i was just wondering if the tmap sensor is only for the reflash or if it can be used to tune with hpt? im pretty sure ill be in the 18-22 psi range and im really not sure what the tmap will acctually do... if im correct the tmap with the supercharger reflas allows u to fake a 2.5 bar! but stock is only one bar but doesnt actually read pressure just changes over atmospheric pressure so in theory its sorta worthless correct?

Yes it will allow you to fake a 2.5 bar tune. But it really only fits in the supercharger manifold. With that much boost I'm going to assume you're turbo, you can buy a 3 bar map sensor that fits in the stock hole and uses the stock plug. Unfortunatly I my normal source for OEM sensor doesnt have it, they do have the 2 bar sensor, but that only reads up to 15 psi, it looks like this though, Your text to link here...


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Any "x bar" fake tune on the ecotec OS will not read boost for fueling with respect to the VE tables. A sort of global offset could be applied through the IPW vs VAC tables - think of it kind of like an FMU - more fuel across the board in boost. You will be able to tune spark advance in boost up to ~22 psig.

The tmap with the gm reflash is not really a fake. The reflash allows the ecu to read boost. (Yes Leafy it is still a hack/fake), but less so using a tmap on a stock alpha n.

I do not recommend using any 2+ bar maps on a AlphaN ecu. The little gain it might give it killed by the resolution lost.



FU Tuning

Actually according to Vince at trifecta tuning, the VE tables in the eco gm reflash are still alpha-n/TPS based. He said that there may be more at play in the back ground, but even the reflash is esentially a fake as far as VE tuning.

oldskool wrote:Actually according to Vince at trifecta tuning, the VE tables in the eco gm reflash are still alpha-n/TPS based. He said that there may be more at play in the back ground, but even the reflash is esentially a fake as far as VE tuning.

Well even the LD9 reflash is a bit of a fake, but the ECU still reads boost. Gm reflahs compared to a 2+ bar map on a true Alpha N ECU, the second is a real fake/crappy fake



FU Tuning

[quote=Screaming for Merc
y!!]The tmap with the gm reflash is not really a fake. The reflash allows the ecu to read boost. (Yes Leafy it is still a hack/fake), but less so using a tmap on a stock alpha n.

I do not recommend using any 2+ bar maps on a AlphaN ecu. The little gain it might give it killed by the resolution lost.
I disagree. The resolution I have in boost is critical, and what I have out of boost its more than sufficient


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yes im turbo... i just wanna figure out what the i really need to have this tune right.. my a/f on the dyno looked like a rollercoaster from hell..... so i bought 60# injectors and were just gonna see what we can get out of it... i plan to stop at around 250 ish hp so im guessing my tiny lil turbo will be at about its max....all i really have so far is a completely stock engine besides lsj injectors which we be replaced by the deka 60's and a turbo.....i was just running wastegate pressure so it maxed at about 9 psi on a good day in 4th gear... the tune was def holding back the power it made 200 on the dyno at 6 psi leaking boost from the fmic....a/f dropping belo 10 on the graph after 3000 rpm... so i just need to know some solutions to make the most out of my dyno time.... no one around me really has the answers i need...

ok so i was looking at sensors and from what ive found out even if i just add a 3 bar which is what i would need its still not going to be ab le to tune for fuel correctly.... so the best option would be to get a rising fpr and use that with the stock map sensor correct? even if i add the 3 bar im still running between 0 and 5 volts wich would be the same as running the stock map sensor and just dumping fuel....maybee im confused but thats what i got from zoom at zzp

If you cant get the fueling dialed in with the stock computer You'll need to either put in a standalone like the AEM EMS4 or Haltech S2000 (best) or swap in the LD9 harness and pcm and run the LD9 SC reflash (better), or just get better at tuning the stock computer since yo should be able to tune that turbo on the stock computer (good enough).


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john zappernick wrote:ok so i was looking at sensors and from what ive found out even if i just add a 3 bar which is what i would need its still not going to be ab le to tune for fuel correctly.... so the best option would be to get a rising fpr and use that with the stock map sensor correct? even if i add the 3 bar im still running between 0 and 5 volts wich would be the same as running the stock map sensor and just dumping fuel....maybee im confused but thats what i got from zoom at zzp

I think you are confused a little. does not mastter if it is a 1, 2, 3 bar map sensor, they are all 0-5 volt sensors. Problem is the ECU in stock form has preset values for those 0-5 volts. Just adding the 2 bar map will not make the ECU read boost. Also regardless the fueling tables are TPS x RPM

You can use a FMU, or a 1:1 APR so it increases fuel pressure with boost, and then fine tune the fueling. It will never be prefect, but you should be able to get a steady AFR.

Quote:

I disagree. The resolution I have in boost is critical, and what I have out of boost its more than sufficient

Thats fine you can, but I disagree with you.



FU Tuning

well im not tuning it myself... its getting dyno tuned for free and i just dont wanna send it in there and have them waste time with it and tell me i need this and that.... is it possible to tube it without adding anything? like can they just adjust the amout of fuel without faking a map or adding an fpr? i mean im at 200 hp now so 50 more isnt shooting for the moon.... im guessing its gonna take between 15 and 20ish psi to get m e to my hp goal... my lsj injectors were already maxing duty cycle so im gonna run the 60's which should take care of any fuel problems..... i really doubt that the saab setup would be worth any higher hp than what im shooting for anyways... the only great thing was i had a great hp and tourqe curve it stayed really steady to 6000 rpms

john zappernick wrote:well im not tuning it myself... its getting dyno tuned for free and i just dont wanna send it in there and have them waste time with it and tell me i need this and that.... is it possible to tube it without adding anything? like can they just adjust the amout of fuel without faking a map or adding an fpr? i mean im at 200 hp now so 50 more isnt shooting for the moon.... im guessing its gonna take between 15 and 20ish psi to get m e to my hp goal... my lsj injectors were already maxing duty cycle so im gonna run the 60's which should take care of any fuel problems..... i really doubt that the saab setup would be worth any higher hp than what im shooting for anyways... the only great thing was i had a great hp and tourqe curve it stayed really steady to 6000 rpms

Adding this or that should really be decided by how and who is tuning it. No reason to add something if it is going to make it harder for your tuner.

As for your question, that is better suited for your tuner.



FU Tuning

I agree with everything John said in here.... And Leafy, Unless its a TRACK ONLY car that is only used in boost ONLY conditions, driveabilty trumps all...





P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

I guess I'm in boost more than vac. And I like having 3-4 spark columns in boost end I use all of then and going across them my advance changes like 12 degrees at times.


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Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:I guess I'm in boost more than vac. And I like having 3-4 spark columns in boost end I use all of then and going across them my advance changes like 12 degrees at times.

What????

I gotta see a screenshot of this.... Lets see the 3D mapping...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, August 06, 2011 7:08 AM


P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

Stock exhaust with a small ring, my combustion temps skyrocket at higher loads, and now that the cat is clogging up its even worse.


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Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Stock exhaust with a small ring, my combustion temps skyrocket at higher loads, and now that the cat is clogging up its even worse.

And this has to do with?????





P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:

Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Stock exhaust with a small ring, my combustion temps skyrocket at higher loads, and now that the cat is clogging up its even worse.

And this has to do with?????

Higher combustion temps and more reversion makes me need to run less timing at higher and higher airflows to avoid knock. But I'm sure once I get the exhaust done I'll have a much smoother setup. Let me get some screens. Ok I exaggerated I guess. I havent touched spark in a while and forgot. 5 degrees.






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Thats pretty low timing.... That thing has to feel weak.... Why not just open up the exhaust? Being a cheap @ss now is only going to cost you more in the long run.....



P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

The LSJ pacesetter, 3" Cat, and 3" hooker max flow muffler are 5 feet away from me. I'm waiting on my 3"x26" chambered powerstick resonator, which is being hand made as we speak. The exhaust shop is backed up 2 weeks.


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Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

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