I like that sensor bracket, very nice way to do that.
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) wrote:blu04DD wrote:So its the stock Crank pulley period...regardless of where you put the sensor, the stock wheel will not allow the trigger wheel to seat flushed as you tighten it down. And you're already stealing threads from the intended seat location of the bolt, so with a spacer/washer plus the trigger wheel, youre taking the bolt out even further. Im guessing youd want a generous amount of red thread locker on there...
So I either shim it out or buy an aftermarket pulley..... I remember Evil had mentioned that he moved the sensor location (lower/left of the pulley) because they had a stock pulley. What would a stock pulley have to do with relocating the sensor if it would be an issue no matter where you mounted the sensor?
every install is different.
it depends on how the owner wants to do it.
the only for-a-fact issue is the trigger ring won't sit flush on the stock L61 pulley.
you can do what newt said, and put washers behind it so it has a stand-off from the surface of the crank pulley, or buy an aftermarket lightweight pulley like I did (btw I am s/c now and converted to 6 rib so the pulley in these pictures is for sale)
positioning of the sensor is wherever you want it, relative to your orientation of the trigger ring. my sensor is up high, so my ring might not be oriented the same way as newt's or oldskool's was, or how phil's was, etc
Matt was mentioning how unless I got an aftermarket damper, mounting it where you did is not an option. Im just curious as to why if the issue is the wheel and not the location. I figured maybe it had something to do with clearance issues as the sensor gets pretty close to the frame and shimming it out would put it very close to the frame. But lower where he put it down it might have more clearance.
I had initially wanted to convert to a full 6rib. Every pulley i have is 6 ribs except the A/C compressor (I have the LSJ crank so obviously thats 6 ribs now). I would have to just get an LSJ A/C compressor and Id be full 6rib which obviously has its benefits (more belt surface and no more cutting belts).
Is your pulley stock size just lighter?
So Ive got to decide...I could run your bracket set up and just shim the trigger wheel out slightly with proper sized washers, and not even have to worry about it. Or I could buy an aftermarket crank and not shim..but either way I should be able to use the same set up from the waterpump cover. My friend and I can rig that up fairly quickly I think, so if thats the case either way it sounds like I can go with that location. I like it because its up out of the way.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
btw...since you are getting rid of your aftermarket one...Im guessing you are going with a stock LSJ crank pulley? If so, are you just going to shim it like newt said and be done?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:btw...since you are getting rid of your aftermarket one...Im guessing you are going with a stock LSJ crank pulley? If so, are you just going to shim it like newt said and be done?
I wish I had pictures of this before I installed but
the LSJ pulley is flat on the surface, so the issue with the trigger ring spoke interferance is a non-issue.
this only happens with the L61 crank pullies.
you'll be fine.
I have a complete OEM LSJ pulley setup right now, 2.8" sc pulley and a stage 2 belt.
the only thing I had to do was space the sensor out because the 6 rib pullies are a little wider.
you'll be fine with the LSJ crank pulley. you can orient the trigger ring however you want.
you only run into issue with the sensor mounted up in the area I located mine, and with a factory L61 crank pulley. that's the only condition where it becomes a problem.
Interesting, I did not know the stock LSJ pulley was flat. My LK9 pulley has a curved face like the L61's, so I assumed they all were.
This is good news!
I can start working on the bracket today then after work. I was going to say because when I was looking at my pulley it didnt appear to be curved at all in the center, but i didnt dare question the jbody gods
Matt, its okay to be wrong once...everything else you've helped me with so far has been spot on
one thing i do want to be verify is before actually tightening down the crank pulley bolt, which notch the CPS is supposed to point at with the engine at TDC. Matt i believe you said the notch before the double notches, correct? Ill go buy the paint and try to get the CPS and everything done by this weekend so the engine can be dropped in. Everything else is done and just a few small things (exhaust cam block off, NPT fittings to loop the oil cooler adapter, cam cover modification to allow the ICM to fit in there (like PJ did), and I think I'm golden!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, September 18, 2013 5:46 AM
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:This is good news!
I can start working on the bracket today then after work. I was going to say because when I was looking at my pulley it didnt appear to be curved at all in the center, but i didnt dare question the jbody gods
Matt, its okay to be wrong once...everything else you've helped me with so far has been spot on
one thing i do want to be verify is before actually tightening down the crank pulley bolt, which notch the CPS is supposed to point at with the engine at TDC. Matt i believe you said the notch before the double notches, correct? Ill go buy the paint and try to get the CPS and everything done by this weekend so the engine can be dropped in. Everything else is done and just a few small things (exhaust cam block off, NPT fittings to loop the oil cooler adapter, cam cover modification to allow the ICM to fit in there (like PJ did), and I think I'm golden!
to my understanding, on 4 cylinder applications the notches do not coincide with TDC ever.
I lined mine up by using my 2.2 as a reference point.
installed my bracket and VR sensor, and the trigger ring on the 2.2
removed the factory 2.2 sensor
rotated the engine to the reference tooth, and centered the HIGH SPOT inbetween the two of them in the stock VR sensor hole
oriented the trigger ring and external sensor to be in the same exact spot
rotate the engine to the next reference tooth in the stock VR window. double check the external setup matches up.
scribe the pulley or somehow mark it so the external trigger will line up after disassembly
swap on to the other ecotec
done.
that's how I did it, and it works like a charm.
Well Im to the point where I just gotta get the TW in the right spot and I can install it all on the LSJ..right now its all drilled/mounted to the L61 timing cover in my kitchen. Im just hoping its not sticking out too far and will all fit.
Also, what is the best distance the sensor should be from the trigger wheel's edge? Keep in mind the magnet also might pick up the Crank pulley which could possibly impact the magnets readings..is that likely?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
*edit - random beer rants lol
So Im done with my CPS bracket set up. Pics in my build thread.
If my L61 is sort of on the ground and not easily moved and messed with currently (my LSJ is on the hoist and ready to go into the car)...is there any other way to figure out how to position my Trigger Wheel before I bolt down the crank bolt?
I have the oil cooler adapter from Unique Fabrications (I picked up his last one, he wont make any more due to lack of interest). But I need to buy two 90* fittings and just loop it off for now. Ill look into an external cooler once my car is back up and running. Whats the best source for the fittings (Id like the anodized blue ones) and to be able to make a really short custom length line between the two. I think they are 1/2" NPT fittings.
I also bought an Aeromotive AFPR. do you have any more detail on how you did your fuel rail? Ill rig up one and tap it using a spare then just swap them out when Im ready to install it.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, September 22, 2013 12:18 PM
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Nevermind...lol
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, September 22, 2013 7:22 AM
