HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST???? - Page 2 - Exterior Forum

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Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, December 21, 2006 9:56 PM
Don Long wrote:

dont trust your body work to just anyone. I had some guy that works part time out of his garage paint and install my blitz kit. He was to fit, mold, paint. He half assed the whole job. the paint looks nice. But the rear has a gap between the trunk and the bumper. The bumper itself sticks out a little on one side. The skirts needed to be sanded on the rear underneath and now the front is saging. I payed $600 for this. But I also got the kit from ebay. So if you get a kit from ebay, take it to a well experience body man and make sure its done right. Now I am replacing the back because well...i dont like it anymore and its been damaged due to poor installation, I also have to have everything adjusted and molded.


The LOCATION the work is done at doesn't have anything to do with the quality. I've seen beautiful jobs come out of someone's "home garage", and I've seen horrible work come out of a "professional body shop"... and vice versa.

Researching the work of a person/shop is the safest bet





Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, March 29, 2007 7:16 AM
[quote=¤§Fallen Angel§¤]
michal olechowski wrote:

i'm not a very active member here.

But since when do rants become stickies? this is a thinly vailed rant about newbie posts. Could be sumed up in a a few words.

A) Quality = Money.
B) Good paint job required experanced painters.


Well, had you been here for a while, you'd understand why this is a sticky. The same questions get asked 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 times with the same answers, and, unfortunately something as simple as "Quality=money" and "Good paint job requires experienced painters" a lot of people can't seem to grasp.

Stick around the site for as long as I have and tell me you wouldn't mind the same posts over and over and over again. (I've been on here for 4 1/2 years). Maybe if people searched too, there wouldn't be a need for stickies.

This isn't an attack on you, so please don't take it that way, I'm glad you realize your A and B points, but many don't... so this was merely made by me to educate those who don't understand why we (auto body/paint professionals on this site) can't give estimates and what all goes into a great paint job, and explains also why not just any joe schmoe can pick up some bondo and paint and do a great job.

So, in conclusion, the "few words" you think it could be summed up in, can't be summed up in so few words, because if it could, there would have been no need for this sticky... and the mods wouldn't have decided it should be a sticky. Sticky posts are there for good reason. If that doesn't make sense to you or you sttill don't think this shouldl be a sticky, then be more active on the forums and read all of them and the repeated posts that are made. If you also read this whole sticky, you would have seen that it actually did help some people too... and that's what it's here for. Well that, and to make easily accessable the information people may need when making decisions on body work and paint... when no one is here all the time to answer such questions and have the knowledge to back it up.


I AGREE WITH YOU 100%





Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, June 26, 2007 10:40 AM
i know im madddd late here... but i agree totally except with our shop, depending on the circumstance, we will redo the paint job if it orange peels...

The cheapest clear we'll use is Naisen brand... but we try to talk everyone in to using Chroma-Clear...

another thing to add in is that changing the color is also more expensive because more work is involved (besides jams, under hook, trunk)... with going back to the same color, all one needs to do is scratch and shoot... but with a different color, it needs to be at least primered .

We'll charge $750 for scratch and shoot, and $1500 for basic paint w/ jams -- for example


its also funny to hear people refer to everything as "bondo"... Bondo is a brand name that makes body filler (one of the last steps in custom body work)...

Most people don't know the difference between:

Fibreglass resin (liquid) and fibreglass matting (flease (for speaker boxes), thick, and thin)
Tigre-Hair Long strand Fibreglass Jelly
Short Strand Fibreglass Jelly
Body filler
Spot & Glazing putty






Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, June 26, 2007 10:50 AM


Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Monday, July 02, 2007 9:42 PM
ThaCensoredOne(XtrmeDelusions) wrote:

i know im madddd late here... but i agree totally except with our shop, depending on the circumstance, we will redo the paint job if it orange peels...

The cheapest clear we'll use is Naisen brand... but we try to talk everyone in to using Chroma-Clear...

another thing to add in is that changing the color is also more expensive because more work is involved (besides jams, under hook, trunk)... with going back to the same color, all one needs to do is scratch and shoot... but with a different color, it needs to be at least primered .

We'll charge $750 for scratch and shoot, and $1500 for basic paint w/ jams -- for example


its also funny to hear people refer to everything as "bondo"... Bondo is a brand name that makes body filler (one of the last steps in custom body work)...

Most people don't know the difference between:

Fibreglass resin (liquid) and fibreglass matting (flease (for speaker boxes), thick, and thin)
Tigre-Hair Long strand Fibreglass Jelly
Short Strand Fibreglass Jelly
Body filler
Spot & Glazing putty


If you read all of my sticky, you'd see I mentioned why color changes are more expensive...

Also... if you work for a shop, you should know that...

ORANGE PEEL IS COMPLETELY NORMAL AND UNAVOIDABLE!!!!!

Do you work for Maaco by any chance??? $1500 for a basic paint with jams is INCREDIBLY cheap for a shop that isn't Maaco... and I've never heard of even an all exterior (no jams) paint job as cheap as $750 either.

Yes, Bondo is a brand name (and a crappy one at that)... I agree with you there... and with the people not knowing differences between different "auto body products"

If the shop you work at believes orange peel isn't normal... educate them, or find a reputable shop to work in that actually knows what the heck they are doing. Don't mean to be rude, so please don't take offense... but whoever was telling you orange peel isn't normal and that the paintjobs you gave examples for should be more expensive is out of their darn minds and doesn't know what the heck they're doing...




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, July 17, 2007 1:10 PM
nope... Phat Nasty'z Customs... we do anything and everything... Full Widebodys, conversions, custom paints (Candies/kandies, Marble, Ice, Chamillion) (which are $5000 paint jobs). Our painter has 20+ years experience and none of our paint jobs left the premises with orange peel, unless the customer optioned for cheap clear... then again we do usually buff cars before they leave too...

and i forgot to mention the $750 Scratch & Shoot no jambs was a special for the months of June/July... its usually 1200.

also for example, we mold firbeglass body kits first with hidden screws (if able to) and then mold them to vehicle using resin and matting, and then fill it in with tigrehair.. most sideskirts except for maybe like andy's autosport and other cheaply made skirts, you can stand on and not break the mold...



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Sunday, July 22, 2007 10:44 AM
Yeah none of your paint jobs leave with orange peel... what I was saying is:

WHEN YOU SPRAY CLEAR COAT, ORANGE PEEL IS NORMAL!!!!

Period, end of story. No matter what kind of clear coat you get, you will get SOME degree of orange peel. And, depending on the painter, the gun, and the clear, will determine how much orange peel you get. It is impossible to spray a car and get absolutely no orange peel whatsoever.

How do you get rid of orange peel? You wet sand and buff it out.

I painted for 5 years, I know. Look at new cars on a dealer's lot. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM HAS ORANGE PEEL?!?! And they're sprayed by machines. Machines cut out the human error factor. No matter what you do, you cannot spray a car and have no orange peel. Orange peel is gotten rid of by wet sanding and buffing... and it is totally normal.




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Monday, July 23, 2007 9:19 AM
Please, this is not meant to ruffle anyones feathers, if any I do apologize. According to two the sites below, providing Automotive finishes they have this to say.

Quote:

Description
Pebbled, uneven surface of the paint film, similar in appearance to orange skin.
Cause
Failure of the paint droplets to coalesce on the surface.
This may be due to:
a) Poor spraying technique, spray gun too far from surface, incorrect compressed air pressure, incorrect nozzle adjustment.
b) Excessively thick or thin film.
c) Paint incorrectly mixed, wrong viscosity, poor quality or incorrect thinner.
d) Insufficient drying time between coats, cold air fanning to speed drying.
e) Incorrect ambient or surface temperature, draughts.

Prevention
a) Use the correct spraying technique and ensure that equipment is correctly adjusted.
b) Apply paint in thin even coats.
c) Ensure that the paint is correctly mixed, use only recommended thinner with the correct grade.
d) Allow sufficient drying time between coats.
e) Spray within the recommended temperature range and ensure proper ventilation.

Rectification
Rub out the orange peel, compound and polish. In severe cases it may be necessary to flat and repaint the surface.
PPG Refinish

Quote:

ORANGE PEEL
(Poor Flow, Texture)

Paint film having an uneven texture that resembles the skin of an orange.

CAUSE

1. Under reduction and/or air pressure too low.
2. Thinner/reducer evaporates too fast for spray conditions.
3. Excessive film thickness or piling on of heavy wet coats.
4. Improper spray gun set-up.
5. Improper painting technique.

REPAIR

1. Compound or polish to reduce surface texture.
2. Or, sand smooth with 1200 or finer grit sandpaper, compound and polish to restore gloss.
3. Or, sand smooth and refinish.

PREVENTION

1. Use proper reduction ratio and spray at recommended air pressure.
2. Select recommended thinner/reducer based on temperature, humidity, air movement, and size of repair.
3. Avoid heavy coats and excessive film thickness.
4. Use recommended spray gun, fluid tip and air cap for the material being sprayed. Always adjust the gun for best atomization and balanced spray pattern before paint application.
5. During paint application, hold the gun perpendicular and parallel to the surface. Adjust speed of pass, pattern overlap, and distance from the panel to achieve the desired appearance.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Monday, July 23, 2007 1:21 PM
Ok has no one read what I typed at all? Go around to new car dealerships, look at the brand new cars... look at the texture of the clear coat... guess what.... IT HAS ORANGE PEEL!!!! Why do new cars have orange peel?

BECAUSE IT IS NORMAL

If a friggin machine can't spray a paint job with no orange peel... what makes you think for a second a human can? Because it's virtually impossible.

Unless you have a weather station in your body shop which calculates exact temperature, humidity, controls and and all dust present in the atmosphere, and automatically adjusts the mixture of your clear coat that you are spraying and have sprayed along with the gun settings/air pressure, etc... you cannot prevent all orange peel from happening on the surface.

It is normal, you cannot completely prevent it unless you have something like the imaginary above mentioned weather station in your shop.


What those sites also do not mention is the fact that there are varying degrees of orange peel. A little orange peel is completely normal, an excessive amount is not and is due to in some way painter error. The best damn painters in the world cannot prevent all orange peel. Watch Chip Foose or Boyd Cottington (or however you spray it) paint... after the paint job is done guess what? They wetsand and buff. Why? To give the VERY expensive jobs they do a mirror finish. Why? Because there is some degree of orange peel... and when you pay that much for a car, you want a mirror finish.


Whatever. Apparently I know nothing about what I did for 5 years until my knee gave out.




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:44 PM
I understand, again I do apologize.
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:05 PM
michaelj1967 wrote:

I understand, again I do apologize.


It's cool... I understand what you were trying to accomplish there, and I apologize for coming off short (was having a bad day). I'll never claim to know EVERYTHING, and if I don't know the answer I'll refer someone to someone who knows more, or I'll ask someone else myself. I was more irritated at the fact that someone (not you) who apparently doesn't paint, but apparently works at a shop, comes in here and says that orange peel isn't normal blah blah blah. I can understand someone not knowing ANYTHING about painting wondering... but if you work at a reputable shop, unless you're a moron you know that orange peel is NOT completely avoidable... period.

Sorry again if I came off really short, but I guess after being on here 5 1/2 years, painted for 5 years, and the fact that I'm starting a new job as a tattoo apprentice AND starting college at the end of August... my nerves are worn a bit thin lol.





Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, August 21, 2007 11:41 PM
i think we have 2 definitions of orange peel...

mine is physical... not only can you see it, you can feel it to as you run your hand across it...

yours is just looks...

the worst orange peel ive ever seen was when some dood brought their car to the shop after they used house paint rollers and sherwin williams house paint.... we talked so much @!#$... the car literally had a raised texture about 5 - 6 mms

most of our paint jobs are custom and are usually $5000 + so they almost all get buffed...

ive also been doing body work for about 5 years








Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Wednesday, August 22, 2007 12:13 PM
Extreme Delusions(Speedline Z) wrote:

i think we have 2 definitions of orange peel...

mine is physical... not only can you see it, you can feel it to as you run your hand across it...

yours is just looks...

the worst orange peel ive ever seen was when some dood brought their car to the shop after they used house paint rollers and sherwin williams house paint.... we talked so much @!#$... the car literally had a raised texture about 5 - 6 mms

most of our paint jobs are custom and are usually $5000 + so they almost all get buffed...

ive also been doing body work for about 5 years


Yeah I'm thinking what you're calling "orange peel" is actually "excessive orange peel". Either way, orange peel is orange peel, whether it is my definition of "just looks", or your definition of "not only can you see it, but you can feel it"... it's still orange peel no matter how you look at it, a certain amount is completely normal and completely unavoidable, but an excessive amount by your definition where you can actually FEEL the texture of the paint, most certainly is not normal and IS painter error in one way or another, I do agree there.

Sorry if I came off short or bitchy, I try to do what i can to help people with autobody/paint related questions in here, and it's hard enough as it is with people getting horrible advice from people who know diddly squat about the trade... I didn't want anyone thinking that orange peel is a bad thing, and then having more things to argue with people about who don't know what they're talking about (that's not meant to offend anyone) because they think ANY orange peel is bad... when in fact a certain amount is completely normal... if that makes sense?

I think since we understand each other now, I extend my e-hand to you and offer my apologies for flipping out a bit lol. No hard feelings?




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Wednesday, August 22, 2007 5:34 PM
no hard feelings... i dont even do toooo much body work anymore... our shop split from being Final Phase, Inc (which had a store front (aftermarket parts & Accessories), Body & Paint shop, and Signage/Graphics shop) to Phat Nasty'z Customs, LLC and Versatile Signs & Auto Designs, Inc.

Final Phase still exists but the ownership is poor...

I helped Phat Nasty'z Start up... but between my carpal tunnel, and this pain between my thumb and index finger when i try to mix glass (it used to bug me only with Tigre Hair (Long Strand), but now its short strand and filler too... i decided to back out and just be their computer tech... When we opened up Versatile, i found weeding out vinyl and installing was a lot easier on my hands/wrists... so i do all that and the computers here as well

the only body jobs we do here is if the estimate is like $5000 or more, and we rent out the paint booth at the other shop when we need to paint...

besides my own car... over the years ive spent a lot of time working on the owner of the shop & club's car

http://a527.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/103/l_5264590fe4d41e19c5d8f34d0190a48e.jpg
http://a930.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/113/l_e2e744a781d22a900bed449cd5db86a1.jpg
http://a373.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/128/l_d101cd34736b719d4db268342fe572cc.jpg
http://a300.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/119/l_001d6f52c20c7378412ed10a62977cbb.jpg
http://a331.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/77/l_9f9b8da0166fba481acfe3310e417aea.jpg



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, August 22, 2007 5:35 PM


Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, November 10, 2007 5:15 AM
Good post. I agree with most everything, except orange peel is necessarily normal in the clear. Clear can be sprayed pretty much orange peel free with a good gun and proper size tip, gun setup, and spray technique. But with urethane clears of today, it is very tough eliminating what is natural to it known as urethane peel. Add to that urethanes are higher solids today then 10 years ago. You can wetsand and cut flat and then buff, and remove all orange peel, but still have urethane peel. The car will look free of orange peel, but when you look down the car in the right light and angle, it will look a bit wavy like the bodywork maybe wasn't done perfect. On show jobs they try to elimate this by spraying on enough clear, sanding flat with a fairly course sandpaper (like around 400-600 wet) and then applying a couple more coats of clear (maybe even reduced a little more)over the sanded clear with good wet and glossy coats,but not going too heavy on the clear. Even though you have sprayed quite a few coats of clear sprayed, you sanded a bit off cutting it flat
. Many miss the look of the old lacquer clears even though they are junk compared to urethane and require a lot of upkeep. But the look of a buffed out lacquer finish is hard to beat while it lasts. This lacquer is also where people get the idea 10 coats of clear would be a good idea. Lacquers were much thinner then urethanes, and required many coats to be applied. With urethane anymore then 4 would be a waste, and just be more prone to problems such as chipping or dieback with the added thickness.

Some cars, the clear is pretty nice and orange peel free. Most are not. Factory jobs are usually poor and some look like stucco. Part of the reason they apply the paint with peel like that may be to hide wavyness in panels, as well as not caring about great quality. They try to cut a buck wherever they can. Some don't even spray enough color, and you can still see the primer through in spots and some have striping in the metallic. Look at all the lawsuits there have been over the years on faulty factory paint. I wouldn't say since factory jobs have orange peel that clear will absolutely have it. Look at this spiffy job the factory robots did that someone posted awhile back. Notice the stripes are verticle, the direction the robots spray. Even a photo can't hide it.








http://victorylap.50webs.com
Autobody/ paint
Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, January 17, 2008 8:24 PM
Every once and a while I cruise on over to here from the third gen to see whats up and much to my amaze I see this sticky.
This Is AWSOME!!!!!!.
As An autobody repairer/refinisher for 15 years Ill have to say that YOUR RIGHT on the money NIkki. Even on the orange peel topic.
The guys that are saying no and quoting PPG and others on the reasons for orange peel havent worked in the field before. The paint manufacturers are referring to excessive orange peel, caused by countless things, from wrong the choice of reducers and activators for the temp that the product is sprayed to excessive air pressure and so on. So Dont knock Her cause shes a girl, she knows what she's talking about.

The orange peel that is to be expected is the same as the auto makers, which has a slight ripple in it that doesnt effect the shine much when looking across it(ie reflection). If you cant see a good reflection of objects then thats not an acceptable job.

All of my work gets sanded and buffed, I just cant see spending all of that prep time and not doing it. Some not as much sanding than others though, I will try to texture match the exhisting panels on a newer car that Im only painting a fender and a hood.
Overalls that the customer is paying good money for, will definetly get a good mirror sand and buff, Sometimes as fine as 4000 grit final sand on black.

Dirt in the paint is another thing. Its really luck of the draw with dirt , fish eyes and gnats. Some times fish eyes just appear and you gotta use some nifty tricks to remove them, as well as a gnat in a white paint job, and why does their legs always come off when you try to tweese them out of the clear.
And dirt, or house dust. I could go on and on about dirt. Epa regulations and insurance requirements require a manufactured paint booth with approve filter systems. That all boils down to dirt. You have to have a high flow exhaust fan which sucks on intake filters in the booth, which have loose particles, and pull air across the car sucking dirt from crevices and such. The painter is the worst culpret of all, but ya gotta get the paint sprayed on some how. we dont have factory paint robots at work. They you have guys spending over $100,000 for a spray booth because the salesman said that you wont get dirt. Well He lied, any any one that has sprayed in a $100,000 booth will agree, It makes no difference. I have had less dirt in a job when I paint it out in the middle of the shop floor, of course that happens only when Im in a bind, but the jobs actually have little to no dirt.

I did a 56 fairlane this past summer, show quality, the guy wined about the $13,000 dollar bill, but it was a restore that included a total gut, from engine, interior, to suspension rebuild. He got every penny's worth. Funny thing is that after wining , he left the garage to go to a show where he won best of show in his class.
So if you want a good job, expect to pay. Especially on old restores.

Ok For you the flame guy, that keeps asking, Its not cheap, its very time consuming. the last one that I did I spent 6 hours prepping, thats just laying out the flame, and masking. You gotta remember that once the paint goes on the lines are perminant. There was one set that I did on a pro stock mustang a couple of years ago that took 12 hours from sealer/primer to finished product. And still needed to be sanded and buffed for the perfect finish.
So what Im getting at is you better have some cash and have a good shop in mind that is willing and eager to do it.
There is nothing worse than a bad painted on flame job, so dont just say here do it. Look at their previous work.

And again , Nikki the sticky is great, there need to be more chicks with car knowledge like you.







01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Thursday, January 17, 2008 8:48 PM
Oh I forgot. If any one needs any thing done and your local We can write you up an estimate only if you stop by.
Most of our work is Collision jobs for insurance claims. We occasionally take on long term overall projects. As of now I have a long term 66 Nova and not currently taking on any new long terms till spring. Any other jobs welcome to stop in.
I wont do cheap body kits. Oh , hold on. I W O N T DO C H E A P B O D Y K I T S. for the vision impared.
We have RM computerized in house paint mixing with variance decks, a must for todays colors and blends.
Full mechanical, A/C repairs, and Frame straightening also available.



Arrow Frame and Collision
301 Main street
Tiltonsville, Oh 43963
740-859-4446

For the Ohio Body shop Association web site . http://www.oboa.net/
www.mapquest.com


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:30 AM
Wow thanks Joe! My only question to you would be... why don't you stop in here more often?? LOL

The only other auto body / paint tech I know of offhand that stops in on a fairly regular basis is bigdaddy (I'm not counting people who are just in school for it), I think there may be one or two others with any kind of experience, but I can't recall names because they don't post much. There's been times I've needed backup and no one was around!! But hey, thanks for the post and stopping in!!!




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, January 19, 2008 9:40 AM
Partially because I like to keep work at work. If I do post it seems I have guys not listening to the advice or wanting to argue about it. Its like I dont know what Im talking about or something. From time to time I stop in to see if there is anything worth my poor typing skills to respond. You see I cant type worth a damn and to respond it quite a chore, then I get criticised for the answer. Who wants that or has that kind of time to waste on people that dont listen.

Nikki if you need a second opinion send me a link to the post in my mailbox and Ill look over the post and respond.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:19 AM
man i hadn't been on this forum in ages, but somehow this topic finds it way, in my mailbox, everytime somebody posts.
i now own my own kustom painting business.. AirWerxs Koncepts out here in rich mountain , near mena, arkansas if anybody wants some kustom stuff done, im booked up for the year already but i can always work in somebody.
i do anything from body work, kustom building to spraying anything under the sun, kandies/pearls/flakes.
also im doing freehanded pinstriping n scrollbrushing. only one in the area. im not limited to just certain things.
email: airwerxs@yahoo.com

hey niki i tried instant message you but i guess you wasn't at your computer.
sorry i dont come on here more, but im tied up with business.
give me a hollar girl, sure miss the company.




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:43 AM
Joe I completely understand LOL. And people wonder why I get short with them in my responses... someone asks a question, I answer, they argue with me. So I totally know where you're coming from there. I'll NEVER claim to know EVERYTHING, or that ONE way is the only way to go... but yeah... it's lke I have no idea what I'm talking about or something...


And NV.... I tried to message you back when I got to the puter... I have a new screen name now that's in my profile, MystiqueAngel311 Add me and say hello!!!




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Friday, February 15, 2008 12:08 AM
Fallen Angel wrote:

The only other auto body / paint tech I know of offhand that stops in on a fairly regular basis is bigdaddy (I'm not counting people who are just in school for it), I think there may be one or two others with any kind of experience, but I can't recall names because they don't post much. There's been times I've needed backup and no one was around!! But hey, thanks for the post and stopping in!!!

Nikki: *cough*cough*cough* i havent been on the org lately but i'm still around...

i know i know... you're like "where the hell did he come from" =P

we painted 2008 Scion XB last month. First we moved the single reverse light to the center of the bumper with a second one purchased next to it, cause that single reverse light in the corner thing is stupid. then we painted Limetime green fading to bright yellow flames coming up the bottom... then we sprayed the whole car with huge flake, and finally topped it with Chroma Clear. Being that the owner only had the car for 5 days before bringing it to us... we spent 3 days wet sanding and buffing it to get all the orange peel out... looks good as a bi-atch now way better than the factory paint (in terms of visual appearance) ... surprisingly... the owner was able to put 22" chrome wheels on it without any rubbing. He also put 5 % tint on it...


In the booth

Finished

Heres the thing... the painter is the owner of the shop... and he fell and broke both of his arms at the end of october... and the scion was painted about a month ago... so its pretty good he can paint again...


Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Friday, February 15, 2008 12:13 AM



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:59 PM
Speedline, heh I said big daddy was the only other autobody/paint tech that stops in on a fairly regular basis... key word fairly regular basis You've been MIA mang!! (just playin around)




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Monday, February 18, 2008 12:31 AM
yeah ... and i just scrolled up and you said that January 19th... for somereason the other day i read it as december 19th (i was still regularly posting then)...

i hardly ever use AIM anymore... but im always on the space.

so what do you think of the Scion we painted?



Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, February 19, 2008 2:37 AM
from what I can see it doesn't look bad (pics are kinda crappy though lol) I can't imagine breaking both of my arms... I'd go nuts! I couldn't drive, couldn't tattoo, nothing!! I broke one of my arms years ago and that was bad enough, but sheesh BOTH?!?!




Re: HOW MUCH WILL MY BODY WORK COST????
Tuesday, February 19, 2008 2:44 AM
yeah ... i picked up the slack for him after it happened...

i have yet to touch the 93 cavalier besides changing the fuel pump....

grr show season has already started....

guess the Z is going out again this year ... hopefully with some carbon fibre additions *smirk*



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