This car still runs the street daily
lol go to becauseracecar.com then yull get it
Interior stripped out because race car. lol
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
its one of those stupid interwebz things...
racecar spelled backwards is racecar.... because racecar
~DVST8R~ aka ThaCaviKid
Nitrous is like wanting to have sex with a hot chick that has an STD... you wanna hit it,
but you are afraid of the consequences
haha JBO the voice of reason.
New cams were always in the work for next year, but it does make sense to get the new cams in and then dyno the thing.
Biggest problem is 91 octane is the highest grade of gas I can get where I live, we are supposed to get a 94 pump but I don't know if that is happening anymore.
Looks like its back to desktop dyno to work on some cam specs.
I still have to keep it somewhat streetable, I still drive this car 5-6 hours one way to the drag strip, so I have to consider that.
Anyone know if Comp grinds their cams from blanks or regrinds stock cams? I meant to measure the base circle on my comp cams vs. the stock ones, but I forgot about it before putting my motor together.
The GMR cams can be had super cheap, but I know the base circle is small on those and requires adjustable lash adjusters to make them work.
Well I know you can get blanks, at least billet blanks from europe. They're expensive because they're billet. At worse there's places that can re-grind cams and keep the base circle stock by adding material onto the cam.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
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WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
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I'd love to get the specs on those fancy Europe cams, Ben has a set...but its a closely guarded secret....and I don't blame him.
I would give Comp a call directly and see what they can do for you. Many times you can give a cam company your engine specs and your desired powerband and they can come up with something for you.
As for 91, I wouldn't worry about that TOO much, since with more aggressive cams you actually wind up with less running compression and thus are less prone to knock. I've seen cars come stock with higher compression motors than the LE5/L61 hybrid and still manage to run on 87...
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
he he he
YES i do have a set of those europe cams
.. and YES they have WAY more duration and a bit more lift than those Comp Stage 3s.
My setup just to remind ya: GM P&P L61 head, L61 Block, LE5 crank, L61 Rods, Europe Cams, Ferrea Springs, Undercut SS Valves, Wiesco Custom Pistons, Tuned "bird catcher" intake, Custom Tuned Exaust, Built 4t453 tranny, etc etc
well for most of you know my engine blew up on the dyno at 9100 rpms, and in 2nd gear only 8000 rpms it did aprox 180whp on a mustang dyno, yes i said 2nd gear .. no 3rd gear recorded runs
im saying all of this not to get your hopes up but because my cavy will prob sit a few more years cuz .. i just went out and bought me a NEW 2011 Chevrolet Silverado instead
but im still here
.. i need a sponsor
-Ben
Sell me your head Ben!
Can't wait to get my Hybrid build going, plus a 57 Trim Turbo
ill be ur sponsor in heart, ben!
Most reputable cam companies have software specifically for making cams. You give them your engine specs and the power band wanted. They plug in the numbers and out comes cam specs.
A lot of "custom" camaren'tnt custom, they use profiles from other engines which keeps them from having to cut a new profiler each time.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Ben Wenzel Jr wrote:he he he
YES i do have a set of those europe cams .. and YES they have WAY more duration and a bit more lift than those Comp Stage 3s.
My setup just to remind ya: GM P&P L61 head, L61 Block, LE5 crank, L61 Rods, Europe Cams, Ferrea Springs, Undercut SS Valves, Wiesco Custom Pistons, Tuned "bird catcher" intake, Custom Tuned Exaust, Built 4t453 tranny, etc etc
well for most of you know my engine blew up on the dyno at 9100 rpms, and in 2nd gear only 8000 rpms it did aprox 180whp on a mustang dyno, yes i said 2nd gear .. no 3rd gear recorded runs
im saying all of this not to get your hopes up but because my cavy will prob sit a few more years cuz .. i just went out and bought me a NEW 2011 Chevrolet Silverado instead
but im still here .. i need a sponsor
-Ben
Is your GM P&P cylinder head as it came from GM? From what I've read it is just a simple CNC in the intake ports and thats it, I've read it doesn't flow the greatest. If thats the case I wouldn't be suprised if that head is holding you back....just some food for thought.
Was the rods in the bottom end stock or aftermarket? I'd be curious to know what ended up letting go.
I will have to do some more reading and playing around with desktop dyno to see what I can do for cams. Then call Comp and see what they can do to help me out.
I will figure this out.
to my knowledge it let go due to poor oil pressure. it was not a part failure due to fatique,etc....
Oil cavitation I take it? I always wondered at what RPM that would start to happen...
Mine still makes 100+psi at anything over 5500rpm all the way to 7500rpm (my gauge only goes to 100psi and it barries the neddle), I am taking my referance pre oil filter tho.
i think i remember ben saying he thought it was sucking the pan dry or something like that...
he thought the oil gauge was messed up cuz it went to zero at 8000 rpm or something lol i dont remember exactly.
ben, wuryat man?
