Well I hope to be off work friday to go work on it.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Any updates....sucsk to see a good J down.
Was fuel pressure ever checked, I understand the fuel pump is heard.
46 PSI or was it 56 PSI....it is one of those....lol
No updates. I hope to go crazy this weekend. Now that work has quieted back down.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
ok dude or dudette I had the SAME EXACT problem in my 95 2.3L this car has cursed me for years and I can't stant but to hate to love it and love to hate it, here is the HUGE and probably MOST OVERLOOKED problem with these jbodies and their quad setups(yes worse than the headgasket problem the stockers retain).....DOES THE FUEL PUMP TURN ON AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURN ON WHEN YOU TURN ON THE KEY? if not the power wire in the main harness near the computer is junk, or the fuseblock has a fuse not making good contact-specifically the 20amp in the top corner towards the front of the car, I do appologize if any info has already been given to you as I an NOT about to read the 5-6 pages of thread, hell maybe im wrong and its already running, I do hope this helps you if not though, o i don't know if you have tried it yet but directly hook up your injectors to the battery with test leads and listen for the 'click' signaling they are oopening, and you can do the same at the fuel pump realy-very useful in troubleshooting-and you can alway turn your rail w/injectors in it upside down, and lay down a piece of cardboard with hole cut to fit over injectors, place down a towel and try to start car, you can see if they fire, and you can rig it up so you can get individual readings(amounts dispersed) off the injectors. where are you from?
So I have been working on my cavalier a lot lately.
I'll update this when I get more time. My car still will not start....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Dang man. This is so weird.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
It's simple actually,
THE @!#$ THING IS POSSESSED BY THE DEVIL!!!!!!
Want hub spacers? Shoot me a PM.
Club Teh Jeffie wrote:It's simple actually,
THE @!#$ THING IS POSSESSED BY THE DEVIL!!!!!!
THIS
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
I have two z24s as many of you know.
I have swapped from the teal Z to the red Z so far, and all the following work great on the Red Z...after the theft relearn. I swapped some over and back just for "fun".
Gauge Cluster
Ignition Switch
Ignition Cylinder
PCM
Injectors, fuel rail, and FPR.
Both cavs build more than 60PSI of fuel pressure if you turn the key on and off a few times, and both hold 45ish psi while cracking
Entire spark side. ICM, coils, IDI housing, spark plugs, and boots.
MAP sensor, TPS sensor, IAT sensor
The tunes are EXACTLY the same in every table using HPTuners.
The teal cav will do the theft relearn if I swao parts over from the red cavalier.
CrankPS
CamPS
I checked the timing a long time ago, and it was correct on the Teal Cav
I did a compression test, and everything was fine, but cylinder three was down in the 160ish psi range, but has been that way for a while now.
EVERYTHING I swap over from the teal z to the red z makes the red z run better / smoother...
I swapped one part over at a time, and tested drove the red Z. Then swapped back, and installed the next part. The injectors are not firing at all on the teal Z, and the theft light is solid after it does the relearn. Every once in a while the tach will move to 8,000 RPMS and stay there......
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Faulty ignition, or key is fooked up? Long shot.
CrAzY Z24 wrote:Faulty ignition, or key is fooked up? Long shot.
i already swap ignition cylinders...
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Maybe its the engine harness
Looked like you found the problem on Feb 22, 2010 at 3:55pm. No voltage on the grey wire to the injectors during crank and run.
Just repeating from last year:
Need to see close to battery voltage on that grey wire - that is what powers the injectors. The ECM drivers simply supply the ground. Now that grey wire is spliced into the same CKT (#120) that supplies voltage to the fuel pump - from the fuel pump relay (underhood). Check these areas.
No voltage here - don't expect it to run.
Not sure what all that part swapping was for.
Mike
Thanks. It has been a LONG time since I actually had time to work on it.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
k dumb question, how bad can it be to attach a spare battery to the grey wire..... since you NEED power to it just to make sure it starts.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:k dumb question, how bad can it be to attach a spare battery to the grey wire..... since you NEED power to it just to make sure it starts.
Not sure it has been a LONG time since I messed with it. I only started working on it heavily the last few weeks.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:k dumb question, how bad can it be to attach a spare battery to the grey wire..... since you NEED power to it just to make sure it starts.
Not sure it has been a LONG time since I messed with it. I only started working on it heavily the last few weeks.
you know what i mean though? since that wire needs 12v of power, just to test it, couldnt you hook a battery to that gray wire? just for simple testing purposes? you get 12v and it fires, narrows the problem down, if not, it was worth a shot.
BUMP, I want to see this thing run!
Careful with just applying voltage to wires Vince. The common gray wire on the injectors is a pcm grounded wire. apply 12v to it and poof youll make the smoke come out of that black box.
Wrench Monkey wrote:Careful with just applying voltage to wires Vince. The common gray wire on the injectors is a pcm grounded wire. apply 12v to it and poof youll make the smoke come out of that black box.
X2 2. Listen ot this man.
FU Tuning
Wrench Monkey wrote:Careful with just applying voltage to wires Vince. The common gray wire on the injectors is a pcm grounded wire. apply 12v to it and poof youll make the smoke come out of that black box.
wasnt sure since they said it needed 12v of power
Milliamps are applied to the injectors as thats all the computer can support... grounding out the pcm at the injector wires is more then enough to fry the computer.