i just jizzed my paints. this has got to be one of my fav all time builds. i would give my left nut for that car. keep up the amazing work man

Yea, sweet..... Love this build










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Thanks guys. Im hoping its all ready to fire up in a week or two. We'll see.

Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

Starting to come together... Today I did the following:

machined the fuel rail for the hold down straps
made the fuel rail straps and welded them to the intake flange
welded the AN bungs to the fuel rail
everything seems to fit nicely




pressed the 1/4-20 studs into the valve cover
mounted the rubber stand offs and the coils to the valve cover




Installed the firewall braces
Mounted the boost gauge bulkhead fitting to the firewall plate.




Im really getting down to just some final details.


Dan



YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

You are extremely talented! Amazing work!

Nice










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

looks great, question where do you get the firewall connectors?




R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten

I generally "acquire" them. However, you can get them from Digikey, Mouser etc. They are Tyco (formerly AMP) circular plastic connectors (CPC).

Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

Almost finished the rack "depowering".

Its really pretty simple. I basically followed these instrucitons: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

I didnt take step by step pics, so Ill explain quickly.

1. Remove C clip from the column side of the rack (this will allow the pinion shaft to be removed later)

2. Remove the large lock nut (I had to beat it loose with a brass drift), the adjustment nut, spring and support yoke,

3. Remove the small cover on the bottom of the rack, exposing the nut that holds the pinion shaft in. Then tap the pinion shaft, bearing, seal etc, out the top side of the rack, where the C clip was removed in step 1.

This shows the bottom cover and nut removed, exposing the threads on the bottom of the pinion shaft


Here are all the pieces that should now be out
Row 1: bottom cover, pinon nut, top pinion bearing, seals C clip
Row 2: lock nut, adjustment nut, spring, (yoke not shown)
Row 3: pinion shaft


4. Loosen the large nut at the end of the rack where the pressure ports are. This may vary depending on the exact rack design. (you'll also need to remove the boot by cutting the clamps etc.)



5. Slide off the end rack cover exposing the shaft and the pressure seal and guide (DO NOT REMOVE THE GUIDE BUSHING).



6. Remove the bolt that holds the pressure seal in place, then tap the seal off the end of the shaft.

7. Clean up the old shaft, pinion etc, regrease and reassemble

8. Plug the unused ports however you like. I welded up the holes in the tube nuts that I pulled from the pressure lines.

Rack cleaned up.


Pressure port nuts welded up and everything painted (I have yet to decide how to plug the feed and return lines to the pump).


Tonight Im hoping to get it greased up and reassembled. Ill add the rest of the pics then.

Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

Finished assembing the modified rack.

Removed the power steering rack, pump, lines, cooler etc.

Mounted the idler pulley (Dayco p/n 89028) by drilling out the middle ps pump mount hole. I still need to machine up a real spacer and get a longer bolt, but otherwise thats done. The tensioner ended up in almost the exact right spot, according to the pointer and marker on the two halves.







Installed the new rack, completly torqued etc.




I weighed everything quickly and it looks like the swap removed about 13-15lbs, not bad.

Dan

EDIT: Gallery fixed!



YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

Damn no PS? nice....










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Right. Manual steering , and manual brakes.

The factory strut brace wouldnt fit with the new intake, so I came up with a new one.

I had the brackets laser cut, and bent, and then I welded them up and drilled the shock tower mounting holes. The brace itself is 4130 with 1/2" rod ends.

The new brace will allow me to enlarge the hole in the top of the shock tower so I can get the springs out easier for doing bump steer measurements etc. I'll prob get that cut out wed night.









Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

thats freakin sexy


I <3 JGM
I think bigfoot is blurry,
that's the problem. It's not the photographer's fault. Bigfoot is blurry. And that's extra
scary to me. There's a large, out-of-focus monster, roaming the countryside.
"Run! He's fuzzy!" "Get outta here!"

In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005

I SATCHMOE YOU!!!! wrote:thats freakin sexy

~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

moar updates?


~DVST8R~ aka ThaCaviKid
Nitrous is like wanting to have sex with a hot chick that has an STD... you wanna hit it,
but you are afraid of the consequences

Lots of little things done tonight.

-cut shock tower holes out to the size of the hole in the new brace (to allow for more adjustment, and damn it looks way better)

-removed stupid factory fender / firewall braces

- swapped +/- wires on coils (accidentally had these backwards, thanks Brian)

-made a blockoff plate for old f/w connector holes on pass side

-rest of the hardware installed on new f/w connectors

-last lined clamp installed on the return fuel line

-replaced washers on camber plates and put bolts in outer holes (so they arent directly adjacent to one another)

-primed and painted the bar part of the strut brace ( brackets tomorrow nite)





Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

I always hated the way the stock mustang throttle cable attached to the TB, and the way I have it mounted now it made no sense to wrap it way down, then way back up so I came up with my own pulley assembly.

I sourced a pulley for $6 from McMaster, and some cable ends and an adjuster from Flanders. It was quite simple to do. I just had to drill a few holes in the pulley: one for the cable barrel end and two to mount it to the original TB cable flange.

Shortened the stock cavy cable by about two feet and soldered the new barrel end on. This involves flaring the end of the cable after you push it through the barrel. The solder basically just keeps the steel part of the cable from pulling through as it cant squeeze small enough.

Made a simple steel bracket to hold the adjuster?. pretty simple really. I still need to add a return spring , but I have a plan for that, shouldnt take more than a few mins.







Painted the strut bar brackets and installed them along with the bar that I painted a few nights ago.





Installed the valve cover with new hex head hardware. I realy dont like using hex heads, but with the coil mount I couldnt access the socket cap screws to remove the cover (and remvoing the coil mount from the valve cover is a pain). Its not ideal but I can probably remove the cover in two mins.



I pretty much finished everything I had planned. I wanted to mount the MS and ground the main engine harness but there just wasnt time.

Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

Very sweet, when do you plan on a start up?










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Well, if I can get the intake flange decked, and if my fuel rail comes back from anodize next week (cant have E84 on that raw alum ).... MAYBEE next saturday (although, crap its the wife's bday, that might not work out)

Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

LOL oh ok. Can't wait










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

juicedz4 wrote:Lots of little things done tonight.

-cut shock tower holes out to the size of the hole in the new brace (to allow for more adjustment, and damn it looks way better)



Dan

Dan

That does look way better than stock. I may have to do that to mine as well

What tool did you use to cut the shock tower??




Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi

LG0/LD9 for Life

I taped the whole bay up with some masking paper, only exposing the towers (like surgery). Then cut the holes with this



Dan


YEP, my 60' times suck

247HP/267ftlbs at 13psi with built motor

Project updates and stuff: www.clubhousecustoms.com
email: dan@clubhousecustoms.com

Apparently I need to start checking P&M more often, because wow... Sooooo happy to see this one still going




fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster