To those who are using the emanage with the reflash.....what are u guys using for settings for the x/y axis, if u are not using the greddy pressure sensor? just setting it as pressure sensor? Im trying to eliminate a few possibilities of what the problem could be with a buddies car. He did a hole bunch of work over the winter, so we are trying to find a place to start lookin. Pretty sure its either Emanage or MSD related.
Just curious if u guys run the reflash + emanage without the Greddy pressure sensor without probs.
taken from the emanage book...
"greddy pressure sensor can be used for the scale of each map table. This is used when the factory system exceeds the air flow meter or Map sensor capacity. so with the reflash it should be fine up to 15lbs without the pressure sensor.
i have no idea why it just stalls out though
What problems are you having?
What size injectors?
You can run up to 14.7psi of boost before you need the pressure sensor, I so not even have one yet as I am still at the 11-12psi mark.
What map are you referring to?
If it is the A/R map, TP starts at 35% and rpms start at 2000 up to 6200.
Need more info and I can help you get a BASE map made up.
Later,
Jeff
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2000 Turbocharged Silver Z24 5spd
Cardomain Site
im running 440cc injectors, it will idle fine for a while (rich but ok) the sometimes it will just stall the a/f doesn't change on the wideband, it just dies. and sometimes when i tap the gas everything will be normal, other times the idle will bounce up and down after. and having trouble pulling the right amount of fuel, ill i will get it running so it seems good, then ill shut the car off restart it and it will run lean or way to rich again, just cant get it to run descent..
it shouldnt be a problem without the pressure sensor....i was just trying to see if others have had success doing it that way. That shouldnt be the problem as we arent even using that map yet anyway. the tps is working because it is giving us a reading in the real time, and the map.
If its leaned right out, it may still run rich...or it may run lean.....dam thing cant make up its mind.
Kane5576 wrote:What problems are you having?
What size injectors?
You can run up to 14.7psi of boost before you need the pressure sensor, I so not even have one yet as I am still at the 11-12psi mark.
What map are you referring to?
If it is the A/R map, TP starts at 35% and rpms start at 2000 up to 6200.
Need more info and I can help you get a BASE map made up.
Later,
Jeff
i remember reading somewere that you were having issues with you car stalling at idle with the 440's what did you do to fix that?
without the reflash i'm running 550cc's succussfully.
with a big conversion factor on the e-manage AND a base fuel pressure of only 22 psi.
________________________________________________
...bone stock
after bypassing the emanage, got the car to start and run on the 440's....runs good....extremely rich, but surprisingly responsive
russ weisgarber wrote:after bypassing the emanage, got the car to start and run on the 440's....runs good....extremely rich, but surprisingly responsive
well it did.. until it warms up aparently, then it starts doing the same thing, bogging, missfires, stalls
got a couple of questions, what should the map be at idle (2bar map) i also have a 330ohm resistor in there
and whats the firing order for the 2.4, i think its 1-4-3-2 but not posative.
i don't even know were to start looking for the problem, anyone any got any suggestions aside from gasoline and matches cause thats the only thing i can come up with right now
here is a list of stuff that i have done since the last time the car ran..
* Custom T3/T04E Stage 2 Turbo
* PLX M300 Wide band o2
* 3" Exhaust with Electric dump
* Tial 38mm Waste Gate
* HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve
* 440cc injectors
* Greddy Emanage
* GM SC reflash
* 2 bar map sensor
* msd dis2
* msd interface modules
* msd coil packs
* msd 8.5mm plug wires
* oil cooler
* Trans cooler
* Relocated battery to the trunk
* Moroso Battery box
* Optima Red Top battery
im honestly stumped as to how to get this freakin thing running........normally i can figure this stuff out by process of elimination....but we've done alot, and still no go.
sooooo.... no one has any idea's?
i have spent the last 3 days doing nothing but working on this @!#$ thing and im still no farther ahead, still does the same thing!!!!
we have bypassed the emanage, bypassed the msd and it still does it
runs fine until it has warmed right up to temature, then all the sudden it starts pulling fuel out and running leaner, and then all the sudden it just shuts off.......
i used to keep getting injector 3 and 4 (far left) clips switched up, maybe something is similar.
test your older injectors and see if they are doing the same thing as the 440's, that way you can tell if the clips are wired up correctly. at the least you'll see if its directly related to the injectors or something was switched around prior to those 440's going in
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...bone stock
doble checked all the wiring right from the computer to the emanage to the injector clips everything seems fine.
putting my factory injectors back in is a pita since i had to rewire it for the ford green tops, and my factory injectors are too small since i have the gm reflash so the computer thinks i have 310's
im gonna borrow some ford 32lb injectors and see how it runs with them... if that doesn't do it then i dunno what to try
What do you have the injector conversion set at?
I have original set to 310cc and new set to 500cc.
Go into the AR Map and set all 4 corners to 20 and Interpolate.
Go into the Anti Stall and set the TP to 2%
Set the rpms from 200 to 800.
Set the Clamp Values from 2.00 to 1.00 and Interpolate.
Set your car on the lowest boost setting and take it for a run.
If your setup reacts anything like mine, you should see somewhere around 11.8 - 12.0 af at WOT.
Also, teh ES should catch it and your car should not stall at all, and if it tries to it will kick the idle back up and idle normal once again.
Try that and let me know what happens.
Sounds liek you are having the same issues as I was and after hooking up my buddys snap on scanner I noticed that my short term fuel trim was around -25ish.
With it set as above the short term is -2 - 0 which is MUCH better and the ECU is not trying to fight with the emanage so much as it was before which equals better idle, and improved drivability. Big difference.
Later,
Jeff
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2000 Turbocharged Silver Z24 5spd
Cardomain Site
awsome ill give that a try tommorow night, i think my injector conversion is at 310-440 right now but i was messing around and changing that alot trying to get it to run descent.
what does your a/f usualy sit at when your car is idling?
im just thinking i might have issues being that my car is an auto and it idles at about 650 were most 5 speeds idle at about 1000, but what you gave me is definatly a start, you got a few things set differnt than what i was trying so here's hoping it will work!
but ill let you know how that works tommorow
Thanks alot!!!!
heres the thing...as soon as it goes closed loop, the computer pulls 23 % fuel. Now.....why is it doing this? It shouldnt have to, because we have tried running a huge correction on the emanage, and still the same thing. As i said before...I'm thinkin the o2 MIGHT be NFG considering as soon as the car starts running off the o2, it dies...almost immediately. Anyone agree?
Bottom line is this shouldnt be a problem as the emanage should have no problem correcting for this, unless its because of the low idle on the autos, and the lower map voltage due to the large injectors. When we clamp the voltage @ 1.1-1.2...is does stay running somewhat...but far from healthy.
Thoughts....this is beyond frustrating.
yup we tryed running your settings Kane, same thing runs like crap as soon as it goes into closed loop, computer starts to pull 23% fuel, anti stall will keep it running but not good, and as soon as you try and tap the gas it will die, try and put it in drive and it surges and runs like crap...
Oh, one thing I forgot to add is on the AR Map, I have RPM set at 2000 - 6200.
Then I have the TP set at 35% - 100%
Try setting the ES clamp from 2.5 - 1.5 and see if that does anything.
Also, if you idle is that low, you want to set the ES RPM value smaller than the normal Idle RPM.
My car Idles anywhere from 850-900 so I set mine at 800. If you are idling at about 650, drop your max rpm down to 600 in the ES window.
Play with that a little and see if it does anything.
Let me know.
Later,
Jeff
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2000 Turbocharged Silver Z24 5spd
Cardomain Site
Not sure on the pre '00, but you add a wire into pin 10 on the factory ECU, on C1 if I remember right and it gives a full rpm signal. Forgot who found that out but I think it was Mr. Pute.
I get accurate RPM, never had a problem with it reading wrong.
Later,
Jeff
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2000 Turbocharged Silver Z24 5spd
Cardomain Site
i have a msd, it has a tach signal output on it...
i have the exact same problem as derek z24, it jus stalls out randomly and doesnt change the a/f ratio, its so wierd..soon as it heats up it does it....im running 370cc's and it does the same damn thing, should i make my conversion factor bigger er smaller er wat
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all 97-02's have the Pin 10 (black connector) tach output..... just not all are wired for it
97-99 have it ran to the under hood fuse panel.
I have no clue about the Emanage, but we do have 450cc injectors running on a stock 95 program.... base fuel of 30psi.
when you first start it, it idles fine, till it warms up...... then it goes up and down a few times..... and usually settles back out.
I'd throw in a new O2 sensor just to be safe, the primary isnt all that expensive (unless your using a wide band as the primary) and if you have a a/f gauge hooked to your stock O2, disconnect it.
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Derek Spencer wrote:i have the exact same problem as derek z24, it jus stalls out randomly and doesnt change the a/f ratio, its so wierd..soon as it heats up it does it....im running 370cc's and it does the same damn thing, should i make my conversion factor bigger er smaller er wat
i never did get the problem figured out, i ended up unpluging my o2 sensor and it runs awsome, put in a new o2 sensor and it still does the same thing so i just left it unpluged, with the emanage and wideband to tune it i realy don't need it pluged in anyway
which 02 sensor did you unplug? the first one or the 2nd one downstream
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