WHITECAVY wrote:Mike don't you have the racetronix pump in? Have you tried putting a stock pump back in to see what happens? I mean yea its a long shot, and I still wonder why Racetronix say the Racetronix pump is for plastic tanks only.

No reason to do this. He can hear the pump kicking on, but the injectors are not firing.



FU Tuning

Too Whiney wrote:

Quote:

.......
Taking a picture of the ECU is not going to help much. They are the same on the outside but different on the inside. People have run a 00+ program, or ECU on a 99 but you lose gauge functions.

Taking a picture of the PN on the ECU would have helped. The service # we would look for would be 16228016 for the 97-99. I'm not debating you can run the 2000 program in the 97-99 ECU...

I am just methodically trying to define the problem first... The OP was not clear that a PCM swap had occured, and I did not understand how he set a P1630 on a 1999 PCM. I don't believe I ever set a P1630 with "VATS DISABLED" on a 2000 J, with or without a BCM present. Has anyone else?
Is this a brand new PCM from a dealer?

Mike

The OP problems started when his fuel pump died, or he thought it had last year. Swapped fuel pumps and car would still not start. Fuel pump would kick on but no start. He has been switching parts since then.

I'm starting to think as QWK that he has a bad cluster, or bad ground on the cluster.



FU Tuning

My old pump died. It wouldn't even turn on with power applied directly to it. The racetronix turns on fine. I can even tell it to stay on in HPTuners fine. I'll get a picture of my pcm as soon as I can. I'll try to get a video of it trying to start. I'll try to get a screen capture of everything if I remember. There is almost nothing that i have not replaced with new parts.....spark and fuel side.

My car has had the same computer in it since new.......and 122,000 miles also.

the new pcm was from a 99z24 lordstown car....just like mine.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Thats right, I forgot he mentioned the pump kicks on. Hmmm











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

-MD- Enforcer wrote:My old pump died. It wouldn't even turn on with power applied directly to it. The racetronix turns on fine. I can even tell it to stay on in HPTuners fine. I'll get a picture of my pcm as soon as I can. I'll try to get a video of it trying to start. I'll try to get a screen capture of everything if I remember. There is almost nothing that i have not replaced with new parts.....spark and fuel side.

My car has had the same computer in it since new.......and 122,000 miles also.

the new pcm was from a 99z24 lordstown car....just like mine.

Thats all good and great, BUT, did you do the EXACT steps in my post above?





P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq

to a T! The strange thing is the theft light never flashes at all. I have done the relearn like the 96-99 and 00 onward procedures. Many many times to the T. I doted the iiii and crosses my tttt MANY times.

Thanks everyone for the help.







Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, January 30, 2010 7:05 AM

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

My "stock" tune vs another 99 "stock" tune.
I only found one difference.....
See attached file. Mine is on the right....Kinda weird
EVERY other table is 100% the same. Every setting everything. I check line by line on EVERY table and setting.






Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Monday, February 01, 2010 3:28 PM

Attachments

left99zrightmy99z.jpg (426k)

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

So have you turned off those codes yet?



FU Tuning

yes, just haven't been able to get to the car to reflash it.






Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:54 AM

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

*crosses fingers*










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Have you checked your Crank/Cam position sensors?





"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"

john317(AKA Gary the Old guy) wrote:Have you checked your Crank/Cam position sensors?

Replaced both....
My tach went to 8,000 and stayed there until I replace my Crank Position Sensor.....




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

-MD- Enforcer wrote:HPTuners can not see any cranking RPM......I retraced the CPS wires to and from the PCM, and well yeah......they look and measure fine with an ohm meter. FML.

-MD- Enforcer wrote:I was checking the crank position sensor wiring....again.
I'll check the grey wire sometime later in the week when I get time to work on the cav again.

Again confused... The crank position sensor is wired to the Ignition Control Module, not the PCM. There are no connections between the crank sensor and the PCM.

ICM "A" PPL to crank sensor "B" (or "A" for 2.2L coil conversion)
ICM "E" YEL to crank sensor "A" (or "B" for 2.2L coil conversion)

Also verify they are not swapped, since there is no easy way to test for this except to monitor the VR signal and note the polarity when the encoded tooth is seen. Service manual fault trees exclude this fault possibility.

What were the results of checking the grey wire voltage?

Were you able to run it on a shot of gas or ether (ZYAAA tribute)?

Still haven't been to the cav again. This weekend maybe.
I re-check everything then.

Above I meant ICM not PCM. The grey wire had voltage, but do not remember how much.....I'll check this weekend.

I have not tried the ether yet.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

dear god does this thing run yet?

Nope!

Worst comes to worst, we can just have a caravan from the bash to my moms. ahahahahhaa

If it doesn't start buy then.





PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Any update yet Mike?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Injector.....where art thou?
Injectors do not / will not do anything no matter what I do to them.

I'm about 99% positive my VATS is happy, but my injectors have absolutely no signal being sent to them at all. The cav will fire temporally with starting fluid.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

What were the results of checking the grey wire voltage on the injectors? (key on with engine off and also cranking?)

Mike

No voltage, but the wires to and from are good. Ohm wise they are fine, which is starting to drive me crazy.
I rather have a bad one at this rate.





PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Hmmm dang it










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Need to see close to battery voltage on that grey wire - that is what powers the injectors. The ECM drivers simply supply the ground. Now that grey wire is spliced into the same CKT (#120) that supplies voltage to the fuel pump - from the fuel pump relay (underhood). Check these areas.

No voltage here - don't expect it to run.

Mike

m dailey wrote:Need to see close to battery voltage on that grey wire - that is what powers the injectors. The ECM drivers simply supply the ground. Now that grey wire is spliced into the same CKT (#120) that supplies voltage to the fuel pump - from the fuel pump relay (underhood). Check these areas.

No voltage here - don't expect it to run.

Mike

If I remember correcgtly his fuel pump is kicking on, and has been. If it is then that grey wire does not mean anything.

If the fuel pump is not kicking on then check the wires where they connect to the relay under the hood. I had them get loose and not make a good connection.

I still think it has to do with the ignition switch.



FU Tuning

Too Whiney wrote:

m dailey wrote:Need to see close to battery voltage on that grey wire - that is what powers the injectors. The ECM drivers simply supply the ground. Now that grey wire is spliced into the same CKT (#120) that supplies voltage to the fuel pump - from the fuel pump relay (underhood). Check these areas.

No voltage here - don't expect it to run.

Mike

If I remember correcgtly his fuel pump is kicking on, and has been. If it is then that grey wire does not mean anything.

If the fuel pump is not kicking on then check the wires where they connect to the relay under the hood. I had them get loose and not make a good connection.

I still think it has to do with the ignition switch.

I check everything this weekend. I have new ignition switch in the car......also my fuel pump kicks on and runs just fine. I think this weekend I'm going to manual ground a injector to see if it fires. I'll also check the grey wire.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO