Showfire the diagram above should work for you also. And follow the diagnostic steps above also. Remember that the light bulbs have power to them all the time at the b terminal of the bulbs, they only need a ground to work. (ground switched circuit)


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

so Thanks I will try this tomorrow night and see that I can figure out!
Im not great at wiring but I can manage my way though it just takes me longer. I will post tomorrow night and let you know what I discover!


ShowFire

I got mine working tonight after a couple hours of diagonsis, I remember why I hate wiring lol. On paper it looks so simple, then you start trying to find the wires on the car haha.
I ended up having a bad wire from the output on the switch to the headlights and when I turned on my high beams I got a weak ground a the headlights but a good ground at the output. So I just spliced into the wire at the output and at the headlights and ran a new wire in parallel with the old. Its all fixed!


ShowFire

Good to hear


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Hey i have a question... my drl are not working and when i put the car into drive it clicks on 3 times then off and the service light comes on. my low beams are flawless but when i switch to my high beams only my drivers side works. any ideas?? I have checked a little here and there on the wiring and plugs to make sure nothings wrong and found nothing. I do have a set of arctic purple headlights that i installed a few months ago but i dont think thats the problem.

Thanks for the e-mail Joe, Unfortunatly I didn't receive it until i came in from fixing them haha. Also forgot about not touching Pin B Once I blew my first fuse I remembered, then about 10 ins later when I blew the fuse again after replacing it, I remember to stay away! haha
Thanks for the help!


ShowFire

Joe S.
If one works and the other doesnt its probably the bulb. the high and low on the same side use the same fuse for power. when they are turned on the ground wire is split and goes to each light, meaning they share the same switch terminal.
Your DRL's use the high beam bulb thats why the service light is on, bulb blown.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

well, when i bought my fire, only one high beam worked...i tested various things, and eventually pulled the harness apart (the wire running between each headlight) and found that the 3 or 4 connections made between there and the actual lighting harness plug (big plug just under the batt i think) turned to powder and fell apart soon as i got the tape open...it was sending small voltages but obviously not enough for anything...if you've checked everything else try checking them connections...also, since those connections fried or turned to powder or whatever you want to call it, it burnt up one of the wires inside the lighting plug, so check all those connections there too...i know that when the certain burnt connection in the plug isn't connecting right it cuts out my dims and i only have high beams, and no drls...(part of the reason i got the car for $500..easy fix!!)...hope this helps...



Burning To Rise And Disprove All Who Would Take Comfort In My Demise -Divine Heresy

Interesting point. I have seen that same thing in mostly front wheel speed sensor wires. I always thought is was caused by water and or salt getting in the wire from damage to the wire insulation at some point in time. That could be cause of the notorious 1 dim headlight cavs.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

alright, thanks for the help. I will check things out probably tomorow if the weather permits. It's really cold and I don't have much garage space.

joe malechowski wrote:Fog lamp relay has nothing to do with the headlights.
The DRL will not prevent the headlamps to turn on.

Column switch test:
1....Unplug either one of your headlights , take a grounded wire and touch it on pin c of the actual light bulb plug, it should be pink(or orange), this will bypass the column switch for the high beams.

2....Since you said that the lows work, this may make no diff but is any one else wants to check their lows, your going to want to do the same thing but attach the grounded wire to pin A blue wire, which bypasses the column switch for the low beams.

Both front bulbs run from the same wires, there fore when you alpply a ground to one bulb socket , the other side bulb will light.

If both tests will make the bulbs turn on, you need to move into the car to test the switch inputs.
1...Remove the lower half of the steering column, 3 screws.Then pop the top off also.

2...On the switch look for a black and a black/ white wire. those should be grounds all of the time. they will be on pins E and A

3...At this point you can test the outputs of the switch. remember the pink(or orange) and blue wires from up front. Well they are right there, on pins C and B. when you turn on the low beams the blue wire turns to ground, and when th highs are turned on the pink wire goes to ground. this can be checked by attaching a test light or volt meter to the positive post of the battery and then probing the pink and blue wires while turning the high and lows on.

Dont take it to a dealer, Its a simple switched electical circuit, like a light switch at home.
The BCM does not operate the High beams at all, It monitors them but thats it , so it can turn the little blue indicator light on in the cluster.

Ok I ran through all the steps. And I got 12v on the pink wire when the brights were switched on. Since all that works I don't know where to go from here. I was about to buy a new steering column switch. Now I am lost. I just ran across this topic today my post is located here http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=133934&t=133934. Thanks for any help!


1999 Sunfire 2.2L

First off, verify that both headlamp fuses are good generally they are 10 amp. There is one for the left circuit and one for the right circuit.
Next, verify you have 12 volts at the orange wire which is common hot for both headlight sockets.
Each pair of headlights are activated by grounding either the blue wire(low beam) or the pink wire (high beam).
Unplug your headlights and using a test light, NOT A DIGITAL VOLTMETER and verify you have continuity between each circuit when calling for each lamp, high or low beams.
So, 12 volts between orange and blue wires indicate your low beams should be on.
12 volts between the orange and pink wires indicate your high beams should be on.

If you have 12 volts available and good grounds at the lamp terminals then your lamps or the socket/contacts are defective. Also check the wires as I have found defects in the wiring that will limit available current (ie break or intermittent contact in the wire) giving false readings. It also comes from people using test probes and poking holes into the harness wires and not sealing them again when they are done. Corrosion starts and damages the wire itself.

If you do not have 12 volts available, you have a defective power wire or blown fuse.

If you do not have a signal to ground, then you have a bad connector at the underhood junction block, defective body control module (later years if so equipped) or defective headlamp switch.

Also, verify your HAZ lamp fuse, IGN 1 and IGN 3 fuses are good as some vehicles use those circuits for power and feedback to the Instrument Panel cluster Hi Beam indicator lamp and DRL circuits.