I'll just leave this here..
wtf am I making now......
pics of the finished product when its done (the old aluminum plate was temporary)
I also picked this up two weeks ago....
need a bigger turbo stat
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
wow...... Just looked into pricing on that...... Idk how the wife would feel if I told her I spent more on a instrument cluster, than I did on the whole car...... plus new drivetrain. lol
Does look really nice though!
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Brian, there's two different versions.
The gps logger version is a LOT more expensive.
I have the display only version. It's around $650.
They have modules that plug into most aftermarket stand alones, including megasquirt 1 and 2.
Haltech, bigstuff3, aem, etc.
I'm using their obd2 interface that plus right into the obd2 port.
I have to admit, I'm a little disappointed as to what it monitors given the amount of information that can be displayed in hpt... But it what i really need to see...
You can add separate sensors with add on modules and program their out put in the software.
They have great customer service too.
What do you do when you need hp tuners? Run a splitter?
How did you get around passlock running the car without the stock gauge cluster?
jason norwood wrote:What do you do when you need hp tuners? Run a splitter?
HPT is mostly going to handle ignition timing, and even still, I'm debating throwing an MSD box on this car. The basic plan I have now... HPT won't really be used while I have the gauges plugged in. Fuel control is going to be handled by megasquirt.
Zs Z wrote:How did you get around passlock running the car without the stock gauge cluster?
when I reflashed the car with HPT, I disabled VATS. I don't know if that had anything to do with it or not... since you don't have to do a relearn when swapping gauges, I'm pretty sure that the gauge cluster is not part of the passlock loop.
On 2000+, the cluster isn't part of the passlock. I have driven a couple without the cluster without issues.
Great work PJ!
Does the gear indicator work off of vehicle speed vs. RPM?
Awesome, that's good to know!
newt wrote:Great work PJ!
Does the gear indicator work off of vehicle speed vs. RPM?
yessir.
it uses an equation that references rpm and mph pulses.
they have a calculator built into the software that makes it super easy.
you input the gear ratios of the transmission, final drive, and the rollout of the tires and it automatically fills in the values it needs in order to properly scale the MPH vs RPM in order for it to work.
racepak is easily the best when it comes to gauge technology right now.
even found a way to get the cluster to display the fuel level by hijacking the wires from the tank. it'll be displayed in percentage.
hmmm may be a way down the road upgrade for me!
Very cool, love how you spend time on such.
Your strut tower bar is missing! Oh and the car looks great!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Car looks great! Almost my twin, but in blue. What are you dropped with?
Brent Willyard wrote:Car looks great! Almost my twin, but in blue. What are you dropped with?
I'm on STD R3 coilovers. not sure how far I have it dropped...
it's more than low enough tho. I actually care about my roll couple =)
Always a fan of reading the next thing you come up with.
I love reading threads of people making things work, reminds me of... well, me.
Keep it up man!
forged motegi trak lite 16x7 et40 as winter wheels? sure why not. LSS are sold.
hey grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrL
Looks great man.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Dig it. You running spacers in the back? They look like theyre poking a lot. Front fitment looks great though.
Brian (TheSundownFire) wrote:Dig it. You running spacers in the back? They look like theyre poking a lot. Front fitment looks great though.
yea, still got the 1.5" space on each side, so 3" total in the rear.
if I reduced the negative camber up front, the fronts would poke a bit as well. The tires aren't rubbing in the rear, so I'm leaving it alone for now. However, I may bring them in by a 0.25-0.50" on either side, I'm still not sure yet.
