hey where can i get a set of stock valve springs and everything i need 2 install them im doing oversize valve and i dont wnat 2 get the different springs because with my build the stock ones will be enough any suggestoins and part numbers>?
IF your changing your valve size and making head modifications why would you not want to go with a better spring? I did when i built my engine and thank god i did.
and also maybe i am wrong on this but when you change your valve size doesnt the valve spring seating change as well ?
what do you suggest any springs that fit without machine work
do u know where i can get a set of the ones i need like a parts list or something i can look at?
Adam go to either of these
Car customs
I got a good majority of the parts used in my engine build here
Mantapart
i have the valves just need the springs
so what exactly do i have to do to install these
and what lokcs and retainers should i use
what if i was to use the stock springs would it work?
He's using a stock cam, that's why I told him to use stock springs.
I don't like to suggest converting to 97- valves because the custom pushrods cost so much, and they need to be different lengths for intake and exhaust then as well.
Josh G. wrote:Mantapart
I have "Mantapart" springs in my garage (on the built head in the classifieds). They are just OEM LS1 springs they sell as aftermarket for our motors. They cost something like $2 a piece from GMPD. While they give a solid 108# seated pressure, they will bind with anything above stock lift on 1.6:1 rockers.
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
Hey, is that head ported and polished?
MadJack wrote: Josh, you actually got parts from Manta part? You must have ordered C.O.D.. It's about the only way I've known anyone to actually get something from them! Or wait 6 month to a year or more before anything came in. I can say though, if somebody did get their orders from Mantapart, it was usually what it was supposed to be, but it was IF they got it!
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Yeah my engine build was well over 6 months. Between getting parts from mantaparts or waiting for childs and albert to send me my pistons. What head aches. Adam all i have to say is i feel for you. I do not regret doing the build but man was there the head aches with this engine. Good luck dude.
yea i am goign 2 go with that grind or the HR-214/301-14
Sorry, looks like that was someone else (too many PMs lol).
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
MadJack wrote:I know what you mean, Josh. It's been a few months since I've emptied my mailbox and I've got nearly four pages full.
Between being a single father with a full time job, a house and everyone sending me PMs, any wonder why it takes a little while to answer my PMs.
With the grind Adam's looking to go with, he might get by with stock springs with 1.5:1 rockers, but valve float might rear it's head at the upper rpms. You might be saying 1.5 rockers, isn't that a step backwards, not neccessarily, even with 1.5:1 rockers the ramp rate and total lift is still greater than the stock cam, let alonethe longer duration. 1.6:1 rocker will require a spring upgrade.
Nice. I've never emptied mine, so I have 13 pages in there.
I'm still planning on running the stock 2200 rockers and springs on my motor with the 206/313 cam, of course I'm going to verify they are indeed 1.54:1 before running the motor
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
would that cam be good for boost im planing on running 14-16psi would it work or somethign different?
bump for the 2200 geionouses
Adam Lewis wrote:would that cam be good for boost im planing on running 14-16psi would it work or somethign different?
If your planing on running that much boost why would you want to stay stock springs? I want to some day turn it up to 20lbs and dyno it with nitrous, cryogen and alcohol/water injection. See what the little "2200 that could" can do. LOL
I have no idea what my cam grind is to be honest.(Mantapart with no spec sheet) I had to have it read at a shop that has the machine to do it. I dont really know much about that other than its cheaper to go LD9. More of what drives the cost up on a build is when a company puts out parts and refuses to tell you where top dead center is.
im an idiot with the cam i have no clue what it means and im going 2 run meth injection
Mantapart FTL! A cam regring isnt a very expensive thing to have done in relation to the potential of power. the truth is, it is best for you to just get a decent turbo regind of your choice, that way you know what your getting. The one you said you were going to go with seemed fine. There wont be that much of a difference between turbo cam regrinds, because the stock cam can only go so far.