Well I am going to be ordering my pump shortly and just wanted to see if I had things straight in my head. I am planning on running 300whp (or maybe a little more) and just wanted to get things straight in my head. If the harness isn't really required I'll probably let it be for now, but if someone thinks I should definately get the harness for some reason than I may do that.

If you are going to stay at 300whp and never retune for more power then don't get it.. But if you plan on running more power later on then buy it now... Just buy it anyway because we all know you will want more power later on...

Get it right now.... its worth the price. it makes the pump run better and deliver fuel better. and you only have to pay for shipping and customs once. trust me, get it right off the bat and dont screw around. do it right.

I just installed mine yesterday, took an hour. It took that long cause I had to drop the tank by myself.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

good to know...harness it is

I just did this to my son's car but I also added a check valve at the Fuel filter. It makes it start just as did with the factory pump
C:\Users\Owner\Pictures\2010-04-02\033.JPG
C:\Users\Owner\Pictures\2010-04-02\034.JPG
C:\Users\Owner\Pictures\2010-04-02\035.JPG
C:\Users\Owner\Pictures\2010-04-02\036.JPG

^^ I'm not understanding the use of the check valve back there?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

assuming its because some people have problems starting the car right off the bat because the fuel drains back into the tank. i have not had this problem. but thats the only thing i could gather from it.

Yes its to make starting the car a little easier , for me it wasn't a bid deal but for my son it was

Gotcha, never really thought about that.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Interesting idea on the check valve. I drive a second car so sometimes the Cavalier will sit 3 or 4 days before being driven and starts a little harder and idles like a turd for a few seconds.

its simple, if you turn the key, by the time you have your seat belt on, or the radio on, the car is primed.

BuiltNBoosted wrote:its simple, if you turn the key, by the time you have your seat belt on, or the radio on, the car is primed.

DING DING DING.... open door, sit, turn key to on, buckle up, roll down window, start car. works like a charm everytime.

That check valve is a smart idea! Not necessary but a convienence. I just turn the key to on until the fuel pump "hum" goes away then I crank it. Still takes slightly longer than stock, but not crazy long.





"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."

Yea I always prime the car first before starting anyway. I think its a must for a turbo car imo.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

BuiltNBoosted wrote:its simple, if you turn the key, by the time you have your seat belt on, or the radio on, the car is primed.

I always do. The pump doesn't prime until a set pressure is reached, but stops after a few seconds if the car isn't being cranked or already running. In other words, it's not so simple. Fuel pump should already has a check valve, otherwise why would need to pull the relay and crank the motor to relieve fuel pressure? Now if a car bleeds off pressure and sits for a half a week like mine does then that three second pump prime isn't enough. Now for me the inline check valve as posted by John would come in handy. Otherwise I've got three options: (1) Let the car idle rough for a few seconds (2) Prime the pump multiple times or (3) Replace the pump.

ohvrolla wrote:

BuiltNBoosted wrote:its simple, if you turn the key, by the time you have your seat belt on, or the radio on, the car is primed.

I always do. The pump doesn't prime until a set pressure is reached, but stops after a few seconds if the car isn't being cranked or already running. In other words, it's not so simple. Fuel pump should already has a check valve, otherwise why would need to pull the relay and crank the motor to relieve fuel pressure? Now if a car bleeds off pressure and sits for a half a week like mine does then that three second pump prime isn't enough. Now for me the inline check valve as posted by John would come in handy. Otherwise I've got three options: (1) Let the car idle rough for a few seconds (2) Prime the pump multiple times or (3) Replace the pump.

the stock pump has a check valve, when you replace it with the racetronix, you lose the check valve. i usually wait for my wideband to warm up first but even if i dont i have never had a problem with just turning the key and going.

you pull the relay when you have the stock pump to relieve pressure.

Ya but having the check valve will also help with the -40 winter start ups

yeah i dont drive my car in the winter or cold. guess im lucky.

I live in AZ so I dont know what this "winter" and "cold" you are referring too...only melting crazy hot!





"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."

BuiltNBoosted wrote:

ohvrolla wrote:

BuiltNBoosted wrote:its simple, if you turn the key, by the time you have your seat belt on, or the radio on, the car is primed.

I always do. The pump doesn't prime until a set pressure is reached, but stops after a few seconds if the car isn't being cranked or already running. In other words, it's not so simple. Fuel pump should already has a check valve, otherwise why would need to pull the relay and crank the motor to relieve fuel pressure? Now if a car bleeds off pressure and sits for a half a week like mine does then that three second pump prime isn't enough. Now for me the inline check valve as posted by John would come in handy. Otherwise I've got three options: (1) Let the car idle rough for a few seconds (2) Prime the pump multiple times or (3) Replace the pump.

the stock pump has a check valve, when you replace it with the racetronix, you lose the check valve. i usually wait for my wideband to warm up first but even if i dont i have never had a problem with just turning the key and going.

you pull the relay when you have the stock pump to relieve pressure.

I have a stock pump with a questionable check valve. If I prime it a couple times after it's been sitting a while it does better. My other two cars will fire right up no matter how long they've been sitting.

I do not think stock pump has a check valve.

My car now with the racetronix can sit for a week and if I prime it the one time and start ti starts fine.



FU Tuning

i got a problem with my racetronix install heres pics
Different housing?











any ideas?

I might need to get this pump and would also like to know how to fix the issue of different housing! I read before someone had to pop a clip off the plastic housing in order for it to fit right in the tank??


"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"