So rather than run 2 simple wires you would rather run RCAS and a remote wire from the same place, run a power wire from the hood, through the firewall, and back to the trunk, and create a good ground? Seems counter productive to me but if you want the amp, go for it. The benefit will be full range, better clarity, probably louder, and infinitely more tunability. Just remember that rear speakers are just rear fill, especially if you're planning on running a woofer. All your imaging comes from the front and its said that if you can hear the rear speakers from the front seat that they're too loud. a lot of SQ guys don't even run rear speakers.
"In Oldskool we trust"
^^ this...if you're gonna run all the wires invest in a good 5 channel amp ... that'll cover all 4 corners and give you some thump in your trunk. Song a hell of a lot better too. Made a huge difference for me, I'm runing ~60 watts to each corner and ~1000 watts for a sub. Run good wire if you're gonna go that route.
I hate typing on an ipad ... Sounds* running*
^Agreed. When I finally get the money together I'm going to run a quality 4-channel amp with a really nice set of components up front on channels 1&2, then bridge 3&4 for a 10" woofer. No rear speakers.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I'd recommend an Alpine amp, great sound quality and underrated power wise...always put out more than stated. I love both my MRX series amps. I wouldn't get an MB Quart amp...started with that and got rid of it in a week, not even close to the quality of sound from a Alpine. Of course there's other great brands too...that's just my experience.
Alpine definitely makes a better amp than most of the other typical brands, mb quart, jvc, pyle, soundstream, sony, etc. I had an MB Quart 4-channel before that wasn't terrible but it definitely wasn't great. I'm looking to go even more high end; Rainbow, Hertz, etc. I like what the iPauls from Rainbow have to offer. I already have a set of their components and may look into a 10" hammer too.
And yes Dustin, I know you're watching. I'll be getting in touch with you when the time comes.
"In Oldskool we trust"
well i was leaning against the sub route because of how much base the stock 6x9s produced, but since i cant replicate that.... then i was going to use an amp to power the rear kickers (theyd respond alot better) and use my other amp to power my Alpine Type R 10" woofer (dont need to much) and id let the HU handle the door speakers
has anyone ever made kick panels to install speakers in? make a difference? it seems more then a hasle to try and fit anything other then 4x6s in the doors from what im reading
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
If I were you I would ditch the rears all together if you will be running your sub. But if you really want to keep the rears Id use your amp to power your fronts and run the rears off the HU, like it was mentioned before all your imaging comes from the front. You can fit larger speakers in your doors no problem just need to buy/make a bracket for them. I have 6.5 in. Rainbow component system in my car (no speakers in the rear). Here is a link to the kind of bracket Im talking about
Bracket.
Dave
Everything said above is winning although those plastic adapters aren't the best. There are people on this forum that can make you great MDF rings to accept 6.5" speaker for cheap money. I would DEFINITELY go that route, the difference is night and day from an awkwardly sized 4x6.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I second making them out of MDF, I bought the cheap plastic ones like I sent a link to initially but they rattled and were just not very good. Made myself ones out of MDF and they are a whole lot better.
Dave
what is MDF? pictures? info on that? will they fit behind the door panel? trying to keep the interior looking as stock as possible
and i dont need a crazy sounds system just something, clear, and loud, loud enough where doing 75mph with the windows down it doesnt have to be all the way up to still be loud, as far as sub, i got that under control just trying to work out the speaker delema
ps, all u guys have been a great help in educating me about our cars stock sound systems and the ways around them, id like to thank everyone posting in this thread, and as i said before, iv done sound systems but never in a car this new, THANKS EVERYONE!
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
MDF is wood lol. That fine particle board that sub boxes are made of (not OSB/blandex) and yes they stay behind the stock grille in the door panel, the adapters just allow for 6.5 round speakers instead of stock 4x6, they also space it out some to run a speaker with bigger magnet/deeper mount depth.
Have a nice day.
Everything Jordan said is correct. MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard. Those plastic adapters are junk and will sound like junk, ask me how I know... Anyway, I think
Dustin can still get you a set of MDF rings that sound great, work great, don't break apart like the plastic ones, and fit 99% of all 6.5 speakers behind the stock door panel with no cutting necessary.
"In Oldskool we trust"
alrite cool ok so prettu much if i want a good sound system i basicaly need to scrap everything stock related and start completly over, gotchya
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
Yup pretty much like that on every stock system
Unfortunately our stock systems aren't so great. My suggestion is still to get an aftermarket deck in the dash, a set of 6.5" components for the doors, a sub in the back. F rear speakers they aren't necessary. If you seal the doors with some good stuff like Cascade or Second Skin and use MDF rings you'll have the best sounding system out of all your friends and it will still be pretty simple.
"In Oldskool we trust"
i may do that one day but as of right now i just need a good to great system not ever kill yet but someday, still have car payments on this cav unfortunatly, this is my 7ths cavy my 2nd third gen and only one i didnt pay full in cash
ok, so more questions have arised now that wev solved my major delemas....
why are you guys saying rears are not necessary?
what exactly are compnents? examples? suggestions of best kinds and brands and where to by?
and how would i go about removing/ bypasssing the factory amp. (yes i know i can just run my own wires but if i do that i wana remove the factory ones, i wana keep it looking stock inside)
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
They are saying they're not necessary because your sound satge comes from the front...personally i like my rears because they make the sound more big. If you do run rear i suggest getting the same speakers front and rear so the tone of them is the same (some speakers are more harsh/soft in the high end and so on)
Components have a separate tweeter and separate midrange/bass speaker. Thats why they are called components...there are pieces to the set. Most also come with crossovers.
I like JL Audio ... Im running the TR series, theyare pretty cheap and sound strong .... Nice thing about them is the crossover is in the line.
Other good brands are focal (their higher end lines), rainbow, hertz
I would remove the old wires...i believe their part of the loom for the car so itd be a pain in the ass taking apart the loom. Run new wires and dont hook up the speaker wires to the new headunit so there wont be a chance for an interference problem and power running through non used wires
Meant WOULD NOT remove the old speaker wires
ok, when i wire up the interface module ill just leave the 8 speaker wires unhooked from the hearness, ill only power the 2 fronts by the HU for now and ill use RCAs for my amp to power my rear 6x9s
i was asking because i didnt want any power going threw the old wiring or the stock amp being on if not being used, last thing i need is a car fire....
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
and im good with doing wiring so thats not a worry, i usualy solder and heat shrink any wiring i do, but i use the heat shrinkable but connecters sometimes, they work just as good as long as they are crimped nice and tight
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
Pretty sure the rear factory amp has its own fuse. I removed the fuse and the amp from the car
yes it does i looked today while doing alota stuff to the cav (i started a build thread)
whelp, anyway amongst the things i was fixing today, spark plugs new headlights strut tower bars ect, i decided to pull my door panels off and put BOTH windows back in the tracks, they wer off track when i got it, they working fine now tho o.0, i was also going to put in an extra set of pioneer 4x6s to get me by since my front speakers barely worked..... untill i found this was done by the PO.....
the hell..... thank goes they clear the window glass by 1/4", anyways the wiring the PO did was falling apart causing a bad conection on the drivers side and the pass side was not even working, i fixed it properly and used bigger screws so the speakers would stop rattling, they dont sound BAD but not good, no better then stock base sound systems sound for front speakers
however now i have no idea how to adress fixing it and putting good 6 1/2s in since my original speaker mounts are obviously LONG gone
what to do now???
AND ALSO IS THIS THE AMP?!?!?!
John Lenko wrote: It is bad. Stop. Now. Bad. Bad bad. Bad bad bad.
...j
Speaker mounts are a non-issue MDF adapters will screw/bolt to the door panel (the plastic ones use the stock mounting holes usually) and then put your 6.5 speakers into the adapters. You wouldn't be using any of the factory mounts either way.
Have a nice day.
