Mike - I sent you an email.

Larger versions of Mikey G's pics:

Your work is beautiful sir, keep it up

Oh how I can't wait to see this completed! I hope there will be a drift video

Thanks for posting the larger pics




Jason
99 Z24

LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren

Holy crap. Tony! great job re-sizing the pics. Gona have to be careful what I send

Thanks for the compliments guys. Don't know about drifting. but i'm pretty sure they's gona be some fish tailing.

No problem! Great work on the build. Send me what you got and I'll post 'em up!

Would really like to see large versions of these in particular:

More Mikey G progress pics:

Thanks Tony - really
( this guy needs to clean up his freakin' garage................)

too bad ass. come do mine. its already gutted and up on stands



M45/OS crank/2.4 snout. It's nice to be injected but I love being blown!

For anyone who is still interested in the spring cutting subject, Both Eibach and Hotchkis told me that cutting a spring of a tangential style is safe and will not affect the integrity of the spring. They recommended the hacksaw method to ensure the lowest heat possible. The spring rate will increase though. Other designs could also be cut, but not many have the sophisticated roller bending equipment to reproduce the pig tail or SQ ends - BTW, this is done cold. Eaton Detroit Spring builds their own springs. They were also a wealth of information.
hope this helps settle some worries..

Mikey G wrote:For anyone who is still interested in the spring cutting subject, Both Eibach and Hotchkis told me that cutting a spring of a tangential style is safe and will not affect the integrity of the spring. They recommended the hacksaw method to ensure the lowest heat possible. The spring rate will increase though. Other designs could also be cut, but not many have the sophisticated roller bending equipment to reproduce the pig tail or SQ ends - BTW, this is done cold. Eaton Detroit Spring builds their own springs. They were also a wealth of information.
hope this helps settle some worries..

good deal, glad you worked with them at least. puts my nerves more at ease!

Engine dyno vid from Mike G:



Mike, in the video at the end we didn't get to see the final hp/tq numbers . . . unless I missed it? Looks like it was showing for a few seconds before the current engine speed chart, but couldn't really tell what the numbers were.

Not sure why it didn't attach - oh well here's the link until I get it figured out:

Mike G. 383 Engine Dyno

And on to more V8 Z24 badass build pics:













Mike - that was as big as I could get the iPhone pics . . definitely send me the camera pics for a larger view!

That car is really turning out nice MIke. It's going to fly with that 383.

The pull in the video was not the best. The engine was actually in process of spinning a rod bearing. I asked the machine shop for .0027" clearance on the rod bearings, they did .0023", thinking this was best for this application. They took it apart, reground the crank for .0027" clearance, replaced all the bearings and reassembled the motor N/C. They also paid for the re-dyno as well.
The best dyno pull out of 5 was 510 HP @ 5600 and 492 ft lbs of Tq @4500. This was using an "out of the box" Summit 600 cfm vacume secondary. It actually flowed 660 cfm. I know a 750 Double pumper would make even more power, but I chose the 600 cfm for better streetability. If If my changes to the car don't exceed my estimated total of 2600 lbs - this is plenty of get up and go with some spare.

Don't know how many of you guys out there who actually been at a dyno test. it's nothing compared to a video. Especially when it's your motor and doing pretty good #'s. I did this for a couple of reasons. One, was to ensure the machine shop's work prior to going the car. As you read, this proved to be good for me. I would have been a year from motor completion to actual start up in the car. I don't think the machine shop would have been that "helpful" if I came back a year later with these claims. Second reason was that if this motor has to come out, it is a major affair. Third, I wanted to see how much my combo / build was worth as far as HP & Torque. I felt the $500 was well worth it.

Hey Z
Give me your gutted car with the mechanics you want fitted in. i'll give you back a rolling chassis with the your build Come pick it up in the spring - $5400.00

Note: may have to trim the front coil springs

so did you end up utilizing the stock strut style on top of the axle housing then?



M45/OS crank/2.4 snout. It's nice to be injected but I love being blown!

Kinda like how the rear end is setup. Looking at doing something similar for the Chevette.


SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Z
J body struts were too long. I used struts from a Volvo. Same configuration but shorter. beefier too

SpeedRacerZ
Chevette shouldn't need any suspension mods, other than replacing the diff itself. I read an article from CarCraft or Hotrod. they put a 4.6 with a t-10. Rear diff ended up a 12 bolt shortened with the stock suspension brackets welded on the diff accordingly. (MO)

Mikey G

I've seen it done a few different ways. Ive picked up a 10bolt from a S10, WC T5 from a V6 Camaro, and a W41 Quad 4. The stock torq tube is not easily transferred, and actually not a huge fan of Trq tube setups. Also looking at ditching the stock spring/shock setup and doing coil overs to open it up for tire and exhaust. Looking at 24" "lower control arms" and not sure about how I'm going to tie in an upper yet, and an adj pan hard bar.


SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Great combo SpeedRacerZ, nice and light. Is the 10 bolt a 7.5 or 8.5? the later years of the 4.3 came with 8.5. The 7.5 comes with 28 spline axles. This carrier won't hold up to any abuse. The 8.5 uses 31 splines and there are plenty of options for carrier upgrades as well. Will it require cutting? If you don't have to cut, the stock axles should handle the torque / weight combo as the next weakest link would be the stock axles. When I was looking in the yards, the S-10 diff turned out to be too short for the J-Body. Keep in mind I wanted the stock looking, FWD offset. It might have been cool to see the lug section sunk further in, but this would have required aftermarket mags. I would of deviated from my build and budget. I opted to cut a full size 8.5 unit and go with Moser custom axles. This also gave option to use the same wheel bolt pattern as the front. The only 8.5 S-10 diff I could find was $650 and needed new brakes as well the 1/2 ton Pick up was $150 with fresh drum brakes to boot. (A Wilwood disk kit is in future plans).
How close is the spacing for what you need?

I did the upper links the A-arm style because of space restrictions. clearance between the diff and tank is tight and could not accommodate a panhard bar. What ever design you would choose should work out. I would recommend keeping your links adjustable. This will be required when dialing in the alignment and pinion angle.

Have you gotten started yet? love to see some pics !!!

Mike

It's a 7.5", but nearly the exact width of the stocker. Between swapping in an Eaton, rear cover with girdle support, the lighter chassis, lack of space for wide tires, the W41...... It should hold up for a while. Besides, I only paid $50 for it, lol. With all the upgrades I'll still have less into it.

Car is sitting stripped down. Stock axle is on a pair of saw horses, gutted. I need to finish mapping out the stock mounting locations before I cut them off. I have a build thread going on in Other Cars forum. It goes a bit off topic from time to time. lol


Now back to your build! I need ideas for my stripped down J-body!


SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Mikey G wrote:Z
J body struts were too long. I used struts from a Volvo. Same configuration but shorter. beefier too
Mikey G

ah, so the one i see dangling in the pic is actually a volvo strut, then?

pretty neat man. my dad has always said you could use the stock rear twist beam mounts and strut configuration for a rwd setup. ill have to show him these pics, he'll be blown away.


and looking back at the pics i absolutely love how everything is nice and fit into the car. not big, gaudy, and overdone. you can use the stock hood without issue, and you dont have a huge fuel cell dangling underneath the back. if you could put a set of stock wheels on it and make the thing look clean i would probably fall over dead LOL. to drive that thing around on the street/track with say a 200 shot and absolutely shock and disappoint tons of people would be my goal at least.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, June 21, 2013 10:56 AM


M45/OS crank/2.4 snout. It's nice to be injected but I love being blown!

Z -
Yes, they the ones. about 3" shorter than the J-Body's They fit in the upper mounts and step out to a much larger rod. The lower portion I used the orginal J-Body bolt.
I had the original J-Body springs installed on them. The strut spring purch compressed the spring and ended up with way too much rate. After my son replaced his 3 gen Camaro springs with a set of Hotchkis lowering springs, I gave his rear springs a try. They seem to work good for the height. Some road tests will confirm or not if they will be used. I looked last night for the flippin part # I used and cannot locate it. If you need it, I will look it up.