The trans bolts can be a pain.

I like to unbolt the mounts from the trans and bolt them on the car and then get bolt the mounts to the trans after.

Nice work buddy!

EDIT: ^It's a link!


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, September 30, 2013 10:49 AM


"In Oldskool we trust"

I had the same problem. I actually had the rear tranny bracket/mount attached to the chassis and the drivers side tranny bracket attached to the engine. It wasn't too bad, but it still took too many hours.
I want a set of those headlights.....




Did you say my car looks slow??

Snowman wrote:Lol you that loose?

Well played, sir.



"In Oldskool we trust"

Yellow that's hilarious..I almost want to watch SuperBad again haha.

yeah I had the mounts bolted in finger tight enough to maneuver them as needed. The problem is the engine/tranny wasn't leveling properly to match them up, the front needed to go up a lot and rear down. So I removed them, mounted the to the trans while it was all in the car, the finessed the bolts through eventually. You just have to sit back, relax a few times, and cant be afraid to shove the motor/tranny around a bit. I did a lot of wiggling and even though it doesn't appear to move, it makes a difference.

Im going to go clean the garage as best I can right now as Im done with the house and getting things ready for my mom to fly in tonight. Probably wont get much done on the car but this week Ill be doing it since, well...Im now unemployed and I have the time haha.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

lol... Did you know that McLovin was my nickname in high school a few years ago?

yeah that patience was wearing off after a couple of hours.





Did you say my car looks slow??

Yeah ive actually got a McLovin drivers license that I keep in my wallet lol


And just an update. I had jury duty yesterday (Wednesday) and did some things around the house. Parents are back in town for good this time and I had to put up some fences for their dog and do some stuff around the house.
But I got the header and exhaust all bolted up nice and good. All the belt drive accessories are bolted in as well as the transmission cables and stuff. Brake booster/lines all set.

Tomorrow (today) I should be able to get everything hooked up and get the manifold and blower back on. Ill toss the axles back in and get the car hopefully ready to drop on the ground for the first time since May...For now Im going to eliminate the catch can until I can get a better quality one that's properly baffled. Im going to probably use the battery in its stock location for now as well and just get the car running.

To do list after its back together: make a block off plate for the exhaust cam, buy the -10AN o-ring fitting for the oil cooler adapter and loop it off. Then fill her with fluids, bleed the clutch, and see what happens.... O.o


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

alright. I got the axles back in, all the accessories and harness plugged back up. just the little things (intake manifold, blower, intake tubing, throttle body, etc). those are super quick and easy.

But Im about to go buy the fluids I need. Im guessing form what Ive read the 2.0L LSJ can use 5w-30 synthetic, the same Mobil 1 I used for my 2.2L L61. The transmission (F23) fluid is a dexron 3 1.8qts (so almost 2 full quarts).
The part I have not done on these yet is the bleeding of the clutch. I read about a 'reverse bleeding' where I can do this fairly quickly and by myself...but when I tried looking up spyderwizard or 'reverse bleeding' im not finding the article.
Does anyone have that information?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Clicky Skip to 3:25.

Basically you open the bleeder and pump the fluid in from there. That way it fills from the bottom up and pushes the air right out the top.

EDIT: Buy some good DOT 4 fluid too, you won't regret it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 03, 2013 5:40 PM


"In Oldskool we trust"

well im basically done.
Ive gotten the belt on even. What I have to do is get underneath, remove the liner in the wheel well, and I can undo 3 of the 4 bolts holding the water pump cover on, which holds my cps bracket set up. barely squeeze the belt on, and im good.
I have the intake manifold on, coolant lines, and even the oil cooler adapter is looped off thanks to a visit to a local hose shop.
ive got the suspension all done and bolted up. end links, ball joints, tie rods, everything is good. including the new cross slotted/drilled rotors, looks good!

Im stuck on just the exhaust cam block off plate. Going to try to make it now. I just don't know if I can simply block it off or if I need to do it a certain way. if you look at the current sensor and the rubber gasket for it, theres a hole at the bottom of the exhaust cam housing. I don't know if that needs to be open or what. I think Im going to make a block off plate from 1/16 or 1/8th steel plating that I made the base of the CPS set up off of, then use some gasket maker that I used on my oil pan.

if I can get that done, im done. I have all the fluids, even picked up my BKR7EIX plugs today. So the block off plate is my last job and it shouldn't take too long as it doesn't need to be anything special!


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

oh and yellow thanks, ill check that out later. and ill get pics up later too once im done for the night.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

well, all I have left is bleed the clutch tomorrow and then fill the fluids up, pop in the new spark plugs, and fire her up.... O.o








04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Awesome work man, can't wait for that first start up!



"In Oldskool we trust"

Make a start up video! Just in case something blows up! I like it when something is blown.... up!




Did you say my car looks slow??

lol Im with you.... I just need prove its running haha. Even for 5 seconds before the BOOM!
I am going to hit up auto zone real quick to grab a grease can to do the reverse bleeding for the clutch. then when Im done, I can fill her up with fresh fluids and do a quick start. Then do a compression test and then watch for leaks. I can call my tuner if it starts okay.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Let it run a little before the compression check. Like 500 miles or so. Also at first startup hold it at 2 grand for a minute to get the oil moving.



"In Oldskool we trust"

cranks but wont start.
ive checked all fuses/relays.
fuel pump is priming.
starter is good, its cranking over.
battery is at full power.
everything appears hooked up correctly and nothing seems to be unplugged (checked 3 times).
no THEFT light on the dash, so shouldn't be the passlock issue.

not sure whats up..but she looks good!

the only thing I can think of off the top of my head is the coil pack is pressed down but not far enough..? the LSJ cover is obviously holding it down but who knows, maybe its not getting spark because the boots are not properly contacting the plug ends.

suggestions?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Is the coil pack plugged in? What about re new crank sensor? You didn't get the wires crossed did you?

I guess its possible the CPS wiring isn't connecting properly but I didn't cross the wires. Im pretty sure. And I used a slightly larger gauge but they were twisted quite a bit, then soldered, then taped, ziptied, heat shrinked, etc.
if it were the CPS, would it still crank then run badly or just not turn over at all except crank?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

blu04DD wrote:I guess its possible the CPS wiring isn't connecting properly but I didn't cross the wires. Im pretty sure. And I used a slightly larger gauge but they were twisted quite a bit, then soldered, then taped, ziptied, heat shrinked, etc.
if it were the CPS, would it still crank then run badly or just not turn over at all except crank?

If it were the cps it would do exactly what it's doing. Crank but not fire up. Maybe check that wiring. Could you do the theft relearn anyway just in case?



"In Oldskool we trust"

I removed the cps wiring. Im going to remove the 2 hours worth of work I did on it and inspect it... :/
I think snow might be correct yet again. but even if the wires are crossed, wouldn't it still work since it just submits a current or pulse to the wheel?

ive got it out like I said...ill check it. I can try a relearn too if this doesn't work...but the last time it was that (when I first installed my supercharger) it said 'theft' on the dash and that was obvious. this time theres no codes and no flashing codes


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

When I did my computer swap I mixed up the cps wiring and it just cranked and cranked.

well ive got it apart now and exposed to see the crimped areas. now the yellow wire on one end is going to the yellow wire on the other end. and vise for the purple wire. would using larger gauge affect it? maybe my solders were bad. I just twisted them then soldered, then heat shrinked, taped, zip tied.

Im trying to see what setting to have my multimeter on so I can test 'current'. basically to make sure current gets from one end of the sensor to the other along the same wire.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Maybe try switching them? Lol just an idea

the cps sensor is it from the l61 or the lsj ?


if that's good then you may just have to let it crank a lot. The 2.4 PCM I have cranked a lot before it actually started, and now it fires immediately with the key?

well the wires have continuity, purple to purple, yellow to yellow. So at least that is good.
the cps is the original one from the L61. I just cut it and spliced in about 2 more feet to extend it.

I can pull the plugs to see if they are wet with fuel maybe...to verify the fuel isn't the issue.
I can try to keep cranking it but Ive done it about 10 - 15 times now and even holding it I don't want to kill the battery.
I can almost hear an attempt to fire or something where 'crank,crank,crank,pffff, crank crank, crank, crank, pff' . no its not queefing haha... its like you can hear it try to fire or something. could just be my imagination though.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.