi through them STOCK with NO problems.
My brother is currently boosting 9-10psi through an all stock D15B with just an intake and cat-back and his car is awesome. We street tuned it with Crome and an AF gauge and the car is now set up pretty much as good as it could get without being dyno tuned.
You can score a MINT D15B swap from Hmotorsonline.com for $435 plus shipping (usually about $180 depending on whre you live).
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30019
Don't bother getting the optional $150 hydro transmission with the D15B because your car is set up for a cable trans. You can ask the guys at Hmotors if they have any 90-91 D series cable trans. You can convert your car from cable trans to hydro trans in order to use the newer D15B hydro trans (or other D series hydro trans) but it's not really worth the cost, it'll add weight, and you'll have to run a bunch of hydraulic lines. It's much easier and cheaper to use a cable D series trans.
When buying parts for the D15B (since we don't have them here in the states) - you'll want to use a timing belt and water pump off a 92-95 Civic VX. You'll want a water pump from a 92-95 Civic EX or SI. You'll want plugs/wires from a 92-95 Civic SI or EX. Thermostats are the same for all D series.
Any other head parts (cam/gear, etc.) are from a 1.6L D16Z6 (92-95 Civic SI/EX) and any block parts are from a 1.5L D15Z1 92-95 Civic VX.
Hope that info helps. :-) Good luck.
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