Help get me driving again... - Page 3 - Tuning Forum

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Re: Help get me driving again...
Wednesday, March 23, 2011 9:46 AM
I can not find it either....I know it use to be in the faq....




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Re: Help get me driving again...
Wednesday, March 23, 2011 9:50 AM
Found it

http://www.j-body.org/faq//98/










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Wednesday, March 23, 2011 10:41 AM
@!#$ it! Im done, 4 relearns and the car still cut off!










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Wednesday, March 23, 2011 11:41 AM
Damn that sucks. Wish I knew how to lead you in the right direction.



Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 5:30 AM
Just throwing this out there.

Could the car not timed correctly cause it to start and die?

I remember years ago I mistimed the engine, but it would start and I could drive it, but until the rpms got under 1000 then it would die. Then the second time I mistimed it the car had an irratic idle.

This time the car has none of that, it starts for 3-4 seconds then dies.

Timing issue? Im 99% sure it is correct because I remembered past issues I had with timing. Dowel pins were able to go in the holes after two rotations by hand. I guess its worth taking off the cover to take a look. Ughh










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 6:40 AM
I think it is theft lock. I'm not going to pay attention to what the FAQ says, but my experience. Start it let it die and leave key on for 20-25 minutes.



FU Tuning



Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:13 AM
Ok ill try that.

I am still baffeld as to why this theft lock may be the issue. My car has been scanned many times with HPT, this is the first issue of the theftlock to arise. But this is the first time I got the U1000 Code for some reason as well. Not sure what causes it.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:14 AM
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:I think it is theft lock. I'm not going to pay attention to what the FAQ says, but my experience. Start it let it die and leave key on for 20-25 minutes.
X2.....





P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:32 AM
QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:I think it is theft lock. I'm not going to pay attention to what the FAQ says, but my experience. Start it let it die and leave key on for 20-25 minutes.
X2.....


x3 FTW !!




Jason
99 Z24

LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 8:08 AM
Ok, will do. Thanks guys.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 3:31 PM
Let me also say I worked on a 97 or 98 LN2 cavy with a motor swap to a newer motor. It got that code as well. ended up finding a wire in the block connection at the firewall that had came undone from the connector. Just glancing it looked fine, once we pulled on all wires seperately it came out. Fixed that and she was good.



FU Tuning




Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 6:30 PM
John do you know what exactly the wire was? I know I have an ld9 but my engine had a major overhaul this past year, maybe I unhooked something and forgot to put it back.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:17 PM
WHITECAVY wrote:John do you know what exactly the wire was? I know I have an ld9 but my engine had a major overhaul this past year, maybe I unhooked something and forgot to put it back.


It was a communication wire, I want to say brown.



FU Tuning



Re: Help get me driving again...
Thursday, March 24, 2011 7:19 PM
Ok, ill check that after the long relearn you suggested.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 11:50 AM
Well the 25 minute relearn didnt work either.

I don't get it, the only things I changed after the last time it ran in 09 was the following:

Intake manifold
Booster pump
Injectors
HO cams
-8 feed line
Removed Evap Completely

Could a vaccum line being pinched cause it to start then stop?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 12:03 PM
This might help David!!!




CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Modules connected to the class 2 serial data circuit monitor for serial data communications during normal vehicle operation. Operating information and commands are exchanged among the modules. When a module receives a message for a critical operating parameter, the module records the ID number of the module which sent the message for State of Health monitoring (Node Alive messages). A critical operating parameter is one which, when not received, requires that the module use a default value for that parameter. When a module does not associate an ID number with at least one critical parameter within about five seconds of beginning serial data communication, DTC U1OOO is set. When more than one critical parameter does not have an ID number associated with it, the DTC will only be reported once.


DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
When a malfunction (such as a blown fuse to a module) occurs while modules are communicating, a Loss of XXX Communication DTC is set as current. When the modules stop communicating (ignition is turned off) the current Loss of XXX Communication DTC is cleared but the history DTC remains. When the modules begin to communicate again, the module with the blown fuse will not be learned by the other modules so U1OOO is set current by the other modules. If the malfunction occurs when the modules are not communicating, only U1000 is set.


TEST DESCRIPTION
The number(s) below refer to the step number(s) on the diagnostic table.

A Loss of XXX Communication DTC with a history status may indicate the cause of U1000.
The module(s) which is not communicating is the likely cause of U1000.

The module which was not communicating due to a poor connection to the class 2 serial data circuit may have set Loss of XXX Communication DTCs for those modules that it was monitoring.

The modules which can communicate indicate the module which can not communicate. You must clear the DTC from these modules to avoid further misdiagnosis.

If all modules are communicating, the module which set U1OOO may have done so due to some other condition.









Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 12:08 PM
Unfortunately the diagram will be impossible for me to take a image of but check all your grounds ESPECIALLY the one on the front of the block by the trans. A bad ground to one of the modules could cause a class 2 error.



Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 12:22 PM
Thanks Tom, I am about to go out and check grounds now. Question, what are the 'modules' that you mention? And It says blown fuses, what fuses, just any fuses in the engine bay im using?

All grounds in the engine bay are solid and good. My buddy is about to come over to scan the car, then clear the codes. Maybe that will do it once the codes are cleared.

Im getting the U1000 code, EVAP code, and the camshaft positioning sensor code.

Hope this works.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, April 03, 2011 12:38 PM








~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 1:12 PM
So, we cleared out the camshaft positioning code and started the car, car ran for about 10 seconds this time, but was chugging like it wanted to stay started, then died.

This P0463 FUEL LEVEL SENSOR code, fluid level high voltage. What is that about, would that make the car cut off?











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 2:00 PM
So, i have the racetronix fuel pump harness. I have the booster pump tapped into the grey wire in that harness. Chuck has the Hahn kit with the booster pump and he tapped into the grey wire in the OEM harness. Should I have tapped into the oem harness back by the tank?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:23 PM
WHITECAVY wrote:So, i have the racetronix fuel pump harness. I have the booster pump tapped into the grey wire in that harness. Chuck has the Hahn kit with the booster pump and he tapped into the grey wire in the OEM harness. Should I have tapped into the oem harness back by the tank?


I thought that the harness had the provisions already in the harness to add a booster pump? like a connector half way? as far as tapped into the OEM harness, all i did was plug and play. connection to connection and done.




Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:28 PM
Hmmm... i was thinking, i would try unplugging one sensor at a time and see if it gets better gets worse or stays the same and see if its a sensor issue.



Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:47 PM
Well fellas, all this time playing with it, we started upping the injector constant and the car idles and stays idleing for a while compared to previous. We are done for the day, but we are going to keep playing with the constant and see if I can get an idle where it doesnt lean out. My idle trim is at 1350, my constant is at 0.12000. I think going up some more will help it.

I also unpluged my camshaft sensor

Thanks everybody again for the help. Ill keep ya updated.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 5:02 PM
Yea man like I was sayin' it's just a bandaid till you get it tuned right lol. But glad we could get it to stay running now we just gotta play with the idle



2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |


Re: Help get me driving again...
Sunday, April 03, 2011 5:45 PM
I was going to ask what is the wideband saying?



FU Tuning



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