Head gasket
I think im going to get Vulcans short runner intake mani instead of going with a 2.3 HO mani
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Cleaned up the tranni and painted it. Cleaning this was a b*&^%. Also threw in some new poly mounts and cv joint seals.
Expecting my Vulcan exhaust mani sometime next week
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Slowly coming together. Gotta finish putting together the head and I can start to assemble the block again. Just waiting to get head studs
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Dont know how I missed this thread, but Iove everything going on. Ill also add that this is the perfect example of less is more.
your package left on fri. sir you should see it next fri. via ups
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
Boosted2point4 wrote:your package left on fri. sir you should see it next fri. via ups
Nice! Thanks Brandon
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
On your ABS delete, I see that you bought an early GM master cylinder.
I can tell this because they use 4 different connections for their ports which was a turn off for me.
But I am wondering how you did your stainless lines as I see that you have some kind of hydraulic connection of sorts that take the stock m/c port connections and convert the hardlines to the stainless lines. I'm curious to know how you did this or I'm overlooking the obvious with this.
Also, how did you continue down from there to the hardlines going to your calipers?
Again, out of interest on what you've done, I've done something similar but went a different path.
And very good progress on the car and your username suits your car to perfection, similar to the car.
Subscribed on the build and a response.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Misnblu wrote:
On your ABS delete, I see that you bought an early GM master cylinder.
I can tell this because they use 4 different connections for their ports which was a turn off for me.
But I am wondering how you did your stainless lines as I see that you have some kind of hydraulic connection of sorts that take the stock m/c port connections and convert the hardlines to the stainless lines. I'm curious to know how you did this or I'm overlooking the obvious with this.
Also, how did you continue down from there to the hardlines going to your calipers?
Again, out of interest on what you've done, I've done something similar but went a different path.
And very good progress on the car and your username suits your car to perfection, similar to the car.
Subscribed on the build and a response.
Yes the master cylinder is from a 91 corsica. I had a guy at Greenline a place in my home town make the lines for me. They make all kinds of hydaulic lines, ss brake lines, pretty much anything you can think of as far as lines go. The two on the left of the m/c he had fittings the correct size to adapt to the master, however the two course ones on the right we had to use the fittings that came with the corsica. He took the original conections and just reflared the line to adapt to the master. That solved the conections to the m/c. The stainless part of the lines are only about 6 inches or so long. On the ends of the stainless there are like compression fittings. They go straight onto the hard line, then just tighten them up and they create a perfect seal. He has bench tested some of these fittings and they will hold upwards of 5000lbs of preasure. Here is a pic of the other end of the stainless lines he made
So all I did was cut my hard line at a straight section, de bur the ends and slide the hardline into the fitting on the other end of the stainless and tighten it up. The brakes are all bled now and they seem to be holding up great!
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Yeah, that's pretty sweet that way that was done and I love it.
I had to reflare all my hardlines coming from the calipers, drill and tap the bottom ports of the original master cylinder that had the ABS attached to it, and buy 4 stainless lines that would then fit the hardlines with 37 degree flares and used adapters to the master cylinder to accept the AN fittings off of the new stainless lines.
You've done nice work though on the setup and looks really good under the hood.
Good to see someone else do this with success and getting rid of the ABS module.
Ultra sweet ride man and I look forward to future progress on your ride.
Oh and I can't help but post up a couple of pictures of my setup if you don't mind. I figure it won't hurt and we are still a little bit on topic with this.
Good luck and Merry Christmas to you and Happy New Year.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
I remember there was a post for deleting abs that you had those pictures in. I had full intention of using your method
. Once I actually had the master and talking to the guys at greenline they came up with this sytem for me. It just saved me from drilling and tapping my old master and going through the trouble of getting fittings and re flaring etc. The lines in total cost me about 130 bucks Canadian.
Thanks for the kind words, and Merry Christmas to you. Hope you have a great year to come!
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Very nice.
Love the look of that and can't wait to install mine on the new engine.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
nice pussy
and nice car!
My car was made with wrenches, Not chopsticks.
The vulcan manifold looks nice, but is overpriced IMO. Almost $400 for a log manifold with external gate flange, no thank you.
Ill definitely be watching your progress though!
Nice word dude, it's looking great. I'd love to find a nice set of seats like that
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
nice car man, i'm subscribed.
nice build. keep the updates coming.
car looks great btw. glad to see another ld9 build coming together.
JBOK.org / J-Bodies of Kentucky
icemike89 wrote:The vulcan manifold looks nice, but is overpriced IMO. Almost $400 for a log manifold with external gate flange, no thank you.
Ill definitely be watching your progress though!
A pricey peice indeed. I just didnt want to get a cheap ebay cast manifold. Im sure it may work for me but for how long? My only other real option was to make my own, and I cant weld worth sh^t lol. Time will tell how long this mani will hold up but I have faith in it
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Yea I hear ya man. Those ebay str cast manifolds arent too bad though, many have run them without problems. Id trust them opposed to some ebay stainless manifold if there were one.
I cant wait to see Atomic's manifolds he will be making for the ld9. Im holding out for one of those hah.
icemike89 wrote:The vulcan manifold looks nice, but is overpriced IMO. Almost $400 for a log manifold with external gate flange, no thank you.
Ill definitely be watching your progress though!
Is there another option out there??
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi
LG0/LD9 for Life
Blwn LD9 wrote:icemike89 wrote:The vulcan manifold looks nice, but is overpriced IMO. Almost $400 for a log manifold with external gate flange, no thank you.
Ill definitely be watching your progress though!
Is there another option out there??
Yep, the STR log cast manifold.
Thats terrible I can only name one.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Read Atomic's new eco manifold thread in the boost forum
Quik question for you guys. This is my first turbo build so it may seem like a dumb question to some
When oredering/selecting my turbo, should I have the downpipe on the passenger side or drivers side? Im thinking it should be on the passenger side of the turbo just because of the location of the wastegate on the vulcan mani. Maybe im missing something im just concerned with the room for the turbo if it sits with the downpipe on the drivers side.
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
Ok, after looking through the lets see your ld9's thread I think I have it figured out. My only delema now is should I run my charge pipe under the engine bay or up around the top.
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
