Your blades last longer and cut better when you oil your steel on the tracing you will be cutting, much like when you drill metal
I have been trying to get that pulley back to you for a while now. You seem to be impossible to track down.
PS - order me one of those idler pulleys aswell and let me know what it costs.
whats awesome is you're doing something totally custom and doing it all yourself. I respect that! But the question I have is with all this extra work, what do you expect to get out of this kind of setup on that motor?
Cant wait to see this thing running...Im curious as to the vibrations/heat effecting how everything is going to hold together, but Im sure it'll be longer than the blower itself might actually last
my other question is, are there rebuild kits still available for this if it does go out sooner than expected? but like i said, i cant wait to see a vid of this sucker running!
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
SweetnessGT wrote:While I have a migpak 140 I have converted it back to flux core due to not having a tank for the mig gas... I think it will still do the job it'll just be a bit harder to learn due to the heat... at least that's from what I understand?
Flux core is typically more difficult to work with, especially with cheaper welding setups... I would go price out a tank of argon/Co2 mix... you can buy a small one thats only about 2ft tall and about 3" round... You will be surprised how much easier it is to get a good looking weld thats functional.
Post some pics once you get started of your welds, I can help you get everything set right and tell you if your doing anything wrong. You can try the flux core, but I think you would be much happier renting a tank and getting some standard wire instead of the flux core.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
One thing I noticed nobody mentioned is with using your welder on 1/4" plate I'd put a bevel on the plate leaving roughly 1/8 not beveled. This way you can ensure your getting 100% pennetration and also make sure you place tack welds on either side of the plates in an alternating pattern to help keep everything in place.
JUCNBST wrote:One thing I noticed nobody mentioned is with using your welder on 1/4" plate I'd put a bevel on the plate leaving roughly 1/8 not beveled. This way you can ensure your getting 100% pennetration and also make sure you place tack welds on either side of the plates in an alternating pattern to help keep everything in place.
Good tip but it works better for butt welds... not so much for welds on an angle...
If your butt welding two plates together on the same plane definitely follow this suggestion... IF your doing a 90 or something like that, tack them together at the lower edges and fillett weld the gap.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
Some progress is better than none. looks good!
Chris, if you don't mind me asking, how many sq ft of the plate did you get and what was the price? PM me if you don't want others to know.
also, I'm quite excited to see how this thing turns out. quite the build you have there.
I need a new sig.
Couple things buddy. From the pics, it doesn't look like that is much of a gravity drain, how much of a slope is it on?
As for the rad, is it possible to have it on an angle like I had the oversized one in my sunfire? Or does the supercharger sit too high for that?
I will come by this week, I really wanna check it out.
Maybe you could try one of those Civic rads?
Darren - you'd be surprised but it's on a downward slope the whole way, I can possibly shorten the line an turn the banjo a bit to get a bit more of a slope but considering it's a trickle of oil going into the charger I know it isn't going to need much to drain. I didn't dare go too much lower on the pan with the fitting. You'll see when you see the setup.
Phil - I thought about that too. I came to find out that their rads are about 19" x 14" x 1"... that just seems SO small to me considering our stock rads are about 31.5" x 16" x 1".... I'm worried it won't be near enough cooling.
I looked around and I think I found a 26" x 16" x 2" aftermarket rad... or I could go with a 24" x 16" x 1.5" one I found... I'd have to pair that up with a slim fan but those are dirt cheap.
This goes against my "budget build" concept for this but it looks like it's really my only alternative. The biggest benefit to me is that I can now fit pipes around the rad without having to go around the frame rails which looks really important for the supercharger Intake. I'd been pondering for 6 months what I was going to do as the intake was going to run into the frame rail on one side and the rad fan on the other within 1" give or take. Problem solved. lol.
Oh and Darren - I can't just tilt the rad I have to move it all the way forward, the supercharger and pipes need the room. I measured and re-measured for 2 hours and there is no way around it. It took a few anger beers to calm me down. haha.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
My old motor = a @!#$ champ.
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
Also, I can't wait to here it ! / See it sexy man !
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
Short Hand, i thought you moved on to the civic crowd...traitor
......there were termites!
thats ok man just dont let those termites eat your current brackets.
I choose the technology built for land speed records... not the technology built to save on emissions and gas mileage.
I can bring a Co2 laser and we can burn those bastards!!
FU Tuning