Looking at the top WHP lists it is the turbo of choice, but I'm not looking for 500whp because its my daily driver and I don't think my clutch would take that much. That is the reason I'm probably going with something a bit smaller, maybe a GT35R but .63 AR. Anyone know much about Precision or Borg Warner turbos?



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Shawn McKenzie wrote:Looking at the top WHP lists it is the turbo of choice, but I'm not looking for 500whp because its my daily driver and I don't think my clutch would take that much. That is the reason I'm probably going with something a bit smaller, maybe a GT35R but .63 AR. Anyone know much about Precision or Borg Warner turbos?

Once I dyno in the spring Ill let you know. Looking to hit 400 safely with my T3/T4, .57 Trim, Stage 3 Wheel, .63a/r turbo. Love the powerband throughout the entire pull.

Spent a lot of time today reading about the Borg Warner EFR series turbos and definitely like what I am seeing...




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Finally got the HO manifold installed on the car with a 58mm LD9 TB. Chopped up an eBay intake , not the prettiest but its functional. I also decided to remove the cruz control module because I never used it and it didn't work. Only problem is I couldn't get the IAT plug to reach the location on the HO manifold, I cut the harness cover but the wires are stuck on something. Can I extend the wires or does it run off resistance?





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Shawn McKenzie wrote:Looking at the top WHP lists it is the turbo of choice, but I'm not looking for 500whp because its my daily driver and I don't think my clutch would take that much. That is the reason I'm probably going with something a bit smaller, maybe a GT35R but .63 AR. Anyone know much about Precision or Borg Warner turbos?

A couple of people making 500+ hp the list had GT35R's or did you mean GT30R??






Jason
99 Z24

LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren

-Z Yaaaa- wrote: damn i swear HO manifold installs are hit and miss when it comes to working properly lol

I believe the variable here is the installer.


SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Help please! I took the manifold off and used gasket dressing in an attempt to seal things up and now it runs worse! It idles around 1500rpm, when I drive it and push in the clutch it goes to 3-4K rpm and after a few seconds drops back down to 1500 rpm. I really don't see how it could have a vacuum leak, is there some test I can do besides spraying starter fluid all over my engine bay? I really don't want to put the stock manifold back on and pay someone to do this.



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U can also spray a solution of soapy water through a spray bottle over it if it bubbles u got your leak..

Thanks for the suggestion Lance, pretty sure I ruled out a vacuum leak and narrowed it to a bad IAC. I have a new 2.3L IAC, going to try it tomorrow morning. A new development is the belt/pulley started to squeak and on the way home from work I got a low oil light, probably related but it was dark when I got home so can't see much until its light tomorrow.



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Pulley noise was caused by me forgetting about the vacuum line from AC compressor, pretty sure AC compressor is shot now because noise didn't stop once it got vacuum. This was also causing my idle issue because I had looped the two unused vacuum nipples on the TB together with a piece of tubing. It idles now but I have a new problem: when I lift off the throttle it climbs 300-1,000 rpm and holds for a couple seconds and then comes to idle, usually 1500 then to stock 950. I will be checking for flange vacuum leaks tomorrow but the only thing other things I can think of is a bad TPS or IAC. Anyone have suggestions on what to look for?



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IAC didn't change things so I pulled the TB off to change the TPS and there is oil all over the back of the TB and in the manifold! Only thing I can think of is its pulling it out of the air/oil separator. Am I supposed to attach that to the back of the manifold? Or can I run the air/oil separator hose to the large port on the TB and the break booster to the back of the manifold? I swear I ran an HO setup before and didn't have any of these issues...



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Still worried about the oil in the manifold but TPS was definitely broken, center section had no spring feeling, just flopping around in there. Still have yet to re-install the TB with new TPS but feel confident this should fix my weird throttle issues. As I said still worried about the oil in manifold but feel/hope all the other issues have been causing that.




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Shawn McKenzie wrote:Pulley noise was caused by me forgetting about the vacuum line from AC compressor, pretty sure AC compressor is shot now because noise didn't stop once it got vacuum. This was also causing my idle issue because I had looped the two unused vacuum nipples on the TB together with a piece of tubing. It idles now but I have a new problem: when I lift off the throttle it climbs 300-1,000 rpm and holds for a couple seconds and then comes to idle, usually 1500 then to stock 950. I will be checking for flange vacuum leaks tomorrow but the only thing other things I can think of is a bad TPS or IAC. Anyone have suggestions on what to look for?

ok what? our ac compressors dont use a vaccum source for anything lol. the compressor is turned on electronically.

that vaccum line you are seeing down by the ac compressor is actually for the EVAP system.

the oil in the manifold is from the pcv baffle. when you had this hooked up to the back of the intake manifold it was constantly seeing all the vaccum the engine could produce. on a stock setup this hose is ran to the air intake box above the TB. it still sees vaccum but its no where near the amount it sees if just on the intake manifold. the TB blade moving during driving dictates how much vaccum it sees. the more throttle, the more vaccum. so essentially, by having that hose hooked up to the intake it was sucking oil through BIGTIME. get that fixed for sure.

im assuming that nipple on the intake is for the brake booster. i cannot remember if the 2.3 tb has the big nipple for it or not. maybe some do and some do not? you cannot put the PCV hose onto the big nipple on your 2.4 tb because again, its the same issue as before... its seeing ALL of the engine vaccum at all times versus moderate and varrying with the tb plate moving. this hose MUST be placed in the intake piping somewhere to work properly. ideally, you'd get a catch can and NO oil would transfer back through your intake manifold and ultimately into your engine.

and again, what bolt setup are you using on that 2.4 tb? what tb gasket?

and lastly, get that tiny pcv hole on the head flange for the PCV system WORKING. i know you said you didnt use it before but im sorry, that is unacceptible. the pcv system was designed to work with it on the LD9. you need to get it working properly. all you gotta do is drill a hole in the intake flange, then tap the hole in the head for a nipple to screw into, put a hose on it to a vaccum source and viola, you have the system working properly as gm intended it to be.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, March 23, 2013 9:28 AM


It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.

Update:
About ready to give up now, replaced the TPS and the car got a wavering idle, would do from 1000 - 2000 rpm constantly. Figured I would replace the IAC when I got home from a 2-3 mile drive to the in-laws. When I neared home the throttle started acting like it did before replacing the TPS, holding rpm after I lifted off the gas. So I got home and put in the new IAC and it got worse. Only ran it for about 2 min but it started to idle over 2000 rpm and when I hit the throttle it wouldn't come down which sounds like a vacuum leak but why now when it didn't act like it before?

My "plan" right now is to pull the manifold off and if I can't find any reason to think it was leaking I am going to put the stocker back on. Then I will bite the bullet and pay someone to do it right.

Brad:
What ever the line from the AC compressor does, it would be a huge coincidence if the noise wasn't caused by it loosing that vacuum.

I would agree the oil in the manifold is from the pcv baffle seeing too much vacuum and it needs to be moved pre-TB. For reference the 2.3L TB I got from Ron had the large port blocked off so I assume the break booster line should go to the back of the manifold and the pcv baffle line needs to go pre-TB but I have no way to weld a fitting on the intake tube. I would also agree I need to keep the PCV system working properly with a fitting on the flange and I would run the other end to the PCV baffle cover, saw someone on here do that and seemed to work fine.

For like the 3rd time Brad I am using the two 2.3L TB bolts and a gasket I made using a sheet of rubber/fiber gasket material with a gasket dressing.



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lol "for the third time" i like that.

and yep, was going to suggest just putting the stocker back on for now. use the new TB, see how it runs etc.



It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.

The new TB (thanks Brad) with original IAC works great on the stock manifold which leaves a vacuum leak as the culprit in addition to ingesting a whole lot of oil through the PCV baffle wasn't helping things. On the head-spacer side it was stuck on so well I nearly broke the space trying to get it off the head so I don't think that was leaking. Probably was manifold - spacer side, I am going to check that flange's flatness(sp?) and I'm going to add the hole in the flange and spacer so the PCV system works with the HO manifold. As I was taking it off I noticed some metal shavings on the tip of the bolts, there is the possibility I was bottoming out the bolts in the head but I also marked up the manifold around the bolt heads because I wrenched them down so tight... I will be getting 5mm shorter bolts ones for the next attempt to ease my mind.

On a positive note the noise I thought was coming from the AC compressor has stopped, in hindsight think it was linked with the added vacuum I gave the PCV baffle and has me worried I ruined a bearing or something because I was getting an intermittent low oil light even though it shows full on the dip stick. It does seem to have a new (barely noticeable) noise when cold but it runs fine and goes away when its warm. Live and learn that I am a pretend mechanic and need to leave these things to the pros. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll update you when the manifold goes on properly and gets re-tuned. Which will hopefully happen while I am in Hawaii and wont need a car in the second week of April, still waiting to hear back from the shop on their availability for that though.





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did you use longer bolts for use with the HO manifold over the stocker? if not i dont see why you would need shorter?



It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.

If you just switched manifolds and nothing else, replaced everything you could have broken, then I don't see how it could be anything other than a vacuum leak considering the behavior. It could even be a torn injector o-ring or a cracked vacuum line somewhere.

Quote:

did you use longer bolts for use with the HO manifold over the stocker? if not i dont see why you would need shorter?

I used longer studs (60mm) and longer bolts (50mm) after reading a post on here, although they said bolts could be 45 or 50mm. The stocker bolts looked like they would have enough engagement and I will probably use them or 45mm long ones next time.

Quote:

If you just switched manifolds and nothing else, replaced everything you could have broken, then I don't see how it could be anything other than a vacuum leak considering the behavior. It could even be a torn injector o-ring or a cracked vacuum line somewhere.

I would agree my problems were most likely from a vacuum leak, after I replaced the broken TPS. After examining the gaskets closer it looks like they had a solid seal around every port which has lead me to wonder how much vacuum I was getting from the PCV hose and I'm leaning towards that being my "vacuum leak". In my mind it explains why spraying starter fluid around the flanges didn't work and its erratic behavior is explained as the oil warmed up.



I'm still worried about this new noise and am praying I didn't ruin a bearing by applying too much vacuum to the crankcase and starving something of oil. Definitely sounds likes its coming from the pulley side, thoughts on me frying a seal or something related to the crank pulley or that area? At this point its just a noise, doesn't run differently, so I am left hoping my mistake didn't ruin the freshly built motor I spent years preparing for.





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Ho Mani yuck, n/a will not do better then the lo Mani, I ran both I'll stay with lo until deciding on boost or not. And seems like a lot to hook up lol, I removed most of the lines to GB still runs great, oil/air seperator I ran a vent tube with filter on it. Oval line does not really need to be hooked up, nor will it effect running, or anything else. I have ran through different methods of this setup to find what works. But nice car none the less my Mani is a slut so pant looks like @!#$


"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

Its been a while so thought I would make an update. SInce it looks like I didn't do any noticeable damage the last time I butchered the install attempt I got off my lazy ass and ordered the parts to make the HO manifold run properly (port in the head and everything). The valvetrain noise that developed a few weeks ago hasn't come back after an oil change (about 1700 miles on the new motor) and the other vibration noise seems to have been the throttle cable on the strut tower bar, which has been temporarily fixed and won't be a problem with the HO install.

On the plus side the combination of my Traklites fitted with Hankook V12 EVO's and the LSD means I can't break them loose, first corner I took hard resulted in me nearly slamming my head into the window the car gripped so hard, love it. Hopefully this means it will handle the 200+ hp increase from the turbo.

List of things to get done:
1. Install Powerslot rotors, Hawk pads and SS lines for the front. For the rear Mr. Quick's disc conversion, standard SRT4 rotors with premium pads and SS line.
2. HO manifold install
3. Retune, going to miss my back massage at idle.
4. Oil Pressure and AFR A-pillare gauges (depending on funds/time)



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awesome man. super stoked the noise went away. why cant i get that lucky?! LOL



M45/OS crank/2.4 snout. It's nice to be injected but I love being blown!

Hey Shawn, if you haven't decided on a turbo yet, I'm selling the original turbo i purchased for my build, but never used. It's a Borg Warner S200SX RS50. specs are:

Compressor: -inducer 50mm; -exducer 71mm Extended Tip
Turbine: -exducer 61.5mm; -inducer 69.5mm Bullseyepower SS Exhaust Housing A/R 0.55

Max PSI - 28
Max HP rating: 410whp

If you're interested, let me know. Good Luck with the build, lookin good already N/A!

I'm interested if the price is right and if it will work on at T3 manifold. I'll check out your build thread later today for pics, or post them if you want.



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Definitely interested in the turbo Thrice, post or PM me the price.

Went to Import Face-Off this weekend, combined with figuring out all the little things that have been bugging me about the car, I found a new drive to get the turbo setup done. As soon as the weather clears up for a few days so I can ride my motorcycle to work so incase I botch the install I don't have to drive the car, the HO manifold will go on and finally get re-tuned.

On another note how well do phenolic spacers hold up to boost? I have another option for an intake manifold but have been wondering if its even needed.



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