Wrench Monkey wrote:I agree 100% on NOT sidestepping the clutch. I "slip" mine out when i launch as well.
I don't. I launch at 3500RPM, no slipping of the clutch, but I do slighly engage the clutch, so it is not too much shock. I do not feel it is good to slip a clutch and more so to aftermarket clutches.. I'm on styock axles at 90k, and about 180 track passes.
FU Tuning
i launch mine like a AWD car.
let the clutch do all the work......
134K on my stock axles.....
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
John Higgins wrote:Wrench Monkey wrote:I agree 100% on NOT sidestepping the clutch. I "slip" mine out when i launch as well.
I don't. I launch at 3500RPM, no slipping of the clutch, but I do slighly engage the clutch, so it is not too much shock. I do not feel it is good to slip a clutch and more so to aftermarket clutches.. I'm on styock axles at 90k, and about 180 track passes.
So you do slip it.... Slightly engaging the clutch as in not letting the pedal out all the way is slipping it.
The 1 time out of my 25-30 runs at the track that i sidestepped the axle broke at the line no hop it just broke.
Heres a better way to explain how i launch. I start engaging the clutch like slowly letting it out.... its 100% engaged by the 60ft and probably in the first 10 feet i just never was focused on how long it takes me to let out the clutch.
Wrench Monkey wrote:John Higgins wrote:Wrench Monkey wrote:I agree 100% on NOT sidestepping the clutch. I "slip" mine out when i launch as well.
I don't. I launch at 3500RPM, no slipping of the clutch, but I do slighly engage the clutch, so it is not too much shock. I do not feel it is good to slip a clutch and more so to aftermarket clutches.. I'm on styock axles at 90k, and about 180 track passes.
So you do slip it.... Slightly engaging the clutch as in not letting the pedal out all the way is slipping it.
The 1 time out of my 25-30 runs at the track that i sidestepped the axle broke at the line no hop it just broke.
Heres a better way to explain how i launch. I start engaging the clutch like slowly letting it out.... its 100% engaged by the 60ft and probably in the first 10 feet i just never was focused on how long it takes me to let out the clutch.
I do not consider what I do slipping the clutch. Yes I engage it to where it wants to pull then slightly go back in so it does not move, but on the edge of pulling the car forward, light goes green I let off all the way. I have tried slipping the stage 2 clutch (practice on the street, really is not possible.
FU Tuning
For what it's worth...since I am by no means a "skilled" racer...I dump my clutch at 3500 rpms and I have not had a problem with wheel hop. Car runs a 14.2 and I'm fairly consistant with the lights and my time (average about 14.2 - 14.6)
I have a stage III SPEC and it's dang near impossible to "slip" it...there might be 1 inch of grab at the very top...just too little room (or I don't have the skills) to slip my clutch!
I've had about 100 passes on my clutch with no problems for it or the axles. I run on all-season radials too...never tried sticky street tires or DRs. Buying some sticky street tires this spring though to see if I can crack the 13s.
Interesting conversation though....I've enjoyed reading it! Thanks for the input from the more experienced racers out there!
Eh...old man with a Corvette now...it was bound to happen sooner rather than later right?
well since this is kinda on the same idea.. what size is the bolt holding the drive shaft in? 20mm?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
John Higgins wrote:Wrench Monkey wrote:John Higgins wrote:Wrench Monkey wrote:I agree 100% on NOT sidestepping the clutch. I "slip" mine out when i launch as well.
I don't. I launch at 3500RPM, no slipping of the clutch, but I do slighly engage the clutch, so it is not too much shock. I do not feel it is good to slip a clutch and more so to aftermarket clutches.. I'm on styock axles at 90k, and about 180 track passes.
So you do slip it.... Slightly engaging the clutch as in not letting the pedal out all the way is slipping it.
The 1 time out of my 25-30 runs at the track that i sidestepped the axle broke at the line no hop it just broke.
Heres a better way to explain how i launch. I start engaging the clutch like slowly letting it out.... its 100% engaged by the 60ft and probably in the first 10 feet i just never was focused on how long it takes me to let out the clutch.
I do not consider what I do slipping the clutch. Yes I engage it to where it wants to pull then slightly go back in so it does not move, but on the edge of pulling the car forward, light goes green I let off all the way. I have tried slipping the stage 2 clutch (practice on the street, really is not possible.
Gotcha. Thats the same way i do it.
Just couldnt find a good way to explain it.
Josh F wrote:well since this is kinda on the same idea.. what size is the bolt holding the drive shaft in? 20mm?
If I remember right, I believe its a 32mm
yes 32mm or 34 i cant remember i just remember having to buy a socket that size to replace my hub assembly
I am not a skilled driver either so I cheat a little bit. I do what friends have called the civic launch.
I shallow stage the beams(stop the second the 2nd light turns on)
I start at about 2500rpm start to slip the clutch to get the car in motion at the second yellow. while verly lighly increasing throttle.
once the clutch is just about fully engaged I stab it back to the floor and quickly dump while flooring the throttle.
I come back full boost and clutch completely engaged. That was when I still had the factory clutch.
I will be changing that next season though. Now I have a lightened flywheel and spec stage 3. With the stronger clutch I can launch a little harder.
Darryn
2004 Cavalier coupe, 5 speed, White
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This is not intended to be insulting to anyone, but you guys that are pretty much dumping the clutch do not have loads of power or slicks and youre launching at only 3500 rpm. And trust me, those stage 2 and stage 3 clutches can be slipped, because I can still slip the multidisc clutch we use. In high powered cars, dumping the clutch is suicide to more than just the axles. Can you imagine the damage done when launching at 6500 rpm, with slicks and a 600 hp car if the clutch was just sidestepped? I know what happens, you break a stage 5 axle and damage the diff, did it myself lol.
I'll explain my method for launching.
I also shallow stage my car like Darryn. I do this so I can find the friction point during the 2nd amber to move the car slightly. The second I see the second yellow, I slam the brake, and hold down the line lock for the rear wheels which also engages the two step. I then go full throttle to about 6500 rpm. When I do decide to fully move the car, I slightly engage the clutch to get the car moving then come out of the throttle slightly and fully engage the clutch then get back into the throttle as hard as possible. From there it's all throttle control.
The overall goal is to get that clutch out as fast as possible. Easier said than done. It's all about a feel for the car and preventing the wheel spin and wheel hop. Generally speaking, being more aggressive is safer on axles because you just spin tires as opposed to bog the car and strain the driveline.
Street-Legal 2003 Sunfire 10.58 @ 139 MPH
Thanks to those with the helpfull hints, i haven't actually run any of my setups on the track (or even hard) so these tips will be great when or if i do hit the track this year sometime, as i plan to do.
_
Now with northstar V8, IRS, 20's n 22's
Taetsch Z-24 wrote:i launch mine like a AWD car.
let the clutch do all the work......
134K on my stock axles.....
Chris
yeah and now look, a dumb@!#$ gets a hold of it and breaks one the 3rd day
what would someone suggest a part flying out from under the car would be?(remember this car has the jackshaft mod) I was surprised it broke when it did, easy on the trottle and no boost....just slowly getting up to highway speed...
very informative, i was worried about my axles this year lol, i guess ill keep launching like i did at the end of last year; slip the clutch a little off the line then full throttle once its fully engaged. still worried when i shift into 2nd if the shock will be too much, but i could probably slip it a little into 2nd too eh?
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
i think i'm the only person who broke an axle NOT launching the car... mine was on the 1-2 shift
My drivers axle sheared inside the diff at the very end of my tire warm up. I figured if it eve went it would happen during a launch, not warm up. Needless to say I still havent fixed the trans or replaced the axles.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - APU wrote:i think i'm the only person who broke an axle NOT launching the car... mine was on the 1-2 shift
thats why i was worried about the 1-2 shift lol. i bought some new axles, pickin em up on tuesday. got em from car quest, life time warranty woot. never hurts to have some spare axles eh
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
lol idk what axles we are breaking but i just left for work, and now im back home cuz the car made it 2 blocks then at a stop sign i took off and spun on ice it moved 10 feet and nope... so im hoping axle *crosses fingers* .... downside, its -17° right now up here in MN
Yeah, trying to do anything outside in Northern MN these days sucks a$$!
My recent problem was that the bolt that holds the mount for the jack shaft sheared off....now that was a trick to get the old bolt out...
I know this is an old post, but it's getting warmer out and I got to the track last night. Did a few runs on my 18's and broke three axles since the motor/trans swap. (Needless to say, I was scared for my axles.) All three of these axles have been drivers side axles, Naturally I was spinning and hopping all over the place last night. I managed to land a 14.4 with a 2.4 sec 60 foot as my best, but I was really wondering if anyone has started putting in stronger axles? These stage 1-5 axles, are they worth getting? Who makes them, who has them, etc? Looking for some feedback, because as it is, before I put slicks on and "launch" my car, I'm building axle-shatter shields. I had one cup shatter and the axle smashed a hole in the transmission late last year.
Dustin Trimble wrote:These stage 1-5 axles, are they worth getting?
not if you're
Quote:
spinning and hopping all over the place last night
that's called driver error.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
ur from iowa? where abouts?
driveshaftshop.com
Call it what you want, but it's not going to be easy to hook up on 235/40/18 falken azenis(especially heavily used ones at that) at the strip, especially on a cold night. Not to mention it's the first time I've been at the track with the new setup, I still have alot of things to get used to. Thanks for your input though.
zyaa, I'm from Muscatine. And thanks for the useful information
btw, best pass was
60' 2.269
1/8 mile 9.393
1/4 mile 14.48
I know it's got more in it, obviously. Spinning in my 1-2 shift and 2-3. Plans for the summer involve an LSD, among other things.
well just remember, a $90 axle is cheaper to replace and easier than a transmission... not to mention my stock axles have held up to 110K.... You make the axles stronger, something else will give...
Probably getting rid of those 18's at the track would help alot
